gavin28

normal alkaline batteries should work fine, it sounds like its been left for a while. Make sure the battery tabs are clean in the transmitter and in the car, clean with sand paper, wire wool etc if corroded. Clean the tank and lines out with fresh nitro fuel, and i would clean the carb out too as its likely to be blocked with old gummed up fuel. I would also take the back plate off the engine and check the condition of the engine internals, if its been stood for a while without after-run oil in, then the bearings may be rusty, as will the crankshaft.. Edit: do what Noj said

when you say the water boils away, its meant to take about 3 to 5 secs to evaporate off the top of the head, it will boil if you put water on the glow plug. The engine should be around 110c to 130c, some engines like to be even hotter, i have a traxxas .15 pro that doesn't even wake up until it reaches 125c ish and runs at 140-150c when tuned correctly. If it's tuned correctly then you don't need to worry too much about heat as long as its not getting stupidly hot. If you are worried, just richen it up to cool it down.

do you mean these? There brand new, 1 pair removed from packaging for photo only. they cost

got a few mate, got a Hoboa one (same as hpi but had a charging port) Would come with good aerial too, not the one in pic. this is from a FTX Carnage RTR i believe Also got a couple of old Futaba stick ones, but they are well used lol, those you could have for postage cost. (

https://www.myhermes.co.uk/help/carry-guide.html You can but you get no compensation for damage

It shouldn't go to full throttle when the Rx batteries are low, the servo usually stays where it was was when the batteries fail, unless the fail safe kicks in. And 1.45v per cell shouldn't engage the fail safe either as NiMh batteries have a nominal voltage of 1.2v and you can usually use 4 of them without issue.. Also if you had the car pinned up against a wall, then that's the reason you stripped the spur gear, as when the engine rev'd up and engaged the clutch something had to give if the car wasn't allowed to move. In future if your breaking an engine in and want it to idle for the first tank, make sure the wheels are off the ground as the rev's will rise and fall. As for the engine screaming at high rev's, it could be a number of things, did the servo open the throttle or throttle open some how? if not it's either an air leak or fuel starvation.

I'm still on my first lot of 12 bottles of 25% VP fuel, great fuel at a cheap price, they were

RTV stands for room temperature vulcanization (silicone), Its not a brand you muppet

If the servo lays on its side, you will want something like this or this depending on the mounting holes in the chassis.

no, but they do get them, i got mine from the uk warehouse. The EU warehouse has cheap postage, i think its

HK3000 Cheapest (what roker99 has) HK3100 Smallest (what i had)

I've got either a wheel or stick type you can have for

I can recommend these, i have them on my 1/10 truck, they grip well on grass, tarmac, damp sand, and gravel. These are also good all-terrain tyres, but more for off-road. I wouldn't use them on-road as they look like they would wear out to quick.

Speed for throttle/brake, torque for steering.

All that's happened is the idle screw has been loosened to far, its just a case of lining it back up and adjusting the idle screw correctly. 2 minute fix.

Yes mate, standard 2.2" wheel size by the looks of it.

Glad it worked for you mate, i was pretty sure it would as it looks just like my old etronix controller which worked with both the hobbyking ones i linked to in the other topic.

I see what you mean, if it was me i would take the old o-ring or the crank down to my local DIY shop and the local Motor Factors to see if they could match one up. If that failed, depending on how the bearing sits on/next to it, i would try some RTV instead. Its the first engine I've seen with that o-ring, they are normally sealed by the front bearing having a rubber seal. I looks like that o-ring is to prevent an air leak between the crankshaft and the inner race of the front bearing, if that's the case, the gap should be almost non existent due to the close tolerance between bearing and crankshaft, so a touch of RTV would suffice.

nope, 0 off set means the hex is more or less in-line with the outer edge of the wheel, a 30mm off set would mean the hex is inboard by 30mm so the wheel would stick out 30mm more than a 0 offset wheel. (Photos linked are just random ones to give an example)

Yes mate, the Tx is a DX3S look-a-like. Its just a basic 2 channel one with trims for throttle and steering, that's it. Though it does feel nice in the hand. I''m happy with mine, considering what i paid. The only issue is that spares are from china, so if you ever got one, you may want to order some in advance or wait a couple of weeks for them to turn up. Parts are dirt cheap though. a complete diff is less than

yes, 12mm hex is standard on 1/10 scale, although truggys usually have off set wheels, so you would need to check that. Pins would be best for grass and the block patterns are usually best for dirt.

I've got a 1/18th scale WLToys A979, It takes a hammering and just comes back for more. The plastics are flexible, not brittle so not had anything break yet apart from cracked wheels (what do you expect when launching off skate ramps at top speed and landing on concrete ) and a couple of diff output drives (made of plastic on this truck) In total its cost

I've got that transmitter with my 1/18th WLtoys A979, the receiver is built into the ESC, not sure if you can buy a separate receiver or not. The transmitter is quite good, I've not had a problem with it. It feels better than the Txs you get with most RTR stuff. My kids and their friends use it more than me, from around aged 6 to 14, none of them have had trouble using it. Its smaller than my other Tx's, ranging from standard 27MHz HPI and Hoboa Tx's to Annsman W5 and Etronix 2.4GHz ones.

what o-rings? http://www.ofna.com/pdf/eng-force12s,15s.pdf due you mean the front rubber sealed bearing?

Do you mean this one? Most 1/8th cars have a built in filter in the tank, far better than that ebay one, that ebay one is not going to stop a grain of sand, so to me, its useless (well, worse than useless as it just creates another potential air leak) The only filter worth bothering with is a stone filter or similar (like the ones built into most tanks), these offer much better filtration. BTW it would work, but i wouldn't bother.