jari

Yes that is the place. About five minutes drive from me. But as Tug says... Really, really want it to be dry or the clay sticks to everything

if you have the time and space... set aside an hour and find a deserted car park. Make sure you really are happy with HSN setting. Make sure engine is up to temperature. then if happy with the HSN do the LSN tuning, but deliberately go far too rich on LSN. then work your way back down. Personally I had to deliberately find the end points of far too rich and far too lean LSN for them to be obvious enough for me to recognize it. No amount of reading on here or other sites was a substitute for an hour of experimenting with it in a methodical way. That way you will actually find the end point and see your engine go through them Tuning guide has a description on how to do it it is something like full throttle passes to make sure you are full on using the HSN setting, bring it to a stop to idle for a few seconds (5 or 10 if I remember right), then wide open throttle start. When it is obviously too rich it will just get boggy and then stall, that is if it will even keep idling. When very rich crank case loads up with fuel and it won't idle properly. But that is a good thing-... it means you have gone through to a too rich hsn. then work your way back in 1/16th turn changes. same drill, wide open throttle passes followed by the stand still for a few seconds, then full take off again. as you start getting leaner and leaner the idle will get better and the pick and power better. as you get too lean you will then see the other symptoms. perhaps revs rising as the engine is too lean.

yes, 32mm is near enough. should be 31.25mm. see fourth post down http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/179643-24ghz-rx-aerial-fix-or-replacement-question/?p=1837974 and another site post: http://www.socal-rc.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7178 so a nick or damage to the tube near the rx board rather than at the end could well affect reception. Never tried or researched it though.

Update: Tried the same car today with different batteries and different gearing. Batteries used: 3S - Turnigy 5000mah 40C over 12 months old 4S - Turnigy 5600mah 60C - new, 5S - Dynamic 4500mAh 30C - over 12 months old. Gearing used: in order 18T 15T 20T Testing done on tarmac. on rather inappropriate hobao spike tyres. I did one run on grass nearby and it did not seem to affect the measurements, i.e. it was no higher than the road so I stuck with the road. 18T test was first. figures are for Peak Amps and peak Watts. I did take some minimum voltage readings and voltage. 3S start: 12.4V, 86A / 981W 4S start 16.7V 86A / 1342W 5S stat 20.8V, 18.3V min. 103A / 1924W verdict. 5S is mental. was trying to lift the front tyres on the tarmac. Stopped and changed pinion to 15T 3S 75A / 900 W 4S 77A / 1192W 15.2Vmin 5S 88A / 1685W 18.4Vm verdict: not sure. 5S manageable here. 4S still quite fun. Stopped and changed pinion to 20T 3S 82A / 909W 4S - ran out of time. did not do. 5S start: 19.9V - voltage drop reflected in power reading below. 103A / 1880W will work out theoretical speeds later.

Twin mgm and twin 2028 is two big ESC a d two big motor. If you can mount twin motor why not twin hobbywing 150A and twin truggy motors? And then just use 5S and 6S? Easily enough power in combined motors. Anyone tried this approach?

You want to go in from the top. They can be a little difficult to unscrew the shock cap. The trick is having a good grip on the shock body, having removed the spring... Then using iers or spanner to unscrew the cap

never mind the racing... I need that workshop at the end!

thought this thread had died.... thats why I didnt ask a mod to close. All pinions sold, paid for and sent.

I have a maverick strada xb evo roller in good condition. Could add servo and radio gear. You would just need to sort ESC and motor. If interested I can get pictures.

Thunder tiger spring rates from the manual: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/404183/Thunder-Tiger-Mta4.html?page=15 I still don't know how to understand spring rates though.

thanks. I think it feels a bit like a grown up version of technical lego. a properly machined engine with shiny moving parts, that you can actually take apart clean and put back together again. vs a brushless motor that you can , erm, errr. erm ... solder new connectors on? what else?

We talking ugly women or used engines? if used engines... I have two recent ones that I want to show a bit of respect to and try to get the best of. a REDS R5T, a Novarossi R21 and a Bullitt 216. There are a few others, but those are the race pedigree ones.

@tamiya good advice thanks. especially about the storing of engines in bags. I guess a ziplock bag keeps them sealed - so there is a finite amount of water in that bag. Looks like I need a clean work bench and time to have a go at one of them. There will have to be pictures of course... and @ sean-vrs... used nitro motors like ugly women... fine... but much like them, the high spec used motors don't half go well while they last... and I cannot afford a new beautiful one of either and to stretch it further... by training on the ugly one I will be better placed to look after the new one better..

Too late

Buyer beware indeed...

well I bought an engine heater recently for this very reason. Take apart and do what? Take fully apart? or just swish some fuel through? or take piston, liner, crank, etc out?

As the topic says... I have a few recent additions - blame the inner magpie - a few different nitro buggy engines. Some of these have come to me with a more trustworthy / known pedigree than others. e.g. some are old and feel they have poor compression. Others I struggle to turn the crank over cold and feel and look great. Don't want to c$

your posts here have tempted me to get one... just seems really, really useful when setting up. to know how close to various limits you are, and as a second data point alongside motor temps. have you measured the 58110 on 6S, 7S and 8S? 113 amps is 3.6kw. so in theory... you could get close to that power with two of the small 4 pole motors running in parallel?

spit on the head is not useful for tuning the S50. if you are measuring temperatures to try and understand what is going on, then you need to measure the temperature. for that you need a digital thermometer. otherwise you need to tune by the sound of the engine. also... these engines are known for running hotter than others when they are tuned.

I love the fact that you are doing this build for your mum +100 right here... Using your knowledge from this hobby to make something better. What are the goals of the project? Is it purely the weight of the scooter? or also battery life etc? how will you deal with charging of the lipos when in place? now... did she come back asking for more power and wanting to leave little black 11's in the shop? you have been warned, you know how addictive the search for speed or power can be...

1.25 is way too low on the low speed needle. Where are you measuring it from? I reckon about 5. Manual states 6.5.

what about the hobbyking one? they are

Got a new toy from Hobbyking - one of the 130A watt meters. For use in car to take measurements like peak Amps, Amp hours, Watt hours etc....I have always wondered exactly what the electrics are doing in my cars. now I can find out. I wonder just how much we overspec our electrics... The device connects in line between battery and ESC. first for measurement is the newly converted Hyper 7. motor: 1900kv hobbyking4 pole - the cheap one ESC - Hobbyking 150A Lipo: 5000mah 60C hardcase pack. Car: hyper 7 converted. not sure of weight tyres: hobao angle spikes. surface - tarmac then short grass. pinion : 18t gearing should be good for 40+ ish. (ignoring all losses) So...what prediction would you make for peak amps? What ESC is small enough to run this system on 4S? Figures: Peak Amps: 87 Peak Watts: 1448 Runtime: 13 minutes or 780 seconds. Minimum voltage - 5.98 - now this is a bit worrying! Watt hours - 50.5 Amp hours - 3.3 So in my opinion what does this all mean? Peak amps - 87... is perhaps about what I'd expect. Maybe seems low for the speed. HK peak amps is listed as 120. this is way off. Have to try the motor on 5S or under more load. Peak watts - 1448 or 1.5kW, approximately 2 horse power. From a

Too late. ESC and motor bought paid for and received. Savox sent today. Only roller and spares remain.

Is anyone else spotting the irony that this topic is now on page 4?