jari

what is the current one? Programming ESC without a program card is doable, just ... archaic and not particularly clear often what you have done. which model? can you just program using the TX? Does it have a factory reset if you mess it up?

One has to hope the owners never restart working that quarry. That would be a disaster

And at a particular Herts location with a proper hill... Can supply bags to carry their cars home in? I wonder how the PMT would cope actually? 2wd Baja's need a bit of run up and good throttle control

an mcd is not on the cards for me. too many other toys, too little time to fix them. looked good though

if you do come over... let me know when with more than a day notice. that very short bash cost me a broken drive cup on the marder. and nothing at all broken on the brushless 7 . have you seen the quick jump vid?

i have bent many rear shock towers ... flipping it and landing backwards . wing helps a lot. once they get rolling they cartwheel really well... especially with springy t-bones on the front and rear

nice thanks for doing the video. last jump perhaps the best/biggest. no speed at all needed either. amazingly... no breakages on the hyper. popped a shock off (repaired in field) and popped a drive shaft out of cup (repaired at home). marder not so lucky might actually need to clean it now... Definitley not a field is it Good to meet you for first time and put face/name to forum name. I liked the MCD. Looked great fun. what are parts like for it?

looks like buggy wheels and tyres? What hex did you find to fit those? standard hex are 12mm

Incorrect advice. Most people charge lipos at "1C" which is NOT the same as 1 amp. if you have a 7.6Ah battery, 1C is 7.6 amps. have a search for charger recommendation. there was a thread recently. need to know budget of course.

The S50 really are quite big aren't they? That is the XL version of a savage? And still not as big as the S50

here you go. If in doubt head to a flyer forum. They always seem to have better answers to electrical question imho. I guess the cost of failure is pretty high with a plane... so you want to understand what you are doing more. Do you have access to a power drill? if so you can use it to test the motor. http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35216 an old post but full of good advice. I have done the third test in the first post by hand without a drill to diagnose a dead phase in a motor.

ahhh. well then that makes it trickier...! Ammeter? you could measure resistance ? There is a way of telling if a phase is dead on a motor but I can't remember how. let me see how strong my google-fu is.

I had exactly the same symptoms from a turnigy buggy motor. it survived about 60 seconds of use... and then displayed this sort of "stuttering" fault. 3 phase motor is just a paperweight with only 2 phases working. is it possible to "lose a phase" from the ESC? diagnosis should be easy enough. try the ESC with another brushless motor, try the motor with another ESC. do that out of the truck. doesn't matter what amp rating the esc is - there will be no load on the motor and so very little current.

Ditto. Quarry is dry on the hill and base of hill. Bottom bit still a bit damp.

And the combination of FPV, smoking, hot and spanky (close enough to spank or spanking I guess) leads to some "interesting" following video suggestion from YouTube...

the thunder tiger eb4 g3 that was in the for sale would have been a good buy too. what about the losi 3 that is there?

copper. believe it goes copper, red, gold, blue

or 12.99 on modelsport and in stock: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/thunder-tiger-ali-shock-caps-4-/rc-car-products/24806 I got away with just four on mine rather than replace all eight. put them all on the front as they were the ones that kept going.

Good finds. I remember paying much less for the caps than 20 per 4. Another alternative is truggy big bores single shock each corner. Maz on here did it

that's not quite right either. a brushless motor will only get to max rpm when it is under no load. and if under no load by definition it is not doing any work . I found this an excellent read, and no equations: http://www.ateamboatyard.co.uk/understanding-brushless-motors/ can use this to work out the heat output from my tests: motor is rated at 7.4 milli Ohm resistance 5S at 15T was 88A. - 57W lost as heat. (88 * 88 * 0.0074) 5S at 18T was 103A - 78W lost as heat (103*103 * 0.0074) If I could get it to draw the theoretical max 120A then that gives 106W heat. Quite a difference isn't there? Its the difference in heat output between an old fashioned 60W bulb versus 100W. of course those are peak numbers not continuous like the plane or heli flyers.

Why do you want to change the existing ones?

thanks. no idea what the peak watt is for the turnigy 4 pole. They don't quote a value for it on the hobbyking site. I can only assume it is 120A x 5S. which is close enough to your 2200W figure. peak watt figures can't be the unloaded value can they? the motor will require very little current at all when unloaded. I thought the kV values were unloaded? My peak measurements are purely for that buggy. So that set of motor, ESC and weight. Maybe I should strap a 1kg bag of sugar to it and see what the measurements are then... or try it with different tyres.

I recently bought myself a watt meter to be able to measure current draw and peak power. I've taken readings on a hyper 7 using 15, 18 and 20T pinions, running 3S, 4S and 5S. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/205298-watt-meter-measurements-hyper-7-3-5s-151820t/ results need a bit of time to digest. Same gearing, same motor and current draw (and hence power) increases with voltage. I suppose peak watt numbers for motors must be from their max voltage. The turnigy I tested lists a peak amps of 120A. I got nowhere near there. I measured peak of: 3S 86A 4S 86A 5S 103A I don't know how much battery choice acted as a constraint.

Double post from me... And it really needs eighth scale or more. Bit of a car killer for tenth scale. If we could only drain the rutted bit at the bottom of the hill you would open up loads more to jumps and play. Hmmm. Might have to take a look. See if a bit of light geoengineering will work...

Of course if I were really plan ing ahead I should get up there with a spade now. It will be wet enough to work and form jumps, take the edge off some bits. When it is dry there is no chance of working it.