DeadMeatUK
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Everything posted by DeadMeatUK
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Ignore most of my post then I think a 0235 would work very well in a Baja
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Losi 5ive, The 0236 will work but IMO it's too slow, you will definitely notice the lack of response coming from 1/8th scale. Whatever you choose, you should run a 2s Lipo... What servo is it running at the moment? Check the servo saver because they are often way too loose to turn the wheels under power?
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Edited the title to include Savox servos
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You can you any extension wire if you need to and moving the battery plug to the bind socket it normal practice and safe. To remove a damaged screw I would hammer the head with a ball pain hammer to close up the hex and loosen the threads then hammer in the Allen key and undo, you might be able to twist the engine in the opposite direction instead of turning the screw?
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Still looking for any unwanted and broken losi steering servos, I am widening my search to include the Savox 0235/0236 servos as well
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If you have a built in one then that is best. Why add extra connections that can come loose if it can be avoided!
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Opinions vary... I believe they don't need much running in, I make sure it's not lean and take it slow for the first tank. I don't believe in idling for long periods with a ringed engine as the increased cylinder pressure from gentle running helps bed the ring in better. The second tank (or second half of the first tank) I drive harder but avoid maximum rpm for more than a few seconds at a time
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Is it the servo or servo saver? As to me sounds like the saver is too weak? To check put it on the ground and operate the steering and look at the servo arm, is it moving almost as much as it does when the wheels are off the ground?
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Looking for a cheep stock Losi S900S or Savox 0235/0236 steering servo to do a dual servo mod. It can be working or Broken in any way as long as the price reflects condition.
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I have already posted once but can't stress enough how easy and quick it is with Tapatalk I tend to use the full site on google chrome and and switch to Tapatalk when I want to load a picture or attach a link. I have photo bucket but it's very slow and you still have to copy and paste links
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I don't know if there is a right way? My heat gun is very powerful and melted an exhaust spring once. I move it from one side (directed half on the head and half on the block) to the top and to the other side, about 5 seconds in each area. After 4-8 passes I prime the fuel, open the throttle an extra 1mm and start
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Unsure if you'll get enough heat from a hair dryer? I use a heat gun whenever I can, my boys Hyper7 starts within a couple of pulls hot compared to having to have a rest when trying to start it cold!
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Heat does help start the car as the piston and liner are different materials, they expand at different rates so heat loosens it up and also ignights the fuel much easier
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Love it, I've never seen anything edited like that before -
Feeling honored to have heard two sonic booms over Yaxley today
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All of my RCs are solar powered! I have a 3Kw PV system on the roof of my house which I use to charge my leisure battery, which in turn charges all my RC batteries. There for I indirectly power all my electric RCs with solar, which is also free
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I haven't touched 1/10th since getting into 1/8th, it has nothing to do with speed as they go as fast as you can afford. Problem now is my 1/8th do get much use due to getting into 1/5th! Down side to that is I don't use it so much as the 1/5th requires taking it away from built up areas
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What you want is a clutch carrier
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If the Tx coax aerial is damaged you can replace it using a soldering iron, either by buying new or cutting the wire off an old wireless device like a router, laptop or computer? I did two Flysky Rx's yesterday using the antenna from an old laptop.
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Have you got 40mm of the inner core exposed? The Rx has a coax cable
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Loving the good weather, I haven't used any gas or electricity for 10 days thanks to solar panels
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I'm currently using one of them, it's a good piece of kit. I wouldn't worry too much about the amps as I fried a 160A Turnigy while this one has been flawless. Note 4s max! Mine is powering an E-Revo motor in a heavy 1/8th Ansmann truggy with monster truck wheels and tall gearing and only the motor struggles with temps, ESC is cool as a long green thing that I always throw away because it goes soft and mouldy before it gets eaten!
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The black balance wire was connected to the same terminal as the black main wire. If you don't want to open it up you could strip the main black wire a little and solder the black balance wire directly to it near the battery
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I did one yesterday, used masking tape. I covered the whole window area overlapping the body then with a knife cut around the window and peeled off the excess tape to leave a nice edge. Then firmly press down on the tape to ensure the paint can't get under the overlapped layer by the edge Simples.....
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Don't go too big though, your fuel bill will be silly and 6-8min tanks are no fun:( the force .32 is as big as I would go, I have a force .28 which I've ported myself and it is very strong as I've got all the torque you would expect from a .28 and good rpm due to the porting
