OldVWMK1

I will look into one for payday. Thanks for the advice.

I dont own a metre and i dont own a lvc. This is the first lipo battery i have owned and it has stumped me straight away lol. As far as i was aware it was plug and charge. Awesome suggestion thank you. Ive just read about the 3v thing with these batteries. It would be really nice if this is the problem as im having a nightmare trying to start my wr8, and i was hoping a warmer engine would solve the issue. I tried sticking the car by the heater for an hour and it almost caught once, but its minus 2 outside and the engine got cold really quick.

Hi, i recently bought a lipo battery to run my engine heater, with it i also needed to buy a lipo charger. I bought the Absima CB-1S, it is a multi charger and ive used it to charge my glow plug and nimh batteries successfully. However when i plug the lipo (a Floureon 2200mah 11.1v 25c) into it and set the program up it just flashes red lights at me and wont start charging. Does anyone know of any reason it wont charge? Thanks

I mainly play two games these days on my pc, Sins of a Solar Empire Rebellion, an awesome space strategy game that takes up far too many hours Star Wars The Old Republic - SWTOR, an online mmo that beats all other online games imo, many people call me wrong but i love Star Wars and gaming and this hits the spot.

Ive ordered a new one way bearing and a new pullstart as im going to stop using my rotostart to try and lengthen the life of the owb. The pictures i have seen of the owb's show a little bit of grease in them, as i have nothing to lose im going to try and clean the one i have now and put a little grease in there, if it works great, if not, oh well! If anyone does have some tips for me they would be really appreciated as i was hoping to go out with it tomorrow.

Thanks for the reply guys! Appreciated. I cant believe i didnt see that the back plate was in the wrong position!! What an idiot lol! I was so sure that was how it was on before i first took it off, but thats no excuse because i was looking at pictures online and reading the manual and didnt pick it up. As for it not feeling quite right, it was just something i was feeling through my fingers, im guessing the pin wasnt sitting right in the hole or perhaps i had taken some of the oil off the back plate and the pin was sliding and then catching, i dont know but that has gone now thankfully. My new problem is the one way bearing. Its not working, strangely it was one minute and now its not. It was full of a black oily substance and was leaving residue on the shaft it sits on, it would just spin clockwise and when i turned it anti clockwise it would spin but a little bit of resistance and a click would follow. I tried to clean it out with a bit of wd40 and a rag but to no use, it wont turn the engine at all, and now one of the rollers falls out when ever i take it off the shaft. Whats the general consensus? Some people from the research online suggest buying a new one way bearing and the part it sits on, i dont think i need to do this as it looks brand new with no signs of wearing. If possible i would like to fix this bearing as again it seems relatively new, and the guy i bought the truck off said he had run it in and barely used it. Has anyone here fixed one?

Hi guys, The last two days i have been quite productive with my truggy. I have stripped all the electrics and given the truck a wash and then a blast with a compressor and now its drying completely in front of the fire. The main job i had to do tho is remove the broken back plate\cover plate for the engine and fit the new one which didnt quite fit. As you can see in the pic, with the holes lined up the plate doesnt fit So i filed this down and thats all sorted now. Whilst fiddling with the engine on the kitchen table, this little fella fell out.... now im guessing it fits in the hole at the bottom of the piston rod and sticks out and slots into the groove of the thing that the starters use. (really sorry for the lack of technical knowledge! im learning slowly lol) Could somebody just confirm whether or not i have this right. It does fit in the hole, but it doesnt feel right when i put it all back together again. Also something ive never thought to check before. What way does the engine turn when its started? Apart from the above, everything has gone well. I have fitted thinner black springs to my three shoe clutch. I found the gold to be too heavy and the clutch wouldnt engage until high revs. Before i took the cover plate off i took Deafty's advice and checked the compression by seeing if the engine could hold its own weight and yes it can All this muck has gone I will post some pics of it looking all clean again later on.

Ah ok, i wasnt sure. Thanks

Lol i hate searching for lost screws, washers and other bits in long grass or quarrys! Carparks are not to bad to find bits in but can be a bit boring. What oil or grease do you guys use when you put your car back together? I have a little tub of grease from modelsport, should i use that on the axle bits when i put them back together?

Gutted for you! Thats the one thing i hate about this hobby, how tempermental the truck is. When everything goes well tho, its awesome.

Cheers for the reply Deafty I really appreciate the help I seem to have everything sorted in my mind now, im just waiting on some parts. Ive ordered the cover plate, a savox sc1256, some m2 and m3 hex screws (12.9), some hex drivers, some blue thread lock, a 11v lipo battery and the cheaper engine heater that runs off the lipo which i think is an awesome idea Ive tried the whole start the car at home, get it up to temp, turn it off and put a sock on the engine until you get to your bashing ground but that doesnt work when its sometimes 30-40 mins away. Ok, now onto the questions, I will find out about the engine for you as soon as i take it off. Ive been too busy today, I may get around to it tonight or it will be tomorrow. The pipe is a Jammin jp3 i installed last year with the byron race airfilter, at the same time i fitted a 3 shoe clutch, not long after the cover plate broke and i gave up on it

Ok, so got it down tonight off the top of my wardrobe. The previous owner i dont believe used thread lock on it after he cleaned it (possibly before i bought it), because i was losing screws all over the place when i was running it. My plan is to take it apart, clean it, and threadlock all the screws. But first i would like to know what thread lock i should use as there are different colours, is there a big difference between red and blue or can i just use one for everything? Is the cover plate i need for the trophy truggy 4.6 this (part number 1426, im using an online manual and not sure) - http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-cover-plate/rc-car-products/24958 All my tools are down in the garage at the moment and its raining so if i could pick someones brain it would save me running down and disassembling things tonight to compare with the picture. Also i found a screw that holds the engine down missing, im guessing it fell out during my ownership, but it looks to me that a different engine may have at one time been used on this truck, as the mount the engine sits on has other screw holes and they look used. Is this the engine its supposed to have? I own hpi screw set B http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-screw-set-b/rc-car-products/36265 Will this contain the screw neccessary to replace the engine mounting one thats missing? I cant find reference to the set i need. I would really appreciate any help i can get as im new to this and mechanics of any form is not in my skill set, but i really want to learn and get this sorted! Thanks

Very good build thread, youve given me a desire to build my own

Hi all, i bought my nitro truggy 4.6 second hand quite a while ago and never got it running satisfactorily. It has done my head in. I could get it going but it wouldnt run for long and then i would try to tune it and it wouldnt run at all. This is despite reading every guide and watching every youtube video. Eventually the pull start stopped working so i bought a roto start. Then the truck wouldnt start and the back plate the roto and pull start fit onto broke. Anyway the truck has sat on top of my wardrobe for a long time and i think its about time to dust it off. (looks at the weather and wonders why???) I just thought it would say hi and post some progress reports as and when i get stuff done. Oh, if this doesnt get sorted, i think ill try 1:5 petrol

Looked at it from across the room....... sighed.... and looked away.

Ahhhh dude! That sucks!!!! I feel your pain, every time I think I have a problem sorted, either a new one pops up or it stays exactly the same. My 1/10 nitro car breaks bumpers and body posts all the time but has been sound as a pound engine and running gear wise, i just lean or richen it a little depending on the temp outside and away i go. The truggy I hope will get like that one day once ive found the basic settings.

?? Ok, I've had to keep swapping between roto and pull start recently and never noticed it. I've got to take my roto off again today so will check it out. The next step I would take if I were you would be to either contact your local hobby shop or contact hpi themselves, either of those should know. Sorry I can't help out anymore, if you do find out post it up here as I would be interested to find out.

Hi Afiso, In the book that came with mine it doesnt show a o-ring on the outside of the back plate, the bit you can see in your pic. However it does show one on the inside between the starting shaft (part number 1432) and the backplate (part number 1426), the part number for this o-ring is 1425. Hope this helps.

I believe i did what you suggested Deafty, set the tx setting to 0, i took the throttle linkage off (the ball cup), tested where the carb went too, adjusted the idle setting so it was open about a mm or 1.5mm when closed. Put the linkage back on and turned the rx and tx on, saw where the carb sat when settings at neutral ( it was nearly half open) so turned it all off and adjusted the throttle servo (took the linkage off and moved it about one groove towards the carb) so it was resting at closed when electrics are on. Took it outside and started it, was running in circles in the yard to warm it up and had to brake and it died, slightly adjusted the idle screw again, put the roto start on it and it turned it over a few times and then the roto started freely spinning in the box thing on the backplate! GRRRRR lol! It's getting too dark now so will investigate tomorrow. If it wasn't so hard to access I would of quickly swapped out the roto start for the pull start or checked the one way bearing. I can't wait till I get to use it for the full day or evening without something going wrong! Never mind, I spose it's all part of the hobby and the fun when you finally get it right!

Aha i got you! Ok, I'm looking at it now, I will report back later on. Thankyou very much!

Cheers for the advice guys! Mydoddy, your advice does sound fun, however I will keep it to a last resort when making myself feel better is the cause of the day! I've got a few jobs around the house to do then I will put the idle needle flush again and start with your suggestion Deafty. Hope your all enjoying the weather

Hi all, Got a second hand truggy towards the end of last year and with a combination of frustration (bad tuning by me i think, although my 1/10 does'nt have half the tuning issues this does), wet weather and the cold it didnt get used much. Now with the warmer weather here i decided to treat it to a Hong nor 3 shoe clutch, hpi tf-40 set, a jammin jp3 pipe, os 8 plugs, and put my learning hat on regards the tuning. I also put the needles back flush to factory spec. I have got it running, warmed it up and leaned it gradually to about a full turn, ive also had to put the idle screw in a few 8ths to stop it dieing when i apply the brakes. Its not tuned spot on but it seems to me to be kinda close. My problem now is that i can put the body on and the tuning goes all out of wack? I give it throttle and it dies. The body has half the windscreen missing and a side window missing for air flow, the only thing i can see being a problem is the holes are on the left and the byron dual air intake filter is on the right but surely it shouldnt make that much difference? I have read a load of tuning guides and get the theory but struggle with applying it, i was very impressed with my efforts fitting the clutch and fixing the rotostart (the one that came with the truck had sheared cogs which i replaced from another one i had which didnt fit the back plate) , but did break a corner off the back plate when i put a new slightly too big hex screw in as the old one fell out on a run Tomorrow i am going to cut the right hand side window out but thought i would see if anyone here has any pearls of wisdom they could throw my way. Cheers guys!

Hi guys. The engine strip down didnt go too badly as i didnt start it lol, i cleaned up the mess i had made by running it the day before and checked over stuff i know needed looking at, threadlocking certain screws lol but didnt actually take the engine to bits. From youtube vids and forum articles i think the compression is fine and there are no symptoms of dirt in there. I ran it for 1 tank the other night and it skipped over a molehill and started cartwheeling it was quite spectacular to be honest, it just kept on and on and on! Thankfully the only thing to break or come off was the rear wing, the bolts holding it on are still attached to the car but the spoiler somehow came off. It doesnt look broken so ill just get some washers or something and reattach it Ive got a couple of days off now so im hoping the weather will hold out and let me spend some time outside!

Thats got a nice looking stance!

Ahhhh excellent stuff!! Nice 1 guys!! I've landed on my feet with you lot cheers!! And that tuning guide is awesome!!