n_d_fox

Popped down the post office to collect a parcel this morning Got caught out for import tax again but overall still a saving and i couldn't find a UK or European seller for these anyway. Fitting them now

hahaha... i just realised that i also added the decals on the bonnet and the mud

Thanks to Big Gaz... parts arrived on Saturday morning Spot the difference :D Cheers, Nige

My knight in shining..... orange Cheers buddy

Haha... cheers Gaz... send me a PM with some details and what you want for them

I always find that shadow stock with wheelspin means that they dont have stock and its ordered from their supplier. They will tell you shadow means its in "their warehouse" but outside of their shop in Cannock i dont believe they have another location. No worries though, at least you know you have them on the way

I'm looking for an AX80045b light cover - the grilled covers for the smaller spot in the honcho front bumper. Seen here without them in place According to the manual the part number is as above but a search throws up the whole part tree for the light buckets... anyone got any spare grills they would like to donate / sell me ? Thanks, Nige

I was surprised at the cost of some of the parts trees too... a lot of the time its cheaper to buy upgrade parts ! Anyway... http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/66623/ http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_product.php?menu=rc_crawling&range=SURFACE&productId=0000005000&galleryImage=1#G HTH, Nige

Lots of builds on these over on the US based forums... have a dig about on the usual places, i'm sure you'll find some inspiration and useful ideas. The guys here have pretty much covered it though with what you will need and roughly how to do it.

Thanks for the tip Gaz... the topcad shafts i am running have a thicker "collar" on them than the stock shafts so i have been able to butt them right up to the bearing to take out the movement. i might put a shim or the o ring between them though to stop wear on the bearing casing - i went with rubber sealed bearings all round so i don't want the shaft to rub against the seal.

Decided the ride height at maximum was too high so ive dropped it down to the 3rd hole on the risers... its looking much better now, you can tell its jacked but it doesn't look like its trying to leave its wheels behind Good news is there is no binding with the servo still. I did notice during some testing round the house that the rear wheels seemed to be stuttering a little under part throttle... remember me saying i had to man handle the old drive off with a drill and brute force? i did initially think i had damaged the bevel gears as a result so i whipped the rear axle off and opened it up to have a look. I couldn't see any damage at all, so just stripped, cleaned, added some aqua grease over everything and put it all back together. I also swapped in new bearings on the output shaft. There was still a tiny bit of play (in and out) on the shaft so when i refitted the drive shaft i made sure it was as snug as possible up onto the shaft, there is zero play there now and things are nice and smooth. So... now i'm just waiting for the rain to stop to get out with it... typical weather ! Cheers, Nige

Get your drift Gaz, I'll try it and see how I get on. MiniZ - at the mo the front top links are still the stock plastic Y link but I get what you mean Thanks, Nige

Since fitting the new servo etc i was getting a small amount of binding on the chassis at almost full articulation. This was only on the one side and i had tried to move the servo over as much as i could but it didnt really make any difference. I couldnt work out what was going on, the servo was the same size as the stock one, it was fitted exactly the same but from one to the other, binding... Anyway, having a think about a way around this i came across the idea of lifting the chassis a little to increase the clearance from the servo to the chassis... i picked up a lift kit from RadShape on my way home from work yesterday. Fitting was very straight forward as you would expect, i've gone with them at full length for the moment, this has completely removed the binding problem and has increased the articulation due to the added height / clearance. I'm not 100% sure if the height is a little too much now or not... i might drop it to the 2nd or 3rd hole on the risers. I've also installed some 3mm LEDs into the bumper spot lights. These have been wired into the cable that feeds the lights on the roof rack. Side shot to see the ride height... thoughts? It does look high on that pic actually... Thanks, Nige

If it is completely unused and you still have the box etc you will probably get close to if not what you paid for the kit new on eBay, the SCX10 kits tend to sell really well.

Nice pics dude, looks like a cool place for trail rigs

Cheers mate... as much as i like the scale side of things there is a limit to my bodywork / fabrication skills and keeping the truck affordable and fully usable (to my mind) so this is about where i got to with it.. ideally it would have a slightly lower bed in the rear but i wasnt about to start chopping it up. I did think about trying to incorporate the honchos rear end / cage into it but the dimensions were out and it wouldnt have worked without being very creative and chopping into things a lot. Again, my limited skills and above all patience limited where i went with it. Cheers, Nige

I'll ping him a IM and see what he says, thanks for the heads up mate... and yes, next Radshape open day we'll plan to hook up down there... i caught the tail end of the last one but didnt take my truck with me... next time i will and get some time on their mountain stage

I believe the coating on these is bed liner for pick up trucks... not sure if you can get it over here easily or not but from what i read about these shells, its painted on the inside and outside of the shell to give it a complete covering. I'm not saying the price isn't worth paying but I am saying you might be able to replicate this easier than you think.

and yet if you can get into their shop they are some of the most helpful guys i have had the pleasure to deal with... maybe their eBay shop and online service is managed separately i don't know but i couldn't rate them from my experiences enough. i do agree though that they often show stock on the website and dont have it... they do a lot of parts through CML Distribution so local (Bromsgrove) but its not ideal if you take the time to drive over to them expecting it to be there. i'm sure they would be mortified to know people were getting a poor service from them though.

Thanks Gaz... Initial view is that its a nice piece of kit... certainly very small and compact. It has a rubber seal around the upper and lower case and is advertised as being water resistant, so lets say its splash proof... i certainly wont be impersonating a submarine with it anytime soon so that's good enough for me. Around the house at low speed it seemed nice and smooth, as i said, the drag brake needs increasing a touch but looking at the papers that came with it, that's an easy adjustment to make. I just need to get it out and about now to see how it runs... if you know of any meets or anything happening let me know. Its ok running solo but its more fun when there's a few of you Cheers, Nige

You've basically been through the exact same process as i did around 3-4 months ago... bounced between the SCX10 and Wraith, almost got a Poison Spyder then found a SCX10 (Honcho) fairly local for a good price and jumped on it. I also have a Slash which is used for the fast / daft stuff so wanted something to trail, crawl and do the semi scale thing with. For that the SCX10 is perfect. I've had a couple of hour or so long walks with the kids out over the nature reserve close by with it and its a real fun time while also being something you can do with the family at the same time as getting some fresh air !... then there's the more club based competitive side of it which i haven't got into yet. You'll have fun but trust me, it wont be long before you're looking at upgrades... not because the SCX10 needs them out of the box (its a competent rig)... just because you can... you know what its like Cheers, Nige Edit: - and this thread is useless without pics

Thanks for the replies guys... i actually read through the instructions, took a deep breath and went for it with the soldering iron etc yesterday evening. I've plumbed the BEC into ch3 and the lights into batt as they were before. I also isolated the positive wire from the ESC to the receiver (as per the instructions on the BEC). I've tried to make the wiring as tidy as possible but at the same time trying to keep signal and power separated as much as possible. The power switches up front are for the ESC and the BEC, the BEC is wired into the battery connector with the ESC power cables then wrapped with insulation tape to keep the tidy. The Novak Eiger ESCs are now brushless capable, hence the extra orange cable which has been tied to the others to keep it out of the way. I didnt end up using the additional power cap due to having no free channels on the receiver. I figured the BEC would cover the same duties anyway. Initial testing round the lounge and dining room proved successful, everything works as expected. I do need to check the drag brake setting though, its a little on the relaxed side so i dont think will make for good ascent control, easy job though. One thing that did happen... 3 runs round the lounge and the grub screws for the drive shafts were loose... bit of lock tight and a good tighten has sorted them. I did forget to lock tight them when i installed them though... Only parts waiting now are a STRC alu Y link for the front upper links so i can get the plastic stock item swapped out for homemade links. AsiaTees are sending me a left c-hub so i can fit them (they sent me 2 right sides originally, although i think this was a mis packaged item from TopCad themselves). Oh and i have ordered a set of Pit Bull Rock Beasts That's it done then... although with the new ESC there is always scope for a future look at a brushless motor if i ever get the urge Thanks, Nige

Thought i'd share a couple of pics of the new shell in place... while im trying to work out how best to install the combo inc the BEC... Thanks, Nige

I've spent a bit of time tonight fitting some of the parts. Got the new servo installed and got the stock ESC stripped out. The receiver is a stock Axial unit. Aside from the servo and ESC channels on the receiver there is a ch3 and batt socket. At the moment the lights are poeered from the batt connection. Is it better to run the BEC off this one ? How will I then run the lights ? Thanks, Nige

Thanks for the ongoing "support" Gaz I'll have a look through it later, i'm going to get all the parts installed on the chassis and get the old ESC and motor removed first, then work out where i want everything to go... The Eiger Pro is tiny, much smaller than i was expecting (like half the size)... so it will go pretty much anywhere...lol So, use the power cap, check What about the BEC ?