n_d_fox

Replace the plastic top links with alu ones, either Axial or homemade... if it hasnt already as part of the kit an alu steering link is a good move to. There are a bomb load of parts for these though, almost every week i see something else i never knew existed !

Shame your having to sell up buddy... looks like you found an ideal playground for the SCX10

Longer ones are for the lower front and rear and the shorter for the tops front and rear... Making links is an easy job... you just need some 4mm threaded rod from B&Q and 4mm alu tube, also from B&Q, then some traxxas revo rod ends and your set. HTH, Nige

Nice work... looks really well put together... How much oil did you use in the shocks? They look a little firm in the video clip, like there isnt enough give in them for the axles to articulate freely.

This place isnt bad There are others though, scalerc, rccrawling.co.uk, rccrawler.com, rcsparks to name a few... most if not all also have FB pages as well. Mine was originally a Honcho too, love it and my Slash has hardly been out since I got it.

Haha... well at least youve got inspiration !

Was looking at the BJR parts for the SCX10 on RPP the other day... lovely parts but plenty

Thats turned out really well... suits the stretched Honcho thats for sure.

Buying 2nd hand is a good way to get into this side of the hobby, its how i did it with mine (was originally a honcho)... As long as what you are looking at has been reasonably maintained you should be fine. I bought mine with some extras already on it for

Looks cool, nice location in the latest pics as well...

+1 on the above, running one on my scx10 as well. Got a Novak BEC on mine (6v) and its plenty strong enough even with weighted wheels

Pinched one of the girls hair bobbles, cut it in half then cut a paper clip in half and wound it round the end and into a hook. Sounds pants but was very easy and they actually look quite good for what they are and being completely free

I enjoyed it... granted this side of the hobby leans closer to scale but I think sometimes we get too hung up on it... When i first built the Silverado (which is based on a Honcho chassis) i added a roof rack and made some scale bits n bobs to "accessorise" the whole thing. On the first proper trail i went on with some guys on NRCTD the truck rolled down a decent sized hill and everything shot out of the rack (it was tied down)... from that point on i took it all out and stuffed it in my bag. Now i've got a land anchor in the rack and the snow board (just cause i imported it and waited ages so didnt want to give up on it yet...lol), i've made some bungee cords to hold everything down and thats it... oh, a camo roll to look like a blanket is in there to, but thats it. What i'm saying is that imo if its functional and will help you out on the trail or in a comp then run it on the truck, if it isnt and you cant bolt it down, you'll lose it at some point and soon change your mind like i did. Waiting for the flaming now... Nige

Couple of updates on the truck... Added some weight to the wheels... used strips of lead flashing wrapped around the wheel... fronts all in now weigh 300g and the rears 200g each. Following the last update, Big Gaz came through for me with a new front bumper... i also got the TopCad winch (inc wireless controller) through so have installed those as well. Few pics from the garden, havent had chance to get it out properly since You cant see it but there is a land anchor from Don's place (eBay) in the roof rack and i made up some bungee cords (from a spare hair bobble and some paper clips) holding everything down. Next on the list will be some homemade sand ladders and i think i'm going to use the Honcho spare wheel bracket cut down a tad to mount them on the bed of the truck... will update once i have that sorted. Cheers, Nige

Know what you mean about the strips into the groove in the wheels... i did put a piece into the small "channel / groove" in the wheels as well as a layer around the circumference (2 layers on the fronts). I'll pop the beadlocks off and have a furk about with the foams, see if i can make them better... Cheers guys

Looks cool, kind of has a top gear challenge flavor to it I saw a new ford pick up on the M1 the other day, it had this type of camper shell sat on the back with what looked like industrial strength bungee cords holding it down... kind of looked cool and precarious all at the same time... a real mans man type of camper...lol Will keep an eye on this one progressing

Thanks for the response... i used lead flashing, basically cut it into strips as wide as the wheel and wrapped it round. The fronts got 2 layers and the backs 1. In reality there is probably only 2-3mm of lead in depth but the 2 stage foams were pretty tight over the wheels without any lead in place, plus with the lead the foam cant squish down into the inside of the wheels either. To be fair, i havent used the truck for any real time outside since fitting the weight to the wheels so it might work its way about and sort itself out but there are a couple of slight bulges in the tyres where the foam has gathered more on the inside. Does that make sense ?

I did a search but couldnt find anything specific to the SCX10 / trail type of truck, more specific to actual crawlers... Anyway... i'm running a set of stock Axial bead locks with Pit Bull 1.9 Rock Beast tyres. The foams that came with the tyres are 2 stage and were fine until i added weight to the wheels. Now there is obviously less room for the foams (which are pretty deep) so they are uneven and disfigured in the tyre and causing a lot of tyre wobble (or at least the appearance of wobbling). I'm after recommendations for replacement foams if you guys have any? - I do have the stock foams from the Flat Irons still, wasnt sure if these were any good? Thanks, Nige

Depending on your budget, have a look on eBay or the usual suspects like STRC, Vanquish etc

I went through a similar thought process when I got the Silverado body for mine... I had the rear end of a Honcho which I was going to try and incorporate, in the end I decided it was too much hassle and cutting up of the body to make it work and look quality, I didnt want it to just look hacked up and bodged together. I've seen a couple of guys using the Dingo cage on pick up beds, cut down a bit to fit, it looks quite good as well.

Looks mint AJ... if i hadnt seen the running pics i'd swear this thing hadnt been out of the house... you must strip it down to parts and clean everything when you get it home !

I don't have the packaging anymore so cant check to confirm the p/n I remember they were more expensive than the actual rod and tube though...lol When i did mine I found a guy on YouTube that was making them, I just bought the same rod ends he used. Revo does sound right.

I used 4mm threaded rod and 4mm tube from b&q the threaded rod just slides through nice and tight. I'm then using traxxas rod end which have wound onto the thread tightly as well. You could probably push the rod ends onto 5mm thread, looking at the rod ends im sure there is enough material there to make it work ok.

You will be better starting your own thread rather than hijacking this one buddy... it will get a better response that way.

The run it as it is and dont tinker for a while lasted about 2 weeks...lol Mr Big Gaz is kindly making me up a new front bumper based on his own design from 3-4 bumpers i like from the likes of RC4WD etc... looking forward to what he comes up with - thanks again buddy In the meantime i have ordered a winch - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-operating-winch-1-10-RC-Crawler-SILVER-may-suit-Axial-Honcho-Tamiya-/400670135155?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item5d49cd1373 and since i dont have spare channels on the rx i have ordered a wireless controller to go with it - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-control-alloy-winch-1-10-RC-Crawler-suit-Integy-winch-Axial-/121284102174?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item1c3d18881e Will update as parts arrive etc... Cheers, Nige