danb1974

If you want it cheap, brushed is the only answer. If price doesn't scare you and you want instant (and I mean instant) throttle response, brushless is the way. Sensored, to have low rpm range control. Lipo required, nimh can't deliver the power burst needed when you hit the throttle. Any motor no matter how weak can at some point break grip, but from there to tight controlled drift it's a very long way. Even if you go brushed, I'd say get a 18T or lower motor (there is a reason why the sprint 2 drift rtr comes with a 15T combo).

Please please please redo that solder job. Most likely the connector never got warm enough and you got one big cold solder joint. Also check lipo voltage with a multimeter, should have at least 6v total (3v per cell)

But with a drift car, even on straights aren't you supposed to do a long drift? I imagine with the steering angles of a cs chassis, you could go almost sideways

Start with the sprint 2 A 5000mAh 20C battery is more than enough. Get a decent charger (something like turnigy accucel 6). After some practice (and raising some money) look for a sensored brushless combo to replace the stock brushed one

What's the upper price limit? shaft vs belt... more like a personal preference, each has ups and downs

If I get it right, you use a car with what we (incorrectly) call cs ratio greater that 1 (rear wheels spin faster than front wheels) to be able to keep countersteer during the entire turn, to make it look real

You should try some day a sensored brushless motor. Don't bother with sensorless. You may never touch a brushed motor after that.

Any esc that takes 6-cell nimh will work on 2s lipo, but if it does not have lipo cutoff you will need that lipo alarm

A 2S 5000mAh lipo should last for an hour or so (I get an hour and a half doing low speed drift with brushless motor) and is pretty cheap (20ish dollars on hobbyking) You also need a decent lipo charger, that will cost more than the battery And if your esc does not have lipo cutoff, you also need a lipo alarm, these are super cheap on ebay

First time I drove a 1:8 offroad beast (not sure what it was, a savage maybe) powered by 6s lipo, I learned that throttle is not about being on or off, there are so many in between positions and I should use them. Yes at first it's a shock when you come from some 27t silver can which you can floor without hesitation (and consequences). Give less than half throttle to the 1:8 beast and it backflips instantly. Like flooring a 60hp car in 4th gear than switching to a ferrari. So yes learn to be easy on the throttle and it will work great. You'll get very fast used to it.

I've used a sensored 8.5t 5800kv motor with the lowest possible pinion. A little fast but I learned to be light on the throttle. Also a tx with epa helps (or an esc with throttle limit). Around 4000kV is better though. If you have a ball diff you can just tighten it a bit. You really want the back wheels to spin more or less together, else the car spins uncontrollably. Geared diffs can be filled with really thick diff oil (100k, 300k)

Yeah, seen it, drooled a bit, too expensive for now. Let me first destroy the ms-01d.

I'm getting the mst ms-01d from Germany, it's way cheaper converted from euros than from gbp to my local currency. The shop I'm buying sais it's in stock. I'm also getting spare front and rear belts, this is no longer shaft world...

How much steering angle has the yokomo drift package type c? No need for extreme angles (no cs, heck, no one way yet), but on my tb02 if I thrown my back a little to much I cannot catch it because of the steering

Currently I learn drifting on a tb-02 chassis, driven by a sensored brushless combo. This is a touring chassis, not enough steering angle for drifting, which really hurts. Also not ideal weight distribution and pretty noisy. Good for (drift-)bashing on dirty parking place because of the shaft-drived closed transmission, but that's about it. Plastic chassis means screw holes strip one after another, no matter how careful I am, so the car does not see enough maintenance. As Santa is working on it's gift list, I'm looking for a chassis that is from the beginning designed for drift and drift only. Not touring chassis, not "drift editions" that merely include some aluminium updates. Buget being around 200 euros for a roller, I cannot seem to find many options. The one that stands out is the mst ms-01d, price is right, looks good, parts available in Europe. Not too many reviews though. Belt driven, will have a problem outdoors, plenty of dust and small debris on roads and parkplaces around the part of the world I live in. In my price range Yokomo has only the entry level drift package type c. Would love to try the new released dpm shaft-driven chassis, but it's double the price... Sakura has the d3 cs, which (a) comes stock with cs and ( seems a bit too low on quality. Also parts may be an issue. Any other chassis I should look at?

If you put in a powerfull motor you may have to change most of the transmission - stock shaft, cups and dogbones are all plastic See, that's the problem with tt01, too many upgrades before you hit the street

I have experience and equipment for electronics stuff, not for building a truer would rather build an esc For now a friend of a friend works on a real lathe and he'll do one set of wheels, but on the long term a small truer would be nice

tt01 is a very popular chassis, pretty cheap but an old (first model came out in 2003) and limited design. It's ok to start with, but beware you can like triple it's value once you start upgrading it. If at some point you find yourself throwing a lot of money into upgrades, sell it and get a better chassis. If you get one, make sure it's a type E and has at least bearings and aluminium drifeshaft. Metal motor mount and aluminium steering with bearings would also be nice.

Hello, Looking for a simple small inexpensive tire truer with adapter for 1/10 onroad wheels (like fastrax fast2006 - just the basics, manual advance, nothing else) which can true a drift wheel giving that I go carefully in small steps to protect the blade Please estimate shipping to Romania (it's part of EU so no customs trouble) via a signed-for service, like royal air mail signed-for (Yeah a hobby grade lathe would be best, but way over my budget) Thanks

Original traxxas nimh's are _way_ overpriced. Also nimh cannot deliver the current a brushless motor needs. Get two 2200 lipo's (I think the cheapest are turnigy's at hobbyking, aroung $12 a piece) wired in parralel for runtime. 4400 lipo beats the hell out of 2400 nimh. Don't forget to activate lipo protection on the esc

Not really, I used it in lack of a better word (english not my native language) A good car can drift around a dime, face towards it. A cheap car can pick up some speed, skid a little sideways, repeat. Fun for the first 5 minutes, than boring. There are many videos on youtube that show a little skidding around and call that drift. Wrong. Took me months of frustration and changes (started with a tt01, big mistake, ended up changing the whole car) to realize that while I'm a rookie and not even a gifted one, a good car made things happen and put a smile on my face.

Do you want to skid or to drift? Do you want to start cheap and keep throwing money into it or pay upfront and start with a decent chassis? Do you want shaft or belt driven?

fdr depends on your motor kV rating (more kV, bigger fdr). It's also a matter of taste. For example I used 7.5fdr with a 4300kV motor and felt it was fast enough. Yokomo for their 10.5T motor rated at 4500kV recommend 6.5fdr for drift. For drift a 3000-and-some to 4000-and-some kV motor should be enough (you can use faster motors, just increase fdr - smaller pinion, bigger spur - I'm now playing with a 5800kV at 8.8fdr). Go for a sensored combo, it makes things soooo much easier, it gives excellent throttle control (fast and smooth response).

The problem with tt01 is that you have to spend at least once the value of the car on upgrades, before even starting to play with it. In the end with the same money or less you could have bought a decent platform which requires little to none upgradres (tb03 if you like tamiya, a second hand mr4tc from yokomo or a tc4 from associated, to name a few). Yes I started with one and sold it before it hit too hard on my wallet. Stock tt01 doesn't even have ball bearings, transmission is all plastic from spur to wheel, steering slop is ridiculous, shocks are friction based and suspension is not adjustable. Throw in a brushless motor and you'll probably break something. After you finish changing all these (let's see, bearings, front and rear adjustable arms, shaft + cups, universals, dogbones, oil shocks, motor mount, aluminium steering with ball bearings) , you probably doubled the value and some. And you still cannot adjust droop. If you want a tt01, get a tt01r, it already has most or all of these upgrades. As for motor, imho nothing compares to a sensored brushless setup and a decent lipo battery (2S 5000mAh/20C is all you need and is cheap). There is no way back to the lag of a brushed or the lack of smoothness of a non-sensored brushless.

Willing to sell separately two of the lipos, shipping to Europe?