SirusDviruS

Hi I've (last weekend) broken in a fastrax enduro and I must say it was an absolute pleasure. First ever start took 5 pulls, easy to start and keep running every time since. I'm going to be leaning it out this weekend Right.... Box needle settings are too lean. I used a p3 plug Heat the engine well before trying to start it. REALLY IMPORTANT. I personally opted for a lower nitro fuel with tons of oil (20% and 14% respectively) Loosen the glow plug before starting, tighten once started. I also stripped, inspected, cleaned, lubed, sealed and re-built before first use, although not strictly necessary. That said the bolts wernt evenly torqued on any component. Mark BDC on the fly wheel, keep it at BDC before attempting to start and when cooling down. ------ Needle settings: Back the LSN right off, set the idle gap 1-1.5mm. Set the MSN as per manual (flush IIRC). Hold the carb shut then screw in the LSN untill you feel resistance, don't over do it, make sure the MSN doesn't move. Unscrew the LSN to the amount the manual says in full turns. Screw the HSN in untill you feel resistance, unscrew in full turns the amount in the manual. Happy days!

Good thread, nice to see it rescued and for a bargain price

What would you be putting it in frogster?

I was feeling a tad guilty on how much I've spent the past few months..... Untill I read this thread! I feel much better now

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/321381576449 Various widths available, 3mm is probably best. Do the out line in that and the rest in normal masking tape.

Sorry read it wrong

Power hd 1501 is approx 15kg and

Factory setting is a 'safe' setting. It's always too rich Note your current settings, they will be closer then the factory ones when you change fuels.

Very drole

By the 1/5th scale bug! Just been out looking for an empty car park to continue running in the Hyper's new engine, found one on an industrial estate. I was there about 30 mins having a lovely time on my Todd when a dude turned up with a Baja. (Chances of that?) looks like today is going to cost me some pennies in the near future What's the most cost effective way to Baja it up? (Clones) Here's a pic of the offending item

You could starter box it Or you could rota start it. That said, pull starts are for men, electrical starting aids are for girls

I had the P3 monster (pullstart) up untill recently in my Hyper 7 and it was a beast. Torquey as hell. It started getting boring blowing tyres off/apart On low idle it sounded fantastic (burbled). Joy to use as well. Very well behaved engine I was running it with a 15t bell, I think it would of been just as happy with a 17t (even if the clutch shoes wouldn't of been ) for some serious top end. As the name suggests it was designed to go in big heavy monster trucks, hence the torque. Make no mistake, it was more 'giant haystack's' then Bruce lee (kids will need the google that ). What it lacked in finesse it compensated with brut force and ignorance. I sold it recently as I wanted to go back to .21's longer tank times and the guy wanted it to make his savage wheelie. After he fitted it he said 'savage no longer knows what's the right way up' I have no experience of the other engines you mention.

Common on Picco engine, causes poor tune. Replacement backplate. I bought a new one for my P3 .28, wasn't expensive I'm not familiar with your specific engine model and I'm basing the above on the symptoms and remedy for the .28.

I recently sold a freshly rebuilt, excellent condition, tip top shell, 8 used wheels, 4 new wheels, inc radio gear for

I've never broken a pull start. (Touch wood ) Roto starts are the devils work. Just as much crap to charge and carry around as a starter box, with all the performance down sides as a pullstart. I know I'm a tad weird (!) but I like to feel what the engine is telling me when I start it, exactly the same reason I don't use air ratchets at work (cross threading? About to snap? Seized? Correct torque? Etc...) That and I don't like carrying/charging even more stuff

Pull start for life me mate {throws up some LA gang hand signs}

Monster Basher 20% Very early first impressions It's purple (I like ) It smells nice! doesn't hit you in the back of the throat like Byron's or optifuel. Smells a little like Model Technics but not quite. It started a brand new pullstart Fastrax enduro on the 5th pull. It's very oily (good for running in or n00b tuners. It's not 'sticky' like model technics yellow though. Temps have been very stable. EDIT: forgot to mention, it's not as smokey as Opti RTR 20% ----- Haven't gone anywhere near WOT yet. So far, I like. That said the real proof will be running VP 25% and OptiRace 25% side by side once I've finished breaking in

Got mine recently from their website?

I picked up my lat one for

Not a TS4N one mate, might be able to bodge one up from another car? Or buy a spares repairs pink chassis car and end up with plenty of spares

You want to fit a pink chassis radio box in a blue chassis car? If I'm right on the above, no they don't interchange mate

Get one from ebay Both sides for under a tenner new. Ner. http://bit.ly/1jZ1JOj

True words da hoop. The proof is in the pudding and all. I have (to test against) Opti RTR 20% Opti Race 25% Byron's 20% Byron's 25% VP 25% (Don't ask !) Might do a shoot out when I'm run in propley

I'm extremely confident you won't need a new engine

/\ yup Clean the grub screw and the cup thread with a cotton bud and a cleaning solvent too before you re-loctite