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Have you set the end points on the ESC? WOT/no throttle etc? If its beeping it sounds like its expecting to either be bound to a transmitter, or having its end points defined.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rc-electric-models/rc-car-categories/9900/990010&ManufacturerID=1099&MSAttributeID[82]=5&MSAttributeID[5]=520 FTX Banzai - £119 RTR. Its a tub chassis, it runs metal geared diffs front and back AND has a built in slipper clutch that would be ideal if you wanted to chuck a rally shell on and go bouncing around the gravel tracks. Plus FTX offer a lot of hop-ups for their range of cars so you have the ability to upgrade bits. Finally the metal geared drivetrain definitely lends itself more to brushless/LiPo than a plastic geared TT02 would.

For the money, and the cost of the spares, I think the Vantage is fantastic. You said that this is going to be for your children - they are more than likely going to crash and bash whatever you buy them, which is going to lead to a breakage or three. Spares on Modelsport are cheap as chips. Also the brushed version seems quite slow, but if your children are relatively young/new to RC then this slow speed might not be a bad thing

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-vantage-1-10-4wd-brushed-buggy-2-4ghz-waterproof/rc-car-products/379131 £110 brand new, RTR.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-8-2kg-0-11s-low-profile-digital-servo-metal-gear/rc-car-products/433036 .11sec 8.2kg Metal geared Cheap as chips

What's it doing exactly? Or not, as the case may be. What may you think to change the clutch?

Maybe not everyone out there is as confident as you on the end of a soldering iron? I'm confident in my soldering abilities, but not everyone is.

What was his final drive ratio for 4WD and 2WD?

Personally I wouldn't want to be jamming anything conductive into the guts of a LiPo pack where all the other cell connections are - risky shiz. If you can afford to dispose of it (safely) then it might be worthwhile? For what it's worth, if the wire that has snapped is the outer most black wire then I believe that in most cases that is just connected to the same negative tab as the main negative wire anyways. Might be an option for you to investigate - but I wouldnt recommend hunting around inside your LiPo with a soldering iron looking for the end of your broken wire.

Technically a 2WD RWD car "should" be faster, in that (as you correctly say) energy isnt being lost to drive train drag etc. However, RC car percentages probably aren't as big as we might believe them to be. Whereas in a real 1:1 car you would definitely notice the difference in power gained by converting from 4WD to 2WD, RC cars in comparison are a lot lot smaller and therefore any gains are a lot lot smaller - if noticeable at all. For the most part RC cars are massively overpowered anyways, again making any gains very much insignificant. Another thing to bear in mind is that your guy might be losing top speed in his overall run due to breaking traction during his acceleration phase - again something quite hard to notice to the naked eye (or ear), but might account for any reduction in top speed. 4WD offers more grip, therefore theoretically more grip under acceleration. 2WD offers more power into half the overall tyre contact patch. Lots of variables to consider.

I used to race at Swindon in 2005ish, when it was mud and concrete! Great track though

Good choice! I've never been to Brookthorpe, but heard good things about it. I've raced at Ledbury a few times before - great venue, great track, and the Powneys who used to/still do run it are lovely people. There is also an 8th track at Swindon which is a great place to race: https://swindonrcmodelcarclub.wordpress.com/race-track/

Top end of Cheltenham - I take my nephew to the skate park a lot in the summer normally, before virus-life took over!

Churchdown?

How much???

+1 for get it out the house, away from anything that'll set fire .

Elliot, I've been Googling to try and find an online manual to try and help but I couldn't find anything, sorry. Did you say you have an online manual? Did the ESC come with a paper version? The only thing that comes to mind from what I have read: If you are 100% certain that your ESC doesn't have a set button then your ESC might just need setting up by the throttle. Try this, but make sure all wheels are off the ground: 1. Everything off, plug battery in. 2. With transmitter ON and car OFF hold full throttle. 3. Whilst holding full throttle turn ESC on. 4 IF the car goes full throttle let go - I can't help you anymore sorry. 5. IF the car doesn't move see if it beeps after 2-3 seconds. 6. If it beeps then press full brake till it beeps. 7. Once that beeps let it go to neutral. Let us know if any of that helps

Firstly you gotta put some more information in your post - there are hundreds and hundreds of ESC's on the market - give us a clue; which one is it? The more information you put in your posts, the better people here will be able to help you 👍

Ordered an FTX Comet ST yesterday through Modelsport, arrived this afternoon. Woop!

Kids and programmable buttons are not a good combination! Glad you got it sorted - enjoy your faster Outlaw!

I have no idea about rota-starts sorry. Hopefully someone else can help. I'm not sure, but I think rota-starts are engine specific? You might struggle to find one to suit your engine, but like I said I dont know enough about rota-starts to give you any decent advice, sorry

http://hobao-racing.com/en/news_a1.php?id=49 COPS allows you to easily blank off the pull start plate if you are bumping the engine off a starter box.

I'm a racer through and through really so have no experience switching cell counts, but I guess the logic behind dropping pinion size when adding more volts is to reduce load so you can reassess your gearing from that point? - Its a guess though.. If your acceleration is rapid then certainly start gearing up - just keep an eye on motor temps and see how you go from there. As far as "gearing it down" goes, you'll probably hear lots of people give you lots of different phrases - not to dissimilar to the whole Northern/Southern debate about whether a bread roll is a tea cake or not. So many different phrases for the same thing! Basically though: Smaller pinion will make it accelerate faster at the expense of top speed. Larger spur will also make it accelerate faster at the expense of top speed. Larger pinion will make it faster at the expense of acceleration (usually..) Smaller spur will make it faster at the expense of acceleration (usually..) Hope that helps?

Out of the box, if its a Tamiya pinion that has come with a new kit you can be almost certain that it is 0.6mod. This link is helpful: https://tamiyabase.com/forum/11-technical/2969-list-of-cars-motor-pinions#2975 These are the 0.6mod pinions available on Modelsport: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pinion-gears/rc-car-categories/9920/992050&ManufacturerID=53&MSAttributeID[41]=647 Hope that helps

Hi all, Does anyone know of any UK shop with an FTX Comet buggy in stock please? Thanks!