ninjagaiden

Lid painted and stickered up Ninjagaiden stylie. Di-Noc Carbon fibre wrap to keep the bottom plate fresh. Metal on metal screws threadlocked. Just need some better weather for a maiden run...

Folks, I ordered some of these King Motor wheels to get a better all-terrain setup on my Baja. http://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/wheels-tyres/buggy-wheels/all-terrain-buggy-wheels-black-poison-rims-rear-pair.html The wheels look great and they have a metal reinforced hex fittings, but they don't quite fit on my HPI hubs (same is true for fronts and rears). Anyone else had this problem? I was going to just swap the tyres and beadlocks over to my old wheels but I quite like the design of the KM wheels. I'm thinking of how to remove a little material from the hexes without making the wheels wonky.

Thanks for the tips guys. Turok - those panels are awesome - you've got skills there (and they are orange too) Apparently the KM rollcage is actually a clone of the Team Chase cage. Mine arrived yesterday and I just finished fitting it. Apart from some M5 Nyloc nuts which are needed for my brushless conversion plates the cage is excellent and very well put together.

Seriously though, they drift extremely well on tarmac. Absolutely great for hooning around in the cul-de-sac at home. I can't get my TB04 set up to drift as well as my EMB-1.

Don't forget to gear down a bit for the bigger wheels, or your motor will get toasty!

Glamis Uno has quite a trick torque vectoring diff - looks pretty complicated. Is the missing tooth on the outer ring? If so it should make a periodic clicking noise, grinding suggests something in the diff internals is binding.

So I can get the Rovan body panels from rovan.nl for 55 quid including postage, but only in blue and yellow colour. Guess I'll see what the bodyshell is like first and have a look at getting some thin white polycarbonate sheeting.

Folks, I just ordered a rollcage for my e-Baja, but it doesn't come with panels yet. Any tips on sourcing polycarbonate for making your own panels, and also on how to put bends in them without damaging the polycarbonate. Cheers N

I've had this exact issue on a Hobbyking X-car ESC with an OrangeRx receiver. It was solved by rebinding with the Tx zeroed out on both channels. Something to do with the failsafe positions being sent by the RX before it got signal lock with the Tx I suspect.

Spoke to John from RCToyz to confirm the roll cage fits onto a HPI 5b. Also ordered some nice all terran wheels to go with it. He says they should get body panels in stock soon. He also gave me 5% discount code for Christmas. Thanks again for your recommendations.

So i've read it is less on 4S, and people have tried changing shock oils to help settle the front down a bit. You'd need to change to a transverse motor mount and redesign the gearbox completely to engineer out the torque twist. Given it ships with open diffs, the option of a CD would be really nice, even if you had to manually lock it for crawling. Also if the 6S setup is anything like the Mamba monster setups I've owned, the low speed power modulation is pants. I imagine you'd end up pointing it at some rock and just gunning the throttle (not to say this wouldn;t be fun mind!) I love the looks of this thing, but it has got a bit of an identity crisis going on!!!

Thanks for sharing the vid. That's much harder bashing than I would ever put it through, and it kind of came out okay. Open diffs and torquey unsensored motor means this is not a crawler by any means. That torque twist is strange though and I see what you mean about it acting like a CD. I'd rather it did have the CD to help even out the power distribution. Imagine a YETI XL with Summit style locking diffs front and back and a 2 speed gearbox. That would be cool.

Awesome guys! I'm going to give them a call tomorrow - want to see if they have body panels for it.

Did you mean this one http://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/sand-rail-metal-roll-cage-roll-bar-87.html or this one http://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/alloy-upgrade-parts/chassis-parts/nylon-buggy-truck-roll-cage.html Would it fit my genuine Baja 5b, and can you get panels for it? There's lots of nice looking things on that web site mate. Thanks!

If you will only ever want to run one car, then a Flysky GT2B will do the job. If you might end up with several cars, then a used Spektrum DX3c is a decent programmable radiio and spektrum compatible receivers are dead cheap.

The Quanum Vandal is actually an FTX Vantage in kit form, and costs under

Rob I'm also very interested in hearing how you get on with the XL. Sounds like you drive similarly to me. I'd like to see a motor mount that would take a 1717 Can.

Lower temps too!

Yes I did Tug. There's some good vids of it running on forest scrub too, not too many real writeups though.

Guys I have been following comments on the new Axial Yeti XL with great interest on some of the US forums. Initially I had panned this truck for being too flimsy, too much ballooning, and not offering any more than a standard Yeti. Then I got to thinking: The standard Yeti is a very neat design in terms of size to weight. I built up a roller chassis with a 4S power system and a 2100Kv motor and it's looking like it will be really nice for bashing. The body cage gives it real presence but it's mostly air hanging out of the back. No twin vertical ally plates. No ally chassis stiffeners. I have two big RC's, an e-Baja and a Maverisk Vader running at 8S with a kershaw conversion. Running 8S is expensive, a bit like 6S was back 5 years ago. The Vader can put down the 8S power because of the 4WD and no centre diff but I worry about crunching the drivetrain. The eBaja with a 2028 motor is a solid platform, but really struggles to put the power down. So could the Yeti Xl be a good go-to truck for something that isn't going to be caned too much like a Revo or a Savage? Sure it only runs 6S electrics but a Savage Flux with a bit of extra Aly bling and some big tyres will weigh in at 7kg whilst the Yeti XL weighs just under 6Kg. If an aftermarket motor mount comes out that fits the excellent Castle 1717 it will have an amazing power to weight ratio, whlilst being ablt to run on 6S electrics and packs. Also I didn't realise that unlike the little Yeti, the XL comes with open diffs front and back, which is going to help handling and turning circle. For sure the tyre ballooning is a problem, but is sorted with belting, and it is absolutely criminal that it has the same stock steering servo as the little Yeti, but these things are easliy sorted. Anyone got an XL yet who would care to chip in - I'd love to hear your views.

Yipeee! Father Christmas spotted a lightning deal on AIAIAI TMA-1's. 50% off RRP. He's just so Money Supermarket!

All gone now. Please close. thanks!

Thanks. I tried scaling and overlaying images of the DBXL and the Vader chassis. Looks like the DBXL wheelbase is also quite a bit extra. As a result the DBXL shell would not clear the wheels of the Vader. Will have to have a bit more of a think...

Carlton : PM sent with payment details.