Deafty

Hi fellas. Re:Serpent Serpent UK tor parts or message me Put a gear diff in ya srx

Photobucket = forum destroyers.

Dboots nano or terabyte. 1/2 the price + last longer

yup +1

Yeah,. as said though if only 2s (i thought you were on 4 s ) then yeah you can go lower. Rule is though it has to be more than the lipo!.

Hi. I have experienced a similar issue before. For me, it turned out to be a blown cap. Get ya self a 24v or higher low impedence capacitor at around a 1000Uf. Splice solder that on to the esc power cables as close as possible to the esc and see how it goes If it dont work at least you'll get a little more punch when you hammer it for that double. On a side note, try to have more mid/exit corner speed when coming out of the last corner before the double. Hope ýou get it solved soon.

Toasty

reverse the tx channel and recaibrate esc. Do not change motor wires!

Uf rating and voltage. Low impedence is key

I'm going to say Sworkz or Serpent

Eeek. Lrp are the main sponsers of nationwide racing events over here in Germany. This could be bad if no one else steps up.

How many teeth on the spline? all my Hitecs are 25t if that helps

I've found adding more silver changes the brightness/vibrance. I would go 2x white inside after 1 silver personally followed by clear r for added protection. That is if it don't show/cant be seen from the wheel arches etc.

If you liked the shell that was backed in silver and: want it slightly brighter --> back the silver with white. want it slightly duller ---> back the silver with black. Must have same/similar result and black inside ---> back the silver with more silver then white then black. etc.. etc.

Are you open to other brands?

Visit hobbyking before you start thinking u need to spend 60+ quid on 1

What oil was in there when it broke?

Rear end done this morning. Wheely bar shock is a bit of a gimmick. Piston needed desperate smoothing but no worries really. Ackermann assembly complete using a whopping 0.6mm of shims under that silly e-clip. My servo won't bolt on and as mentioned by 1 of you (sry forgot who) a simple metal plate and she be fine. I'm missing a servo horn so if u actually get 1 can someone please post the height/full depth of the spline (where you screw into servo to the servo itself. Ty.

thats pretty funny oho Built the front on mine when I was down at the club tonight. All was there. Needed 0.3 shims (4mm internal) on 3 out of 4 of the outdrives before entering the diff. the other 0.2. 1 diff cap wouldn't take the outdrive cleanly (resolved) Diffs where notchy in one place , reseated and screwed--> same result. Pun em up slowly with a few drops of oil in using a cordless driver --> smooth as --> cleaned and rebuilt and very happy. A arms appeared sloppy on 1 side, was just a matter of adjusting how often and how far to work each screw home. Upper arms clearly need shimming but I see that as tunning option. All in all pretty decent, hubs arms and carriers all seem 'durable* The shock tower however does not,. time will tell. Is it just me or does the steering throw (full lock) seem like not enough? I think I'm gonna re look at the hub assembly to see if anything can be shaved off. I need CVD's Who's finished the build so far? just Oho and Jim ?

That will be too embarrassing I'm afraid. I'll see if I can get 1 tomorrow as its at my other house

Ok some very rough pics Obviously I must have used a long body post on the rear. I cant't remeber completley but i think I tapped a thread into a spare MT post or something like that. This thing really needs attention

Just got mine Had a quick peek an inspected some bulkheads and drivetrain parts. Appears all is there. I have a ton of shims and small files etc etc. So I may need to 'assemble' this my way but honestly I am actually very impressed. For my serpents 22 Euro would buy 1-2 parts. I got a whole model including a decent shell with window masks! I am a little annoyed there are no front cvd's but to include a working roll cage lights instead of offering them as a hop up is a pretty generous inclusion. I have electrics lying around so this will only need a spare rx spent on it hopefully. The plastic moulding is definetely on the the lazy side of production, but I have a a decent scalpel to trim, tidy and tweak the proper shape of parts to fit. All in all this is what it is. If I had paid 70 or god forbid the full rtr price I would feel like I should have put the monies elsewhere. As it stands they may have got me for 22 Euro but I am a happy customer. If I am missing parts and cant complete the build then I'll just buy another one cos they still in stock in my neck of the woods

yeah it was they discontinued it 1-2 yrs ago. It is said most if not all the issues are fixed on the v2 (driveline esp ) no idea on hk leccy sry they stock the hitec servo though.

That blows. They don't have v2 stock either only the old v1 sub par stuff. I won't be building mine for a while but I guess I should check at least that issue. oo thats a v2 part