lilllad83

Paypal addy pls il take it. Thanks rich

Firstly welcome to the forum, and to the hobby! there are many options for buying 2nd hand- there's trade section on here, maxbashing, oople, and the obvious ones like eBay, gum tree, preloved etc etc as for what to buy that's going to depend what u want, 2wd/4wd mid motor/rear motor, budget etc.. Although I have a feeling you may want something with a bit more ground clearence and go-anywhere-ability like a truck or sc and the like.. My 1/10 buggies seem to get foiled by anything other than manicured grass :-/ I'd suggest something like a stadium or short course truck which can be had for around the same

if u stil got ur original rx ill solder u a new antenna wire on if u like? Pop it in the post ill sort it n fire it back to you, just pay the post m8

check eBay fella, there was loads of desc and dex stuff on there last week, the parts u need should be universal between the 3 models and cheap too.. the metal hinge pin inserts will serve you much better than the plastic also :-)

5.5mm nut wrench, servo tester and the program card pls boss Paypal waiting :-)

no direct recommendations but with a 4s buggy u can modify things gearing etc and add more lipos (esc permitting) to achieve speeds up to and beyond 100mph search team associated rc8 speed runs on YouTube.

would like this gone ASAP make me an offer? Not pictured but included; Ft sway bar set Set of half worn dirt tyres Front centre cv shaft Set of worn tyres (used as roadies) another pair of older 2s lipos Hinge pin inserts A few silver cone washers (to replace blue plastic washers on front knuckles)

Open to sensible offers :-)

Forgot to add there is a pair of 8.2 anti rol bars that have not been fitted I'll include also

hi all, for sale is an rc8.2 rtr with a reedy 2000kv motor, xp esc and turnigy metal gear servo. the chassis has a few upgrades bringing it closer to the factory team version; alloy blue suspension plates alloy blue top plate rear cv's and axles tini hinge pins in excellent condition having been mostly ran on astro at cmcc although it has had a few packs on the dirt and a few test runs in a car park. diffs are 7f, 5c, 3r the shock oil is 32.5f 27.5r also included are the fitted wheels and a set of bolds used for tarmac, the shock spacers, original tools- hex keys etc camber gauge, locktight, original rear dog bones & axles, 2.4 radio set, and 4 2s lipos with no swells Always storage charged after every use. -one of the lipos cases is cracked from being dropped and has been taped all you need is a charger and handset batts and your ready to go -have the wheel wrench somewhere ill include also. any questions just ask, price is

I know I'm gona get stick for this but I don't see probs using the 80a esc if geared correctly. my son uses the rage in his rc8.2, a friend has it in his mugen and another friend had it in his rc8.2 before he sold it all making the 15 min mark on 4s running a fast track layout and not once have we had any issues with thermal or appearances from the magic genie. gear right for the occasion and jobs a good'un!

After doing a conversion and owning a couple of erevos I can honestly say it makes no difference if u use 1800 or 2650 or whatever kv u want, it's not like ull be racing it lol that being said a lower kv will give u more run time and more tork. in my 3.3 conversion I used 1965kv, 2000kv, 2200kv and 2650kv on 3,4&6s Yes the 2650 has more rpm but with the right gearing all the above acheive roughly the same speeds so get the best value for money IMO then spend the money u saved changing the diff cases for metal jobs as the 3.3 diffs are made of cheese lol or at least up rate to the erevo diff cases

Soz I can't m8 it's track work day at cmcc tomoro

From what I understand and correct me if I'm wrong but most bearings are sealed and greased inside, this actually creates some resistance, when they are oiled (especially with gt or wd) it washes out some grease giving less friction, this may reduce the bearings life but allow it to roll much more freely

Set ur charger to storage charge, should be at 3.82 v per cell to store - there is a lipo guide somewhere (suicide Neil has it linked in his sig) you will struggle to find a clear 1/8 wing m8, least I've never seen one! Look on Modelsport (other sites are available lol) they have plenty of 1:8 wings to choose from, either a vorza specific or one with no holes so you can get a good fit (not all wings have the Same hole spacings) Hope this helps some :-)

Would you take what u paid for the rc8be? Ie

I am not rubbishing the excellent advice given by any means, although I happily move cells around if one goes bad just beware the quality of your solder and the most obvious point of not shorting with the iron.. and make sure your iron is a high wattage as the solder used has a much high melting point than most.. good luck and mostly be careful!! Ps don't use a knife to open/seperate the cells lol use a plastic baking spatular

Might be gearing, sounds like a smaller pinion needed for rough terrain. Could also be the battery not providing enough discharge too

For my lad when he started rc I drilled a tiny hole behind the trigger and inserted a small screw which is obviously adjustable and works great, this is assuming you don't have EPA

did anyone find a uk supplier for these if there not disc? thanks

Sorry but sounds like a fried motor :-( check for free rotation, then take end of can off and check the rotor for scuffs or what looks like hair on it.. Usually a good indicator it's been overheated

I also use red thread lock everywhere! never had any bother removing stuff, if all else fails try file the annoyingly pointless cone shape to flat at the end of grub screw so it makes a better contact with the shaft.

Use an old shell cut out front window and mount to top of centre diff for drivers eye view ;-)

I use a 50w channel charger an charge 6600 In 30/45 mins at 1c reliably, seems odd it taking that ammount of time tbh that's from a car battery, at 40ah it's not massive but gives me 8-10 charges (2s) before its spent which is enough for a race meet or days practice.. No noticable diffenece to a mains charge until the last battery which usually takes a tad longer.. if you have a car batt already try a charge off that see if its longer/shorter than a mains charge? shouldn't be taking that long from an 80w charger :-/

Few guys running worlds at my local they look lovely, tempted myself when bills are paid! although the new cat looks good too... Decisions decisions!