mrfodds

You normally get the oils in the kit. You'll need a decent set of hex drivers though, if you're going for the Losi you'll need imperial size, not metric. There could be a set in the kit but not entirely sure, I'd be amazed if there was.

That's plenty,

Lost a few teeth on mine today and need a replacement. If anyone has a 46t spur gear or even a full centre diff from an 808 or XB9 they'd be willing to sell please get in touch. Thanks

I think you're going to struggle to get parts for that. Not the most popular of models unfortunately

Losi 8eight 2.0 can be had for

Can recommend the Lutz. I run mine with the 2090 pipe just because I read somewhere that you get better run times with that pipe. Has plenty of power and will easily do 10 mins. Needs richening massively before running in, just double check with the manual.

Get hold of the manual (shouldnt be too hard in this day and age unless its really obscure / old ) and have a ruler handy to help identify screw lengths.

That's what everyone said at the endurance race last year at NDOR but apparently its no hyper engine. It's got good race credentials too, won the midlands super cup (against much more expensive mills albeit in the hands of a pro driver). There's a reason why you don't see hyper engines in buggy racing but quite a few fastrax enduros......

I think the above is right, but once you tighten the clutch nut it pulls the crank forward ever so slightly removing any play that there was. Anyway, once it's all tightened up it should not move. If the flywheel is hitting the carb then use a shim before the collet to move it away. If you have to use a lot of shims at that point then you probably need a smaller flywheel or larger collet.

Personally I'd go for the fastrax engine. Hyper engines are notoriously poor and don't last very long so even if you repair it with new parts i wouldn't expect it to last very long at all. The fastrax enduro engine is a good upgrade without breaking the bank.

There shouldn't be any play in the flywheel AT ALL! Tighten that nut up good and proper. If there's any play in the flywheel you'll go through clutch bearings like there's no tomorrow and the the engine wont idle properly. You can have play in the clutch bell (about 1mm is fine) but the flywheel should have none.

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Hi, Selling my Speed Controller as it was bought in error. Originally bought as a motor/esc combo for use in 1s lipo racing (Supastox) but this didn't have the voltage boost needed to give a fast response on the servo. Perfect for 2s and above though. Seen very little use as a result, 4 runs maximum. Comes with instruction manual.

Look at the Core RC packs at

More price drops, need rid so open to reasonable offers too

More items added, servo and mugen/sworkz air filters

Price drops, shell

Lipo sold

Car sold - spares available as package

Few bits to clear out New unused Sworkz shell painted by 13Bodies. Although not pictured, I have the front nose piece for this painted white.

Hiya, Selling my Sworkz after a summers worth of racing simply because the guys I race with all race Xray so I'm jumping ship! The car comes with a few spares, most BNIP, a used shell, all the available springs (black, red, blue and silver) as well as all the rear toe-in blocks, anti-roll bars and the wheel dust covers. The spares list includes: Fuel Tank Front arms Rear arms Front hubs Rear hubs Centre front driveshafts Centre rear driveshaft Diff gaskets Front/rear lower arm hingepins plus other opened packets of washers, screws and nuts The shell is included but it is by no means perfect. Will come boxed with manual. I'm asking for

Like others have said the OS P3 should be ok. If you can get hold of them, the O'Donnell 97t is the plug to have. Will last ages in your Alpha. Stay away from the Alpha plugs though, pretty poor in comparison to the OS and O'Donnell plugs.

There's an engine break in method that requires running your engine at WOT for 10 tanks albeit at a very rich setting. I think it's Bullit that recommend this method.