Ruhel

I second that!! 1 of my all time favourite games. Did you know the old mechcomander games are now shareware?

It will be run on a 6s one day. Have a brand new spare set of diffs just for the occasion. But if I can locate some good strong ones I'll be happy. I know they can handle 6s as a guy on YouTube post vids of him running 6s but the car was mental. Wheeled all the way across a field without even losing any speed.

Old tech is brushed motors, new tech is brushless motors. Can handle more power plus nearly maintenance free. Battery wise you had NiMh and NiCd and new guy is LiPo. Same as laptops and mobile phones I think. Have longer runtimes plus pump out higher voltages for their size compared to the stick packs. Just need a bit of special treatment with charging and making sure they stay within a set voltage range. (YouTube lipo accidents). But if you don't abuse them then perfectly safe.

SuicideNeil has loads of walkthroughs for castle ESC programming. Check his sig out. Help me when I was getting started.

Now on the lookout for some flight sim game for my new joystick

Only 3s but still stripping diff pinion and crown. Shimmed correctly but I thnk the plastic diff case flexes under stress causing the crown and pinion to unmesh. MMM is insanely powerful

You making a petrol failsafe? Will have a root around a see if I can find some of my broken ones.

Go to yours FW upgrades tab and reinstall FW just in case a error has been made while instaling the FW to you MMM.

What firmware have you updated to? There is a rollback feature to go to a previous FW so try that first and see if that resolves your problem. To tell you the truth I think there is only 1 FW for rebranded castle mamba monster max esc and they HPI not keen on releasing any updates till through testing has been done.

Yeah. Had issues like this with my friends nitro engine. The spring turned out to be the fault. Like you said the clutch bell spins when started is pulled. It should do that. Stop it down and look for contact points between the clutch shoes and bell. You may just need to change the springs but no harm in checking the engine first.

My first RC was a cheap Acme Condor I got from a boot sale for I think

25 and married with 2 boys going to be 4 and 2 within next 2 weeks. Gonna be RC'ing till my fingers don't work anymore. Just need to hook up with a few bashers locally more often an I'll be set.

I take my 4 year old with me if I can so he can run after it. Rarely go on my lonesome. Do get a few weird mums telling me to go away but that was years ago. People Helier get used to it now. And now I have electric too I get even less hassle.

Are the springs on the clutch new? With the engine off does the clutch bell rotate freely? Any way you can lower the idle till it stops biting? Or are you already at you mimimum?

Why not just use this was a spare and for knowledge gathering. It will take alot of work to get back to running order so if he bought one in the mean time he could slowly rebuild this one and have added bonus of spare parts (if any are salvageable).

Beat me to it. Any more please let me know

PM replied to

That's what I do. They appear larger that way otherwise they hard to see on the iPhone screen.

BTTT

BTTT

Now £17 Posted

Lipo or NIMH. Just charge to be sure.

Is the motor water cooled? How does that work. Seen the Spartan setup. Is it similar? Looks nice though.

Ha ha. Figured it out. It's the Marcus Fenix MP DL. Still not been able to play it though. And developing labyrinthitis is not helping things.

Scalelectrix F1 Saitek Cyborg X