dwarfy

I mounted mine using body posts I had in my spares box. 1 off either side of the roll cage, 2 off the top of the roll cage and a single mount at the front off the shock tower.

I thought the more solid clear pipe needed to be the feed pipe to the bottom of the carb so that it doesnt crush under the suction from the engine and stop the fuel flow. The softer black pipe is the return to the take excess fuel back to the tank and is under slight pressure so doesnt need to have a hard wall like the flow pipe. This could be adding to the running problems. Try swapping the lines to the correct positions and see how you get on. To clarify........ Hard clear pipe sits in bottom of tank with clunk and runs to bottom connection on carb Soft black pipe just pokes through seal into tank so it doesnt sit in the fuel otherwise the return will effectively be blocked and as a consequence the flow to the carb will be poor. This line connects to the top of the carb.

I always deal with Rossendale Models. Its conveniently down the road from me but the advice and service is excellent so highly recommended from me!

Its an x-can mate. They usually have 2 stingers on the same side but this has been modified to have 1 each side. Its LOUD!!

There should be a socket head screw through the radio tray into the servo saver.

I know what you mean but I cant help thinking the wheels will crash the arches on rough ground & jumps. The Marder shell is a classic buggy shape but you could also consider the FG baja shell if you get the front bars for the roll cage, or change it to a monster truck! So many options with the Marder chassis.

I like both........

Yes that is the best way. When it lines up its right!

I did measure it at some point but cant remember!

The easiest way to tell is to look at the plastic side rails. If the chassis is bent they will bow out around where the fuel tank is. I have a pic of mine somewhere so will post it up so you can see what I mean. More difficult to tell with the bug tray though.

There was nothing wrong with the set up so had to be something simple. Watch this it will go back together and still rub lol!!!!!

Its the cranks down the sides that add the rigidity.

Notice the lump hammer in the 3rd pic to tease it back!!! Its easier to do if you fully strip the chassis but I did it this way by turning it over so the engine was facing the floor and resting the front of the chassis on 2 bits of 3x2 to keep the front crank up off the table. I used a shorter piece of 3x2 to protect the back of the chassis across where the bend was (so sideways across the chassis, if you have a plastic or hide mallet you wont need this) and hammered it back. Take your time rather than over doing it with the first hit! Once you have the main chassis straight you will need to fettle the front crank which is trial and error to get the all brace to line up with the servo saver.

No worries mate happy to help Check out the front brace as well and make sure the bolt through the servo saver is ok. Mine sheared after a big off....... Chassis was a bit out....... Stripped for straightening....... And back perfect again lol!! (until next time!).........

The wishbones are right Mike. I would possibly say its a bent chassis which is shortening the wheel base slightly and bowing out the tray. Easy to check, put a straight edge down the length of the chassis and you may find it is bent under the fuel tank. Its a common thing when they have been bashed hard.

Grass is horrible stuff!!

Thats what I said lol!! Just make a new brace as suggested above.

I have seen this before on a cheap copy and the hole in the engine mount is off centre causing the problem you have. Do you have a pic of the top of the mount showing the fixing hole? Looking at the first pic the hole in yours is towards the front rather than being in the centre

Cable brakes can be hard to set up and keep balanced. I found I was constantly adjusting mine so took them off and fitted the layshaft tuning brake. I would stick with the hydros personally rather than dropping down to an inferior system.

Its a Walbro 603 carb and all the parts are available to rebuild but probably best to replace. The 668 is as good as any and can be had for approx

The FG pipe fits under the 4wd bug shell without too much hassle

Showing off with the sunny weather!! Hope you had a good day out. Any pics?

I type the part no into the search box. Give them a bell they will sort you out.

http://www.rossmod.co.uk/search_suggest

Yeah looks like the pads have worn away. The standard disc and pads are pants even when set up properly, the tuning set makes a massive difference. Exhaust wise Im running an FG tuned pipe. Its far from the best pipe power wise but a decent all round performer and not to loud. If you have oil blowing onto the fuel tank the gasket has probably seen better days.