TNX_Pro

Hi I have a century chinook cx 2.4G and unfortunately the transmitter has developed cracks where the metal joysticks go into the control mechanism causing the sticks to jam. The problem is that to buy a new transmitter is not something i think worthwhile, although i considered a turnigy 9x but after investigating what rx the heli has i found it to be a gyro with built in receiver unit. The transmitter and receiver/gyro are made by Walkera, with the tx been a wk -2405 unit and rx a wk- rf38 v2.0. The question is will another tx work with this module or is the only option going to be purchasing a tx & rx combo plus a gyro, and if so what gyro's do you recommend? Thanks.

This better be a genuine rally car not another tarmac basher, they could have done those light pods bigger and in black too would look much better

Yes they do exist but most are homemade and use aircraft engines as there power plants

bend them back.

the esc will go into thermal mode if it gets too hot and limit power but the motor i wouldnt say any more than 70 C before damage is done.

One for the christmas list love it and it's 1/8 too and 4wd. Will look great next to my losi Desert truck

Hi all I've gone Brushless and Lipo Gone for the Sv2 and 4-pole 4600kv motor and using Overlander Sport Track 3250 2s batteries. It's on stock gearing at the moment and should be doing around 35mph, temps are good on motor and esc so will probably gear it up soon. One problem I could do with some help on though is the Lipo cut off on it. Initially it has a crazy amount of power but then it seems to start fading as if it's running Ni-Mh and if I continue till it starts crawling will cut out. Measuring the batteries voltages per cell shows them at around 3.5v each which is what my cut out is, but from what i hear the Sv2 has a 2 stage cut out where it will do this but it seems to be comming in too soon. Anyone have any info about the first stage of this cut out such as what voltage it activates at? or does it activate as soon as the battery hits 3.5v per cell then continue until the battery has a constant voltage of 3.5v per cell? Maybe I need better lipos that have a lower voltage drop under load or maybe my cut-off is too high? Thanks

Hi, one thing I can say is it will be slower on the same batteries as it will spool up slower with it been a lower Kv. Gearing wise I can't see why a lower Kv would be better unless it's uncontrollable now? Secondly will it run cooler on a lower Kv hard to say really depends on the gearing, but if you reduce the current it uses by going for a lower Kv then yes it should as long as it's geared accordingly. If it runs well why do you want to change it? The only way a lower Kv would be better is if you plan on 6s in the future, but then you'll just break more things

Yup defo louder and should help with cooling as it will act as a heatsink. power wise should get more low down power and top end, so a noticable increase all round

hmm I wonder what would happen if you got like 100 of these all wired onto one esc

Hi 80c is fine with the body off as I wouldn't be surprised if when run with the body on you see 95+. The problem with running too cold is that you cause excessive wear in the engine as it's very tight but when hot it loosens up a bit. Over the summer I did a bit of an experiment with my TNX and noticed that with body off it ran 20c cooler than with it on, but cooling holes in the body managed to get it to around an 10c rise. If it's running fine leave it you'll only get into problems trying to get it run to an exact temp but bare in mind the outside temp as the true reading inside the engine is probably hotter than that. Sounds strange that leaning it off is causing issues though it could be that it's running a lilttle lean, or you've managed to get the tuning spot on

No cut off but I know when to stop, used to lipos from my heli's. They do seem hot yes but same gearing as when it was on nimh and it's not really very fast lol can't see any reason for it to run much hotter on lipo

Hi just gone lipo from nimh and so have converted my TL-01 RA so a lipo stick pack will fit. It's running a sports tuned motor but the escs is getting to nearly 100 degrees C just wondered if this is ok :S never bothered measuring it's temp on nimh but since I went lipo I have been measuring the temps of everything The motor is also hitting around 80 degrees C but have no idea for a brushed setup the kinda temps I should be getting? It's a 7.4v pack so only a 0.2v increase but i understand the current is higher. Thanks for any help!

nice! I think what you've done here is given us an idea of what this new petrol version of the savage will be like

Not at all mine split on my 4.6 and i used some gasket cerment to fix it! still holding strong a year later.

Hi I have a Losi desert truck and am planning on only running it on 2s and was going to go for the Ezrun 60amp esc and 8.5 T 4000Kv motor but have since found these two on HobbyKing http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=17740 and the esc http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=17232. I'm thinking that the HK motor would be better suited with the truck than the Ezrun due to the higher Kv which will benefit it running on 2s, and the fact it's sensored should help with getting the traction down. Any opinions? reliable setup(with it been sensored will it break)? Also that esc looks strangely like an Xerun? Cheers

Well let me put it this way my savage with stock exhaust was pretty quick and would do wheelies easily then I put on a Tsais M25 Hard anodised exhasut set and it wheelied even more Better power throughout the RPM range and it should aid engine cooling slightly. Just make sure you get one that is suitable for your size of engine and will easily fit on. A longer pipe will give better power at higher RPM and a shorter one better low down power. HPI also do a ribbed one for the savage which is ment to improve the baffaling inside the pipe improving mid range power. I have a Tsais on my TNX too and again similar results will get front wheels off ground. It's really one of the first things you do to a nitro to improve performance

Hi sounds like a great idea mate just make sure you make it fairly light weight. It has been done before can't remember who made it but it retailed for around