Quantra

Yes mate, so good it was worth saying twice Seriously though it will be good to see you again! If anyone needs some rug racers related info or advice please just ask, I'm not fast enough to have winning secrets Something I will say now is it is worth buying/borrowing some spider green additive. I was using AME until tonight when I tried it again. Now our carpet is soaked with the stuff it doesn't seem to play too nice with AME or LRP... So spider green it is although I much preferred the consistency with AME sadly the grip just isn't there with it anymore =/

No problem. RC Disco is the UK distributor for xray so a very good place to get spares. I also like https://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/ as they offer a very efficient service. Something which has just come to mind are the rubber o-rings and diaphragms in the shocks and diff. I found they all expanded quickly and needed replacing pretty much every time I took the shocks/diff apart so it might be worth getting some of those.

If you are just comparing links whilst building to make them the same then I use vernier calipers and with the link off the car press it right into the back of the caliper against it to make sure it's straight. This won't give the correct measurement but it will be a more consistent measurement which is perfect for comparison.

If I remember correctly the '12 already has the gear diff? If not I'd suggest getting one of those. Otherwise they are robust cars and I wouldn't rush to buy a collection of spares unless you are breaking something regularly. I didn't break a thing on my T4 but some people I know broke spool outdrives regularly (some still do but it's down to using the wrong drive shaft or something). If you want to make the car even more robust then an xray hard bumper is a very worthwhile upgrade.

I'm the same as ratman unless I'm trying to tune with my shell. In which case I'll move it forwards for a more aggressive car or rearwards for something more stable. I then add foam to the bumper if needed so it always touches the shell. This really increases the lifespan of the shells. With both my T4 and A700L and a Mazda Speed 6 if I mount it so the front wheel arches line up it also touches the bumper. Coincidence I think not! I always cut wheel arches out on the line. If there is no line to follow I get an old wheel hold it in place on the outside of the shell and draw around it. It is something that takes practice. A number of my first shells had funny shape wheel arches, expanded so the wheels would clear. Now I am practiced I can get it so the wheel arches don't need expanding.

Go for something that is popular at the club you want to attend. Help and advice from your fellow racers will be invaluable as a beginner, it's much easier to get this help and advice if you drive the same car. Get something 2nd hand if funds are tight.

Yes 32's are available on the day at a slightly discounted price... Can't remember what off the top of my head though xD This is what it says on central booking: Control Tyres

If you're new to Sorex this is my tyre prep (I might even lend you some additive/cleaner on the day ) Swap tyres from side to side, never front to rear. Clean tyres with mootie tyre cleaner. Cook tyres at 55deg for 5-10mins. Apply AME carpet additive. Cook tyres at 55deg for 10-15mins or until dry. Allow tyres to cool for at least 5mins before race. Vary this last step depending on grip level, so first round maybe don't cool at all but last round let tyres reach room temp before race. This method gives a very consistent tyre throughout the 5 mins which is what I prefer. More aggressive heating or using a more aggressive additive such as spider green gives me faster laps at the start of the race but slower at the end.

My motor settings for Rug Racers: Team Wave 17.5T Timing: 0-1 FDR: 3.6-3.8 FDR and timing depend on the layout, when the straight has sweepers I go low FDR, low timing and when the straight has less sweeper I go high FDR, high timing. This weekend is low FDR, low timing. Not sure if that combo will fit in the T4 but if you have some spurs and pinions to hand it can be worked out. Fit a big spur and the biggest pinion that will fit without the mesh being too tight. Add up the teeth on the spur and pinion. Any other spur + pinion with the same number of teeth or less will fit. The same can be done for smallest combination too.

Ooh yeah would go well with a Haribo.

Ok the pink patchy one is the new mazda but thought I'd show the TSX too which is the metallic green I made by accident. Oh the wing on the mazda is an old one from a speed 6, the one it came with is very similar just a bit straighter along the bottom edge. I put the holes in the new wing badly so am going to use this one.

Also should have said I had a bit of fun today painting my 2 new shells. Not done it for a while but wanted to make these cheap as they are just to test so I used up all the partly used cans of paint I've been saving for some reason. So I have 2 fairly patchy and textured looking shells, don't think either has a solid coat of paint on it xD Ah well, discovered tamiya translucent light blue backed with gold makes a nice metallic green.

Richard.S you simply must buy an iCharger or you can't come to my birthday party If you want looks then I'd take muchmore over skyrc any day. Sky RC don't have the best rep around here, certainly not for reliability. When I got my iCharger I was pretty close to going for a muchmore hybrid (newer one) but now I'm only glad when I pit with my friend who has one as I use it for my power supply and just have this tiny iCharger taking up room. I already got some SMC batteries now, only heard good things about them and will try them out once I get my hands on the new car and build it up.

Cool! Thought I'd better ask since I've totally forgotten who said they were coming to which rounds. BTW I've recently moved my pits to the other end of the hall from last year so I can pit with the other Awesomatix drivers, I guess that will only make sense to you though xD

Hehe Jony Nitro I like how the link in your sig takes you to the SMC batteries but I've never seen them in stock at chubbies. I thought they were a myth until I hunted some down else where xD

You've been fooled. iCharger is without doubt one of the best and certainly not like the generic 4 button chargers. Take a look at the manual that should shed some light, it's quite a beastly document. I've not had Hyperion myself but has always been highly rated but even my friends who swore by them are now using iChargers too =] Saw Hyperion pretty cheap here: http://beamcat.com/collections/chargers And I bought iCharger from here: http://electriflyer.co.uk/category/chargers/icharger/

Just wondering what body shells everyone uses? What have you tried? What's your favourite? I've always used a Mazda speed 6 and never tried anything else. Now I have a Blitz TSX and a Mazda 6GX which I will try this weekend =]

Do take a look at iChargers and Hyperion. Best in the game!

Always Sanwa for me! Still loving my SDX 801's, they aren't the latest or greatest but they do a bloody good job.

Anyone coming down this weekend?

Got mine from demon. DMS racing have them a bit cheaper.

Sorry I've not been paying attention. Rug Racers rules are BRCA motors, there is no rule for ESC AFAIK so long as it blinks for blinky it's ok. The motor rule only exists to avoid the Corally situation we had a few years ago where it became obvious one motor was distinctly more powerful than the rest so most people ended up buying a 2nd motor. Shame in some ways as it does rule out cheapies like Turnigy.

I have a fleta pro ready to go in my new car when that's released. All I can say so far is the packaging looks very nice xD

I used to use one of these spacers and panaracer spurs. http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info.php?cPath=51_98_117_350&products_id=13628 There is also a 1.5mm spacer but I think that's the same thickness as the plastic one in the kit. With both spacers any spur with the 3 hole pattern should fit. Take your pick from RW, Panaracer, Xenon etc but wherever possible buy black spurs. It's not racist they're just stronger

Agree with David Allen. Droop settings seem low and even and shock oils are worth looking at. I like the same oils f + r and in general run thicker front than rear if any split. For droop I normally run 6F, 5R but will go to 5.5R if needs be. May also be worth looking at the rear camber as it's fairly standard to run 1.5F and 2R. But if the instability is in a straight line increasing camber will likely make it worse not better. It's worth trying one thing at a time and making a note of what it has done not only in remedying the problem but to the handling in general so you get a feel of what all these settings do to your car.