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Yeah it is, mine is rammed full of tools. It's something I bought when I first started RC before I was really racing. I used to keep my tools in a jiffy bag! Anyway its one of my oldest and bestest purchases =]

I'm always itching to get another car. I just love building them... Awesomatix kinda sent me a 2nd EVO by mistake that I have to return but... I'm now tempted to pay for it just so I can build it >< *checks bank balance* EDIT: Damn you bank balance!

I use the fastrax one but it's not much better at

Looks good, I quite like the orange windows. Have you use the GW primer with success before? I'd expect it to crack and fall off. I tried painting my first shell with some GW spray paints and that's how it ended =/

When you are getting started you can't beat what you already got. Enjoy what you have and when it is holding back or you just can't resist getting something new then upgrade to a new chassis. Don't put money into the first chassis you have, it will be great to get you going as it is. When the time comes you will have a much better idea of what to get next. Same for motors etc. I think it's best to start with a silver can and learn to hit apexes and control the car. Then up it to something faster when it's holding you back. There is nothing wrong with turning up for your first meeting and being laps and laps slower than everyone else. There is something awesome about turning up for your first meeting and driving clean laps and hitting apexes, not barriers =] I see it a lot with people getting started (and I was the same) they want to buy shiny things and put in a motor to make them go super fast but this often ends up more frustrating than fun as they end up with a chassis they don't really know about and more power than they can control. I remember, when I was starting, taking my shiny new 13.5 gear and pulling it out my car to put the silver can back in and going a lap faster, simply because I could control the power from the silver can but 13.5 was way too big a jump for me. Basically my advice is one step at a time and enjoy it =]

Snapped belts are commonly from them rubbing somewhere alongs the line. So check that it is not fouling anything. What happens is the belt is rubbed on one side then the fibres that make it strong start to get cut and when you don't have enough fibres left it snaps. I have heard of people sealing the edges of belts with super glue but I've never done it. When I had belts I'd make sure they weren't baggy and weren't skipping, then used them to tune the car It is one of those things that in the end you can do by feel but at first you have to trial and error and might cost a bit in pulleys if the belt skips and damages them. Faster motors will want them tighter and I think it's important to run the front belt a touch tighter than the rear. This is so when you come out of a corner and get on the throttle the rear wheels don't get the power before the fronts, whilst the front belt takes up the slack. If you don't have the front a touch tighter then your car will be rear wheel drive for a moment as you exit the corner. Really though the answer is to buy an Awesomatix and forget all about belt tension

Everyone booked into the next round should have just had an email. The sports centre doubled booked us so we have had to move the meeting forwards by a week to 2nd March. If you can't make it please contact Malc Hall (details on central booking) to arrange a refund.

Haha yup, mine didn't stand a chance though!

Please check out my article on the Awesomatix EVO & Aluminium chassis build & review here: http://www.thercracer.com/2014/02/awesomatix-evo-aluminium-chassis-build.html

Sorry to go OT but I noticed your location is local. Do you race at HRCC, HNMC?

Have you tried taking the balls out and replacing with sandpaper or maybe something a bit smoother for a bit more slip?

It should be this one or something close.

I need more twitchy less snappy. Think I should have just been braver with set up as the small tweaks I made helped just not enough.

Not a bad idea TBH, could have kept me racing yesterday if mine wasn't soldered in when it broke. Not that I'm going to do anything different with a new one.... What fan should I get? Need something from the UK.

Nice one! Let's have some pics =] How was the build? I'm still waiting on mine, I'm being a good and patient team driver for them but it's not much good if you now want tips on it from me.... Really hoping mine gets posted this week, I got the alloy chassis and some RC bling ready to rock out an Awesom(atix) build

Do it! Bring a 17.5 incase there is a space on the day like it happened today. If boosted is too fast do what Jimmy Madison did and run 13.5 blinky, he was in the A final with Olly Jeffereies, David Spashett etc. It must be the Bitty Design Nardo shell he runs I was driving pretty pants today, I never really got it together. After an unfortunate side impact in Q4 which hit my electrics I chose to put the transmitter down and pick the mic up for the finals. Got to do some work on my car to make it feel better on the big tracks. It works great on the smaller club tracks but today just seemed to lack response and had a tendency to lose the backend when I pushed hard. Nonetheless I had a great day and it was great to see you, I'm already looking forward to the next one!

Hope you guys enjoyed your day it was a pleasure to have ratman and EpicLURcher along. Let's do it again soon =D

I'm pitting next to the 2nd set of doors. Go through them I'm immediately on the left. See you tomorrow =]

Durango I'm already hearing mixed reports. Something to do with lack of quality to keep price down??? Not sure on the full details, not seen one yet. Loving the Nardo, really much stronger than I thought it would be since I don't normally use light weight. Handling from it is superb, just makes me smile to drive it apart from anything else!

I'd twist the ends together and solder straight to battery terminals at ESC. I used to do this with the fan wires and capacitor wires but recently I have been soldering the fan to the capacitor as it makes for neater wiring on my car.

Just read my post on steering symmetry. Just got one thing slightly wrong. Should measure the inside wheel when setting symmetry not outside. Basically it's a bit better in my mind to measure the one that turns the most as this will be limited by steering lock whilst the one that turns less will be limited by ackermann. Glad you got your car working well. Remember set up is all about keeping the tyre in contact with the track with the best/largest contact patch possible. If you ask me even when adding weight you gain more grip from the increased contact patch rather than the additional force pushing the tyre into the ground (pure speculation of course, I don't think the facilities to measure contact patch exist in the RC world?).

OMG want the pink one =x Does anyone know if they come prepainted. I've never had a mini z, will they run OK on the carpet in my living room, just for a bit of fun?

Are you coming down with someone then? I mean and they are staying to race/pit for you?

I should be pitting by the 2nd set of doors this time but won't know for sure until Sat eve. I can leave a message on here but it will be a case of get in as early as you can and get a spot as close as you can. Last round there was a big queue waiting for doors to open so they could get their favourite pit spots. If I can I will try and reserve a space where we are pitting but it sounds like we are going back to how we always used to pit in which case our tables will be rammed. I'll do my best! If we can't pit together I'm sure we can get close. For springs 2.7, 2.9 and TSHOX yellow springs are commonly used. For anti roll bars 1.4mm front and either 1.2mm or 1.3mm rear. Really though it's about what you prefer.

I'm not the guy with the answers on this one but if memory serves isn't the AE TC3/4 ( I forget which one) the popular chassis for breaking speed records? Have a look in some of the 100MPH threads on here, I'm sure those chassis will be the best bet. I'd guess that most if not all chassis will need modification to take 3S. Also a big bag of spare parts will be useful! I used to do fun drag races with my mate at the industrial estate using TT01's with 6.5T motors and all the turbo. We never ran our batteries flat, we always stopped racing because we had broken our cars and were taking them home in carrier bags. Big fun if you expect the breakages =]