Quantra

Go with whatever is popular where you are going to race it. Even with the best of the best chassis it helps to have people around who have already figured out the set up for your track and who can help with advice and parts.

Auction ends today at 7:30pm. Still looking cheap.

It's what we found too. The stock classes look like they are a good idea for beginners to get everyone started on similar equipment but end up with experienced guys squeezing everything they can out of their cars and makes for a very competitive and closely fought class. For beginners we find they want run what you brung as it's so common the car is bought before visiting the club. This way they can then choose to move up to a stock class after having had a go with whatever car they already have. It's always an interesting dilema if you ask me. On the one hand letting beginners run what they like can lead to vast differences in speed whilst on the other hand introducing a lot of rules for the beginner can put them off wanting to race at all, especially if the car they have bought and lovingly built is not allowed or they need to spend money to make it fit the rules. So I think the run what you brung at first then move into a stock class without too many rules is the best way for us.

That's my photon you are bidding on =]

Auction ends tomorrow, looks like it could be going for a bargain price!

I'd be looking for a 2nd hand top end chassis. Keep an eye out for deals on the usual suspects ie xray, trf, schumacher. BTW are you bidding on a TOP photon ex on ebay? Someone is with a very similar username to your msuk username.

What's your budget for the chassis?

The awesomatix GD1 gears are spec r size and they do some steel ones. I don't know if any others exist but if they I do I'll bet they are a bit cheaper http://shop.awesomatix.com/index.php?productID=889 http://shop.awesomatix.com/index.php?productID=890

When we moved from 21.5T turbo to 17.5T blinky I was always voting we did 13.5T blinky instead. It's a great speed, lots of feeling in the motor too. Only got to race it at a proper event once and loved it, made the A final that day too. Still wish we went with 13.5T blinky now.

Sounds like you are having fun =] I went racing last night and scored the 2nd fastest lap of the day, just 0.02s off the fastest. Shame the final sucked though as my reward for getting the jump off the line and placing my car along side 3rd place was for 3rd place to drive like I wasn't there and smash my car into the barriers... And they are meant to be the better driver xD Oh well, learning more and more how the top boys drive, I don't like it but I'll have to get used to it =] Other than that a really good race, first time I have been back on pace with the top boys since my break, still more tweaking to do with the awesomatix though, it can go even faster =D

Spec-r gears aren't great. Over shim or under shim and they go even with 17.5 blinky. Honestly I'd look to upgrade to something that uses larger gears more similar to the xray ones or put steel gears in the spec-r.

Great choice! I think everyone should start with xray because they are so nice out of the box, often only needing a little tuning for preference. I had a great time with my T4 and hope you will too =]

Looking good =] Also just wanted to say should anyone ever need to I have found WTF customer service the best I've experienced in RC so far. Really good service, they want to look after their racers =]

If you are still finding the car too twitchy and responsive I'd advise the following... In general you need to make the front of the car softer, roll a little more, roll more progressively or a combination of all three. Front shock oil is probably the answer and it may be worth experimenting with rear shock oil too. Going to a thicker oil will slow down the transition from side to side. More front droop could also be very useful. If you are running small droop and the chassis hits the droop screw during side roll the roll centre goes down quickly at this point. This can give the feeling that the car is throwing it's weight from side to side. I'd probably start here. Unwinding the droop screw will also allow the car to roll more and might not be good for on power steering so experiment. Lay down the front shocks and/or use a softer spring. Both will soften the front end and make the transitions smoother, laying the shocks down will also make it more progressive. A longer front camber link or more spacers under the camber link (if it can't go longer) will lower the roll centre and make the car roll more. I use lower roll centres when the grip is high to reduce a little traction and make the car more gentle to drive. Longer link is my preference in this situation since it will also reduce camber gain more which will make the car less aggressive. Ackerman may or may not be the answer. For most tyres there is a sweet spot with ackerman that gives optimum slip angles as the wheel turns. If the set up you have is for rubber then it is definitely worth experimenting here as you are on foam tyres. If possible change it at the hubs to start with as this is a bigger change and then fine tune it with the spacers on the steering rack.

Great condition, built and tested on carpet only. 99p no reserve, please check out my ebay auction: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=231182747786

There's a lot of options. I guess the TB01 won't handle anything too fast? Does he just want to get it running again with basic (cheapest) stuff or make it go faster? Does he have a budget? He could go brushless and lipo battery but I'm not sure it's worth it in this case, maybe a basic brushed set up would be better?

Yeah, plenty of different motors getting love around here recently: Team Wave Eclipse, LRP, Muchmore Fleta and Trinity Killshot. I'm going to try a Hobbywing soon but don't know how good they are yet. From that list I'd probably just avoid the trinity since they have been known to expire but only when pushed, really can't go wrong with any of them.

Maybe if you posted some pics we could be of more help. Do check through the manual and make sure all the details are correct. Could it be that you turned the eccentric the wrong way or is it possible to install it upside down? I'm not familiar with the car myself, perhaps it's worth posting over at rctech.net as it might be a simple answer to someone who has the same car: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/771152-team-associated-tc6-2-touring-car-49.html

More parts = more parts that can fail. I've never broken one though.

Don't know about the Schumachers but they were in my Tamiya and Xray and a standard affair in my Awesomatix. They remove/reduce chatter close to full lock, which can help the car rotate mid corner as well as take some stress away from the spool outdrives and in general give you a bit more front grip and make the car smoother. Worth it in my opinion =]

Well we are done with Rug Racers for 6 months now. Thanks to everyone who came and raced. It was great to meet some of you and great to see some of you again. I hope to see more of you all next time! =D

Doors open at 7:30am. Practice starts around 8am. Suggest getting there as early as pos as there is usually a queue to get it in, as ratman says everyone wants their favourite pit spot! This is a straight copy paste of the info on CB:

Yeah, even better with the windows like that. Looks the business!

I gear the team wave 3.6-3.8 depending on what the entry/exit of the straight look like. This track will be a 3.8. For the Fleta motor gear down 1 pinion so 3.9 or 4.0 will do it =]