Mike1970

RC Racing TV are making a mini docutmentary at the Zenoah challenge cup.

Cleaning the inside of exhausts can be fun. I use Nitromores in the green tin - fill it to the brim, leave it for 2 or 3 days,empty it out then flush with water. I like the raw look of the various pipes (my fav being the titanium pipes) would it worth looking for some vht clear laquer?

In the silencer of the old FG.Mielke pipe, they used a white (to start with) wadding - it was almost like compressed cotton, I'm not sure what it was made of though

Only a few days left - this will be the biggest largescale indoor meeting yet. Still a few places left, sadly there are not as many Baja drivers taking up the challenge but the amount of new racers is just what we'd hoped for.

The cover I have is the FG wet weather cover. It's bigger than the filter which means while the air gets re directed, the full filter is still in play. It's the redirection that makes the difference to the induction noise, the engine gets enough air, it's just delivered differently.

It's not only exhaust noise thats the problem, induction noise is AS much of a culprit. Last year in Spain at the Euros, people were under threat of penalties for excessive noise. As you can imagine, all the cars there (regardless of make) had tuned pipes, had tuned engines and due to the heat had more holes in them than Man UTD's back 4 - they were under scrutiny and had to make changes. Some people had made airboxes prior to the event and passed without a problem, others were making them out of pop/water bottles - they all pretty much passed. I realise that this is on my Leopard, but I'm sure you'll get the idea.

patience is my downfall.

With the right car and set up - yes it makes a big difference, as does blipping the throttle or braking in the air.

I did it bud, a mate of mine did the vinyl, I just stuck it on and painted it with rattle cans. I could do better with practice and an air brush.

These 2 from the on road Euros in Austria. More of my off road car

Still one of the best and most popular cars around. If your boy doesn't like the driver, put a beetle shell, MT shell, ST shell or a marder shell on.

If you send your complete engine as it stands, then yes they could tune it - provided it's all there (most would have to sevice it though) I use Oddified engines and I know people send thier engines for tuning and servicing. If a tuner doesn't do anything to the covers, carb or ignition module then yes it can be a good way to go.

The only way I would buy a tuned engine is buying a complete unit - this way, I know that every part has been tested and it will deliver what the tuner says it will. If you start buying bits of tuned engines, you might not be getting your monies worth if the donor parts you have are not up to scratch. Having said that, if thats what you can afford then go for it. Any engine tuner worth his salt, can build an engine to your spec - a specific car and for the use you have in mind.

90 drivers booked in - only 20 places left.

"Little is more"

nimh packs are fine if they're in good order. I tink most of the guys use life or nimh packs. Check the ebay link, there is achance that the organisers will have a couple of transponders for sale.

You will need your own charger - what sort of pack do you have in your car and tranny? I have a spare if you're on Nimhs or i you're on lipo or life then you could either buy one before from Freeprawn, Rossmods or any other good retailer on line or at the track, one that runs off 12v/240v is best in my opinion. This is the kind of thing you're looking for. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MYLAPS-AMB-Personal-Transponder-RC-Racing-/251430064360?hash=item3a8a6650e8 Most races last 10 minutes for the heats and upto 30 minutes for the finals.

Hiya Wally, there are people booked in with the same car who will be happy to help set your car up and give you any advice you ask for. You will need a transponder to race but there are "hand out" units available. You'll need a mounting position on the car but that wont take too long to sort out, most people will have something available to make one. Not sure on the start time, that will be on the website - having your car ready to put on the track for 8.30 would be a good thing though. As for hotels, there is a list on the website of places to stay nearby. Bring a 6' table or keyboard stand, 12v leisure battery if you have one - 240v is in the pits but it's in limited supply. There is a great cafe and bar on site so some coin of the realm will be required. The most important thing, is come with an open mind, be prepared to ask questions and introduce yourself to anyone and everyone. Don't come expecting to win - but don't think that just because you're new, you'll be walked all over. Hope this helps, feel free to ask anytnig else.

Racing or bashing, it doesn't make the slightest difference. Anyone can drive any car so it looks wild and out of control.

I have to say that I disagree guys. Having raced 2wd and 4wd, I would say that the both have +&- points in a wide range of racing circumstances - the main one being that on wet astro turf, the 4wd is better - but to say one is better than the other in general, is rubbish. Both 2wd and 4wd classes are exciting and challenging for many reasons such as drifting, understeer, oversteer and generally having to learn to drive both cars differently.

I think "fashion" has a lot to do with this. When the Baja style cars came out, they quickly became the more popular car - if you read back through years of forum chatter. With the introduction of another mass seller, the Losi 5ive and the new Losi buggy, I think the trend has moved over to 4wd. You also have the touchy subject of clone cars - not an area I'm well up on because I'm a racer but it's obvious that it is a big talking point. On the racing side of things, 4wd is making the 2wd cars/driver sit up and take notice as it is becoming more and more popular every meeting.