BeeB

Thanks guys, re-calibrating did the trick.

Hi all I've been out of the hobby for a while, but decided on a whim today to get my RC's off the shelf where they've been languishing for years. Since the battery in the Rustler seemed to be the only one on board with the whole 'holding charge' thing, I had a go at running it, but it doesn't move. Steering servo works fine, transmitter/receiver have no problems I can see (have tried putting the steering servo into the throttle channel and it turns with the trigger) but still movement and no noise suggesting the motor is even trying to turn. Some preliminary googling suggests the ESC is toast but I'm 99% sure it still worked when I put it away and I don't see how it could break by doing nothing, unless it's just one of those things. It's the VXL model so its running a VXL3s Thanks

Or you could not burn your fingers by shelling out

Axial SCX10's are a good place to start - durable (enough for crawling anyway), quite capable out of the box, easy to use and there is a plethora of shiny metal things you can bolt to them Quite a hefty price tag, but they are worth it Haven't had any problems with mine other than the ones I created myself

ok so nowt major then (hopefully)

Hi all Bit of a noob to nitro, I've been told that the engine in a car I'm interested in buying needs a new button plug as the thread has given up, lowering the compression (effectively) Was wondering whether this is a normal thing to happen or if it means it's not been used/cared for correctly? Many thanks in advance for your wisdom

Did you follow the advice given in the last topic on that issue? Not being rude just wondering

Check the slipper clutch? might be loose although I'm not sure if they can get that loose tbh Edit - not sure if it has one though

Found the battery for the SCX10, had a happy hour of plush suspension articulation Then the soldering connecting the fuse to the esc switch fell off Funnily enough, this happened on the last Mtroniks esc I owned as well...

I believe that it charges at 5 amps?says charge rate 5a on modelsport my powercells say charge at 'up to' 4 amps (mine are 7 cell 3000mah ones) just in case this helps

Broke a front bearing carrier by attaching it. Broke 2 more yesterday by means of 'Fence'. These things have the rigidity of cheddar I only bought them on Monday

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/176615-recommend-me-a-balance-charger/ have a look at the chargers in this thread, should get you what you're looking for

In response to the Vantage/Carnage question, it depends what you want from your RC. The Carnage has have more ground clearance so will be better at getting over obstacles and will be able to tackle rougher terrain much more easily The Vantage will be more nimble & possibly faster (due to it being smaller and lighter) but wont be as good on rougher stuff, and may get stuck particularly in grass (depending on length) as the chassis will drag as a side note, Modelsport have an ex-display Vantage for sale - might save you a few quid

In which case, as usual, I'm being a muppet

I have been looking at the FTX models on the Modelsport website and I don't think that they come with lipo's? Unless somewhere else is selling a bundle or something with lipo's? Edit: or have I misread your post?

Not too sure about the FTX models, I would agree with the above Lipo's are fine as long as they are charged correctly - I would get a better charger as the ones out of the box are usually trickle chargers and are very very slow although the charger will (at least should) charge them safely, a charging bag is always a good idea Some ESC's do have low-voltage cut off, I'm not sure about the models you mentioned but if they don't then external cut-off's can be purchased relatively cheaply You do need to be careful with lipo's though because if they discharge below 3v per cell (I think) then they become useless RC gods please feel free to correct me if (or when) I'm wrong Edit: The lipo guide thread at the top has a lot of info on the subject - check it out

I think you are probably right At least the ESC seems cooler after some more full throttle usage, but the motor the same Although this is just my opinion, I should probably get an IR temp gun to check

Ok, so I was wrong I might opt to get the optional fan for the VXL but at

Yes, obviously but surely not as much is what I meant Edit: As in; If I was doing constant full throttle speed runs then it would heat up more than just slow, reasonably gentle driving Edit 2: at least that's what I assume, although I could be (and probably am ) wrong

Ok, thanks for the explaination - I believe lipo's have a more flat discharge rate so this isn't the case with them? I'll take it out again later anyway and report on the temperatures - I'll try and find a way of measuring them

Haven't got any lipo's, been meaning to get some but I can't justify the cost to myself not before I've got more tyres for the Rustler anyhoo Why'd NiMH's run hotter? just wondering, can't think why