djspink

From everything I've read about Ansmann you're better off steering well clear. It's definately a downgrade from an ST pro.

Looks pretty nice and should be very light. I'm not convinced by the battery pack located under the fuel tank but as long as the connector is easy to get to it shouldn't be a problem. I've never had to actually take a battery out of any of my cars.

Could have been too lean. To be fair though my old hyper engine ate glow plugs too, just continue with tuning and see how it goes. Also remember to get the engine upto temperature before you start tuning and do it gradually. Once you've done an adjustment, run it for 30 seconds or so. All of the hyper engines I've seen have been notoriously difficult to tune. One minute they can be fine and the next it's running lean. I'd be a bit concerned about the coil jamming in the P&L in case there's any damage to the internals, if it starts cutting out randomly I'd say it's time for a new engine.

I think that is the recommended plug for the engine. Did you use the copper shim that it came with?

Lean or rich, no glow plug should lose it's coil! Could be a few things, too lean, forgot to use shim, wrong glow plug type........ Start by leaning it off at least half a turn then fine tune from there. If it's still blowing glow plugs use the engine manufacturers recommended glow plug or see your LHS. What engine is it btw?

Are you confusing pinch with compression? If you replaced the piston/sleeve every time an engine lost it's pinch you'd be pretty broke. All engines will lose pinch which is no bad thing, pinch is what gets less and less as the engine is run in as the piston and liner bed in. A loss of pinch puts less stress on the engine and it runs cooler. Now if it loses compression that's a different matter. If an engine loses compression after 20 litres I'd be sending the engine back to the manufacturer or learning how to tune an engine properly

I'm fairly certain that the shock towers don't fit

That bag is fine but you'll only get one car in there mate. Not seen any hauler that can accommodate 2 cars. Only option I can think of is that hauler plus a dedicated car bag.

If you have 2.4ghz then the system usually has a failsafe built in and installing a 3rd party one won't actually work. I had this issue with a couple of hyper 7's I bought. The failsafes I'd installed wouldn't override the one built into the rx. Take the ones you've installed out and stick with the built-in ones. Also have to agree with setting full brake as a failsafe position. It's not going to do your servo any good at all. Setting it to neutral position is absolutely fine.

Once you start leaning off the high speed needle the clutch will engage sooner and acceleration will be much better. Unfortunately when initially running an engine in you have to give it lots of revs to get it going and for someone new to this, it can seem as if the engine or clutch is faulty as there's a severe lack of performance and it sounds bloody horrible! Don't worry though, stick at it, put a few tanks through it then start leaning it off.

All depends on what someone is prepared to pay but I highly doubt you'll get much more than

New engine running rich will need a lot of revs to engage the clutch, it's quite common. Don't worry about having to do it as it will have so much fuel running through it, the engine will be well lubricated and cool. You'll have to do this every time from a standing start but once it's actually moving it shouldn't take much throttle to keep it moving.

The ST Pro is a beast. It weighs quite a lot for a pro truggy but it's tough and very reliable. You have the pro version so you shouldn't need to upgrade anything on it at all.

The hyper 21 engines aren't much better tbh. Always chasing a tune and mine lost compression after 2 gallon! If it were me, I'd buy a cheap roller (the basic car is fairly robust with a couple of upgrades) and use the remaining money to buy a reliable engine and servos. CNC shock towers are a must if you're bashing hard.

Also helps to put a couple of drops down the carb if it's gonna be stood for a while.

I suppose the nearest ones would be NDOR at J26 and DRCORC in Willington near Derby. Both tracks have a website with details on how to get there.

Sounds like it's still too rich. Returning an engine back to manual settings usually means a rich setting that the engine should be run in on. Try leaning the bottom end out gradually till it idles then lean the hsn till you get a good top end speed. A good indicator of a rich engine is fuel / oil coming out of the exhaust. Lean off until only a tiny amount of unburnt fuel is spitting out of the exhaust. At that point it's rich enough to keep the engine cool and lubricated without sacrificing performance.

At stock yes, it will be set rich and therefore the car will not accelerate cleanly and is probably the cause of your engine stalling. My guess is that even when it's up to temp, you can't leave the car idling for long before it either cuts out on its own accord or it cuts out when you hit the throttle. Ideally you need to pre-heat the engine anyway, particularly if it's new. You're putting a lot of unnecessary stress on that engine starting from cold with the amount of pinch that the engine still has.

Right, if you freewheel the car (with the car switched off) does it roll ok and is the meshing between the clutch bell and spur gear (centre diff) ok (no locking up or slipping)? If thats fine and the engine idles ok then it sounds like the engine is far too rich and needs leaning off very slightly on the high speed needle until the car moves. I recently broke in an Alpha engine that was too rich to actually get up any kind of incline. A word of caution though, when I say gradual, I mean a 12th of a turn at a time clockwise. Once it starts moving (albeit pretty poorly and it will sound nasty) stop leaning and start running in circles. Do it for a tank, set piston to BDC and allow to cool to room temperature. Then fill her up, start it, lean it off a touch more (maybe 2 hours clockwise) and do the same again. Rinse and repeat until you get to the point where the car has very good top end speed with a nice trail of smoke coming from the exhaust. Ps, if the engine revs, the flywheel is definitely moving. Its always rotating once the engine is started.

Sounds like the meshing is out. Is the engine loose at all on the mounting? Lost any screws on the underside of the chassis? Loosen the engine mounting screws from under the chassis and pull the engine away slightly from the spur. This should free it up. There's a small window between a good mesh and a bad one. Too close and it'll lock up, too far and it revs but no drive.

If you left it idling for a minute then it probably got loaded with fuel and cut out. Try blipping the throttle every 10 seconds or so to clear the engine out or turn up the idle a little more. You can turn it back down once you start running the car on the ground.

Sounds like it probably is the clutch unless the engine has moved across and isn't meshed properly. Is it new? Usually if the clutch springs are broke then the engine will stall. If it's a new clutch/shoes then they might be slipping. Get someone to hold the car on the floor while you rev it as it helps to bed to shoes in. Only other thing i can think of is broken driveshaft but then the spur gear would rotate..........

Let me get this straight. The engine starts and idles but when you accelerate the car doesn't move?

I'd have to agree with the above. New pullstarts aren't exactly cheap and (from my experience) don't last very long. The key to using a starter box is set up. Line up the starter box wheel with the flywheel on your car then adjust the pegs as necessary so the car cannot move about on the box. It should be just a case of putting the car on the box, push down and bingo. They also make starting your car much easier in the winter months.

The Hyperstar is Hobao's new pro spec racing chassis. The drivers at CML are getting some great results with it. At the 8/11 midlands regional series it makes the A-final every time. In my opinion it's better than the hyper 9 due to the new front end steering system which is practically the same as Mugen MBX-6 system.