GorillaZilla

E-revo is a really old design now, and it shows. The summit is still quite interesting if you are not into outright brushless speed, due to the remotely lockable diffs and multiple speed gearbox, also shiftable from the transmitter. So you can crawl a little, and bash a little. But yeah, It it's E-revo vs Kronos..... And you drop them into the rage cage? The Kronos is the only one that will be driving away....

If you're getting lipos get a couple of these and remove the rubber seals to prevent pressure buildup if a Li-Po gets uppity https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ammo-Box-Ammo-Can-Tool-Box-Storage-Box-Ex-Army-Ammunition-Boxes-Grade-2/124009699278?hash=item1cdf8dd7ce:g:D54AAOSwFl9e0ese One for charging your Lipos in, the other for storing the rest. Costs buttons and gives peace of mind.

Good thing you mentioned that, someone might have mistook "Just don't drain them below 3.0V" as to set their LVC to 3.0v. Yikes. I use one of these for anyone else reading https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8S-RC-LED-AZ-Checker-Low-Voltage-Lipo-Battery-Tester-Buzzer-Indicator-Alarm/264565280082?epid=933677624&hash=item3d9951cd52:g:BvYAAOSwcuNd8vTG I have a oblong chunk of firm foam the same width and length of the batteries and about a Centimeter thick on top of my LiPos in the car, so I can strap down the LiPo alarm on top of the foam with the same straps that secure the battery, is also a convenient way to secure the balance lead so it's not flapping around and getting itself chewed up in the drivetrain...

Don't drain em more than half just for the break in, after the break in you can drain em 100% and use normally. Just don't drain them below 3.0v per cell after the break in if you can help it, They are actually a lot more robust than Li-Po in that regard and can actually survive serious over discharge, but best to take it easy on em regardless.

I'd get 4S atleast if you want performance equivalent to Nitro, And nah, 4200 30C is plenty. Also you can save a bit if you try hobbyking, Especially if you are buying more than one as the shipping does not go up much as you add more. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-compact-4200mah-4s2p-30c-lifepo4-pack.html Another thing, not many people mention this, but Life batteries benefit massively from a break in period, kind of like running nitro. For the first 20 cycles don't fully charge them, just like 90% charge, and don't discharge them below 40% of their capacity. And don't go full throttle for the first 5 cycles. Bit of a pain, but otherwise they puff and die for no apparent reason, all mine did the first time because I did not know this. After that PITA though, they are brilliant and last a lot longer than LiPos, 1000 Charge/discharge cycles vs 500 of lipos. On the other hand, if you want to make worrying about Li-Pos a thing of the past, get a couple of Ammo cans, pull out the rubber seals to stop pressure build up should a lipo let loose and store em in an outside shed on a stone tile https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ammo-Box-Ammo-Can-Tool-Box-Storage-Box-Ex-Army-Ammunition-Boxes-Grade-2/124009699278?hash=item1cdf8dd7ce:g:D54AAOSwFl9e0ese Cheap as chips and well proven, as they can handle HUGE lipo fires, with a big pile of BIG batteries in them as you can see in the video in my sig. One for Charging, one for storing the rest of your lipos in. As the most likely time a Li-Po can go is when charging, and you don't want a charging accident taking out ALL your lipos. Good for transporting them in your car too, with a stone tile under. Worst that will happen is you need to pull over and open the doors and boot to let the smoke out. Take both cans and split your Li-Pos between em, so if the worst happens you can carry on to your bash site and run anyway..... All in all a pretty Robust solution.

Oh yeah, they handle it easily. Don't get warm at all. Lower voltage pushes less amps, so you can get away with a lower total AMP discharge rate on the batteries. As for speed, they are around the level of Li-Pos towards the end of a run, because they hold about 3.3v per cell under load. and you set the Low voltage cutoff the same as LiPos at 3.0v per cell. ESC is a Tekkin T8 and a 2650KV buggy motor https://store.teamtekin.com/t8-gen1-2650kv-buggy-motor/ That battery you linked can push 126Amps, which is slightly more than the original Mamba Monster ESC could handle. So they are fine. Why are you wanting to use Li-FE batteries anyway? Is this car for a younger family member to get used to running charging and maintaining their own car? That's what I use Li-Fe batteries for. For the Resistance to Fu**y Wukkys and oopsie doodles so no one ends up having to go into the bye bye box....

I use those in my nephews Hyper 7. For the peace of mind, so he can charge his own batteries safely with no chance of Big Woofy fireballs happening.

Yeah The Kronos is stronger in a lot of places, That chassis bracing man.... The only RC I've seen that beats your Hyper ST pro's chassis Bracing, and that's one of the reasons I went with the ST too. I'm going to move my Hypers down to my Nephew (take em apart, then build them with him to give him that kit build experience ) Then get myself a Pro level Competition Kronos kit when they release them early next year. (Hyper ST Pro) As for LiPos, get yourself a couple of these Puppies and remove the Rubber seal to prevent pressure buildup in the event of a Lipo getting volcanic veins https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ammo-Box-Ammo-Can-Tool-Box-Storage-Box-Ex-Army-Ammunition-Boxes-Grade-2/124009699278?hash=item1cdf8dd7ce:g:D54AAOSwFl9e0ese One for Charging in, one for storing the rest of your LiPos. Cheap as chips and has been thoroughly tested and can contain the worst LiPo fires, even with a LOT of big batteries in there. You can see on the vid in my Signature. Stick em on a stone floor tile to prevent heat transfer to whatever floor or table you have em on and bobs ya uncle, jobs a goodun.

Should be alright as long as you don't land on the rear wing mount, as the Kraton just is no where near as beefy as the Corally Kronos in a lot of places. Chunky Boi Kronos Double braced Wing mount\2nd rear bumper. Kraton EXB wing mount, Very flimsy in comparison. Otherwise the Kraton is alright No where near the best bashing truggy, but if you DIY secure that tube brace in the middle, to the center diff mount to stop it from bending. Dump the wing and mount when it breaks, then Shoegoe + Fibreglass tape the bodyshell to handle the extra beating from the missing wing mount and you should be solid enough from that point

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/corally-kronos-xp-6s-monster-truck-1-8-lwb-brushless-rtr/rc-car-products/444328 And to top all that off, it's even cheaper 💵 👉 🐖

I'd go with the Corally instead, the Arma Extreme Basher assembly teams did a Fu**y wucky. https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/243029-arrma-kraton-exb-extreme-bash-roller-speed-truck/ I'd go for the Kronos https://www.modelsport.co.uk/corally-kronos-xp-6s-monster-truck-1-8-lwb-brushless-rtr/rc-car-products/444328 The electrics are top notch, they are using a full fat rebranded Hobbywing MAX8 , and the motor is a Chunky Boi inside on the Windings, Stator and Rotor. AJ is having a smashing time with his, very well built, and the company is run by an actual RC enthusiast and it shows You also Perfectly timed buying your truck, as they are doing the V2 Parts bundle right now. https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/243721-team-corally-python-6s-or-similar-recommendation/ https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/242795-team-corally-kronos-xp-6s/

That't a pretty damn impressive Lipo containment haha! 📛🛡️🔒

That would be 30,000w CST FRONT 50,000w CST CENTER 10,000w CST rear....

If your car goes full blast when the transmitter is off, means the failsafe on your receiver is set wrong. Which is bad because if your car goes out of range you will have a car running off out of control.... What exact car are you using? Read the manual and find the section on setting the failsafe.

What about the 7.2v 380 motor I sent with the radio and servo? Take it you were unable to get the pinion on? Tried grinding down the sticky out bits on the shaft with a dremel grindstone?

Could try as it is, Makes it easy to swap servos in and out if you need to. If it moves at the bottom of the servo, yeah just a small blob of hotglue, gotta be just a tiny dab so not to overheat and warp any part of the servo case. If it moves at the top maybe a bit of thin/flat grippy rubber cut from an old bike innertube wrapped over the top and sides of the servo, then the cableties tightened down? Or just a bit of rubber the whole way round for either case?

Could be that The wires have to be correct for Sensored to work i think, can't have the motor wires random like when running sensorless. Wires have to be A to A, B to B and C to C when running sensored....

Oh wow yeah that's even better than I was thinking of... I had the solid Plastic automotive cable ties in mind, But those fabric ones are even better, should let the servo move a fair bit when the wheels get hit, so with some luck the servo will hold up to the bumps even without a servo saver, and if it slips around under them putting the steering out of alignment, a thin sheet of rubber between the ties and the servo will put a stop to that.... Hey didn't I ship that servo with some long M3 Screws? You could cut those to length and use those for the steering screw so you don't wear out the plastic part with the sharp thread on the self tapping screws, you would need a 2.5mm drill bit to carefully drill out the hole in the servo arm. Have to use a 2.5mm and be careful, to much and the screw would not grip.

Infact that might be a pack of A123 Li-FE cells, 3.3v nominal voltage so two sets of 3 in series and the two sets in parallel makes up that 9.9v marked on the pack https://www.electricwingman.com/a123-life-battery-packs.aspx Could someone more experienced chip in here to confirm?

Actually, that battery you got is 9.9 volt, must be 3s 2P so the first charger would be too high voltage

Lithium Ion Cells have to charged with a suitable charger, anything else is dangerous. Take it you got something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Li-ion-lithium-Battery-Charger-DIY-Battery-Project-6S-21-6V-25-2v-3A-Vruzend/324213254563?hash=item4b7c9da9a3:g:~4cAAOSwdtBdMC-I Or https://hobbyking.com/en_us/imax-b6ac-v2-professional-balance-charger-discharger-uk-plug.html?queryID=&objectID=74217&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products_hbk_price_stock_1_group_0_asc

can you link the charger you got? So we can check.

Take it the charger you have is for Lithium Ion batteries, not Li-Po?

Brushless buggy and Nitro monster truck is a good combo, but nitro isn't for you anymore, you could always sell the LST as a roller and use the money from that to go towards a brushless ready roller of somekind.

I think you will be fine using hotglue instead, putting the chassis flat on a table with a desk fan blowing on it to help keep the plastic cool, and doing it in a few layers, a few minutes apart. till you have a nice platform for the servo to sit on.