ansmann1

I AGREE WITHTHE PREVIOUS COMMENTS YOU REALLY NEED TO BUY 1/8 BUGGY AS THEY ARE MORE ROBUST AND LESS LIKELY TO TIP OVER AS WITH THE LONGER AND WIDER WHEELBASE MAKES IT MORE STABLE. I BOUGHT AN ANSMANN VIRUS 2 FROM MY LOCAL MODEL SHOP IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE

can anyone help with base sttings for ansmann virus 2 with ansmann 21 engine have looked on needle settings list and lists 28 engine but would prefer proper settings for 21 also when i run the buggy it always turns right sharply bu sometimes when turning left it is as if the steering is jammed. is this just a crap steering servo or is it something to do with the servo saver

thanks for all your info will take it all on board i think i will stick to 16% for the 16 engine and just use the 25% on the 21 engine. by the way does anyone know the base settings for the ansmann 21 engine as they do not appear to be recorded in the manual

try turning the flywheel if it turns freely with no resistance then it sounds like your engine is goosed

right ive done it due to all your comments i have bought 25% nitro and plan to run both the .16 and the .21 on it. could anyone tell me just as a rough guide for retuning will i be leaning the lsn and hsn or richening. oh by the way i was running both on 16%

[would this mean i would need a hotter or colder plug i am currently using an orion 5

what are the benefits of running higher nitro level fuels. i am currently using 16% nitro which is nearly finished. i have a kyosho on road fazer with .16 engine and an ansmann virus 2 off road with .21 engine. i am aware if i change fuels i need to break in again and retune comments please

I bought a kyosho fazer mk2 aston martin on road car it has a gf16 engine and it goes great, it is also easy to maintain and the parts are readily available

i have got 2 rc cars the first one a kyosho fazer and the second an ansmann virus 2. the kyosho i ran in by running one tank of fuel through on idle with the wheels on the ground the second tank again idle and bursts of very slight throttle. by the third tank i had built up to about half throttle. however make sure you keep the mixture both lsn and hsn on the rich side and when you have finished make sure you remove the glo plug and squirt a couple of drops of after run oil into the engine and turn the engine over with pullstart. you can also whilst the glo plug is out use pull start to make sure piston is at bottom dead centre then replace glo plug this will mean that the piston can cool outside of the piston liner. but most importantly at all times never run engine too lean as i did after i had run it in. the piston cracked and part of it jammed between top of piston and cylinder head. very costly to repair lol. when i got my second model the ansmann virus i had a bit more knowledge and again when running it in iran a few tanks through on idle and then each tank i gradually increased throttle. the guys on this site are very knowledgeable and i have gained a lot of good advice from them. make sure you read the begginers faqs. you can also find some good advice on you tube for tuning using the pinch and punch test.also check out the traxxas tuning flow chart which is also very helpful. basically the more you read the more you will learn which will reap benefits in prolonging the life of your engine

could anyone please give me some advice on what to use to clean out engine after running. i always take out glo plug and squirt a few drops of after run oil in after every run but i heard somewhere that fuel left in engine will damage it is this true