tonysmini

There's a few local guys going to be at the Surfleet village fete on Sunday the 7th of Sept.

Punch out the discs, pop a tiny hole in the centre of it, pop the eyelet off the ball joint, push the disc over the ball then pop the eyelet back on. The foam should take up any slack keeping everything just right.

What size pinion and spur are you running?

Any 1/10 wheels and tyres will work, pack out the ball joints with foam or neoprene discs. (I use a paper hole punch and an old laptop sleeve) Belts, you just have to keep your eyes open on the bay I'm afraid.

What bits do you need?

Any pics of what's left?

As above, I swap out pretty much all self tappers on my cars for stainless machine screws. Don't work loose or strip out the threads unless you are really ham fisted.

Disconnect the motor first, that will at least stop it running away on you. Go back to the basics first. 1. Check your batteries are fully charged for the car and good in the controller. 2. Has the RX been bound to the TX or if it's 27meg, do the crystals match and are they fitted correctly? (There should be one marked t or TX and the other r or RX) and is the aerial stood up straight. 3. Have you set up the speed controller? 4. When you switch it all on, do it transmitter first, wait a few seconds then connect up the car battery and switch that on. If the answer to all these is yes then it may be a faulty RX.

In my eyes it's still one of the best handling rally cars out there. Not as tough and rugged as Tamiya's TB01 but on a smooth twisty track they just sprint away.

Ask anyone and they will tell you Andy is a god with his rebuilt motors. I have a few Igyfied motors and they are all smooth and powerfull. May be worth speaking with him and asking his advice about what your truck needs.

I had the same issues, cannot get CVD's for love or money. Ended up buying a spares car for bits and made more selling the bits I didn't need. I run mine on a 12t Ezrun brushless and it's great.

What did you do?

The 1/10 Traxxas Summit is great, expensive but can go fast, slow, lock the diffs and it climbs really well. Just falls down on the lack of realistic looks. A bit ugly. Maybe look at Axial's Wraith, a lot of fun, it just needs a couple of mods to make it really great. (Alter the gearing, solid bar steering and axle links) Maybe look at this http://www.modelsport.co.uk/axial-1-10th-scale-scx10-deadbolt-4wd-rtr/rc-car-products/384883 A great truck for the money and like the wraith, missable too.

Some Nimh get hotter than others when charging, plus they do take a couple of cycles to get to full capacity.

No, but a cheap Accucell 6 from hobbyking will charge everything.

Probably past it's best then. I run Core RC Nimh 4000mah in mine, or Lipo if I fancy a bit more speed.

Do not use threadlock on anything plastic, it can cause it to go brittle. Do use it on the diff screws as they will work loose though. Also spray greases are a no no (the solvent in them will wreck the plastics too. Lock the front diff, get a set of bearings from Colin at RCBearings.co.uk and the GPM steering set as the stock plastic set up is a bit sloppy.

Are they are nicad or Nimh? you can usually bring them back with a few good cycle charges. Just don 't run the Nimh totally flat as they may die completely.

I have a thing for rally cars, and I may as well have a good chassis for them. I also have an HPI RS4 Rally with a Focus and Scooby shell, two Mini's, a WRC Fabia on an M03, a Metro 6R4 and a 97 Scooby on TA03's, a Bowler Wildcat to go on another TB01 once I get a few more parts. My wife keeps counting them and tutting when she finds a new one.

Just some of the bodies mine have worn over the years. The Focus has the wide arm kit fitted, the others are mostly stock.

Tamiya did a set of alloy steering arms to replace the plastic ones and the step screws on the chassis, gets rid of the excess play. Search for TG10 steering, the nitro car the TB was based on. The long arm kit is the same width as stock, it just moves the pivot point for the outer hubs further out, allowing the suspension to work better. It came as stock on the TB-Evo kit for racing. Hard to find, costs between

Lincs Bashers. Spalding and Peterborough

Nice, I have a soft spot for TB01's, I have four in various guises. Alloy steering is the only thing you need now. After that the long arm set and your there.

If it's an auto set up ESC it may see your part throttle as full speed on start up. I had one, cannot remember what make, that did this. The way round if was to: 1. Power on the controller. 2. Car off the floor and switch on. 3. Wait a few seconds then squeeze the throttle for full power then let go. 4. Give it a quick stab at reverse. 5. Pop the car on the floor and try it out. 6. Rag the car to death. 7. Pick up the various pieces, go home and rebuild. Works for me.

Bashing is generally running your cars anywhere and everywhere, but not a racer. (Tried racing a few years ago, got fed up with the arrogance of some people there and it wasn't 't really my thing). If you look for Tony Walsh in Spalding on FB, add me and I'll invite you into the group.