tjpMT2

SOLD

For sale is my Hong Nor X1 CRT Pro. It was stripped down in March and put away as I had/have exams. It has all new bearings, all new diff oil (7/10/3) and all new shock oil (40/40). Shocks also have new seals and new caps (old ones included as spares). It's got an Innovative-RC Chassis and Front and Rear towers. Its got a Hong Nor CNC akerman plate, CNC top plate, CNC radio tray posts and wing mount posts (plastic ones are also included), Dace MFG chassis braces, and Z-Brace, Hong Nor CNC Centre diff mount fitted with Craddock anti-lock disks, engine mono mount (also included are 2 sets of 'stock' engine mounts). It comes with Blue, Red and Yellow springs, 15mm Hub extenders and also Kyosho 'hockey-stick' steering ends (so you can run non-offset wheels), 2 sets of stone guards (one set only used twice) 2 fuel tanks (one only used twice), rear mud guards and comes with spares (mostly new, some used). It also comes with 2 white JConcepts wings, one has a Carbon Fibre UpgradeRC wing wrap on it. It comes with 2 shells, a Proline crowd pleaser shell and a Majestics shell painted by Adam Wild of DRT/TJDModels, manual and boxed. Price for all this is

Pro Peak doesn't have balancing, the extra balancing thing is £35 and then a power supply will put the price up too much... Does anyone have any thoughts/experience with the Hyperion EOS 5i DP AC/DC Charger+ Lba10 Balancer? (on there website) OR the Hyperrion EOS606i AC/DC Charger-Built in Balancer (again on site)

Thanks, THIS one looks prety good, same as the one you posted but AC and DC.

I'm Looking for a charger to charge my Receiver pack and transmitter pack for my CRT, I'm a complete noob at leccy stuff but at the moment i need it to charge NiCD's and NiMH's but for the 2008 season I'm hoping to be running Li-Po's. It will also need to be able to charge a 12V battery. Bonus's would be discharging and cycling (for the NiCD/NiMH's) and ideally it would be 12V and mains. I'm not sure how important Li-Po balancing is so would that be needed? Would be good if it was a good make for re-sale! Cant justify anything over £80 for RX and TX charger... Thanks in advanced, Toby

you need a hong nor one but it can get prety anoying some times

Proline badlands for bashing and if its the RTR x1 i hope youve got the cnc chassis braces or your lucky thats the inly damage youve got

These should stop any leaking and should stop the issue a couple of people were having with the deforming/wearing out early...

dont use the FUTABA servo horn on a HITEC servo they have a different number of splines and you could damage the servo

the arms are designed for Futaba servos not Hitec servos You need some Hitec Servo Horns

Cars only as good as its driver... if your going to get one look at the Kyosho ST-RR not the ST-R

TQModels also sell Mugen parts, any parts not on there site or not in stock can be ordered and normally only take 1 - 2 days, JESpares and BMM also sell mugen spares

Losi's are a lot harder to drive and are very skitish, you have to be a decent driver to be able to race it 'properly'. The parts also wear out prety quick and are costly as well. A safe bet would be a CRT or a Hyper ST or if you want to spend some more money go with a Mugen MBX5T

yes, the mugy cant race... the Hong Nor/Hyper ST can...

no to both of them are you going to be racing or bashing?

LST Stock Arms £OFFER Hudy Hexes £2.50 Each Glow Plug to plug into starter Box £SOLD Rest of the pics up later Prices include P+P apart from Tyres/Shells (add £5) prices open to sensible offers as well

Im doing a clearout so i can save up for a DSLR, Savage X Stock Wheels - 17mm - 80% tread only used for run in £30 40Series 2Crime Fighters 2BowTies- 14mm (1/2offset?) 95% of tread only used once or twice on grass £SOLD 40Series Bowties - 14mm (1/2 offset) 95% of tread only used once or twice on grass and a few laps round DRT £30 Dont know if these would be any use to anyone? there premounted GRP Grips on 17mm hexes (for sav) one of the hexes had rounded though so there are only 3 £OFFER Sav Shell, Light/Dark green flip £10 Sav Shell, 'Tropical' style with rollbar £10 Clear un painted but cut out HPI EL CAMINO Savage Body £15 Moter Saver AirFilter £SOLD Sav Springs, 6Purple Spring, 3 Blue Springs - i used 4 purple front and 2 rear with 2 blues rear (lost one of the blues : and gave the 2 purples) £10 ProPeak/RC-Line/Ripmax Multi Q Field charger... £40 Hitec HS-5985 MG £40 Hitec HS-625 MG BB £SOLD Futaba S3003 (plasti dip has been put on it to make it waterproof but can be easyly removed if wanted ) £5 Losi Spin Start £30 Most of a Losi LST2 Screw Kit £OFFER

Ive ran 20% in my T-15 for 1 1/2 years now and is just dying now Higher content does not definatly mean that your engine will run out faster, I run my GO's on 30% and they last just as long as on 25%

Go engines (espacialy the .21's) the head button is different (less thread)

RUn RB06 with two copper washers or a OS A5 with one coper washer only GO's have a very very long run in period, which is also a very hard one but it makes the engine last longer. read THIS also you might get better advice on RCModZ (Not saying that the advice here is bad/wrong! just the people on RCModZ have alot more expericance with GO's)

heres some side by side photos as well... Rear.. Front... (P.S the front towers do not include the 4 big/m4 screws)

theres ganna be some comparison shots with the stock Hong Nor towers and hopfully at the weekend with the Vertigo low profile Towers

and the new shiney towers :cool:

and its 1st outing at EMORC