Paul_TDi

It's electric, doesn't count.

I read this guide which tells you to shave down the ends if there too close. When I rested the ring alone in the head the ends touched so filed them back a little, apparently a little too much :-/ I was using plenty of oil to lube up the ring, piston and head.

Well I have no compression at the minute, finger stays put turning her over. I'm going to put the old ring back in and see what happens. On the new ring I think I may of shaved it down too much. So if it starts with the old ring I'll get another new ring to install. I got the piston back in the correct way with the ring set pin facing the intact port.

Quite frankly I'm fed up with it now, got the new 36mm ring, checked end gap, adjusted it, installed it, rebuilt the car and then still won't start, not even a cough and splutter. I'm not sure if I damaged the head beyond starting when I tried to install the piston with the new ring into the head wrongly, didn't realise there was a centering pin on the intake side before rebuilding it so got a bit forceful at one point and scored the head. I might stick the old ring back in and see if it will start, if it does it's just down to the new ring. It didn't have any issues before I replaced it.

ooo 12p cheaper with abbotts. Thanks for the reply by the way, knew it had to be something simple.

Bugga! I thought it felt a bit slack for a new ring, but hadn't started it for a while so thought I had just got stronger lol MMR to the rescue, 2 quid on postage though.....ouch!

After having my baja for over year and putting 10 litres through it I thought I'd better change the piston ring as I have no knowledge how much fuel had already gone through it. It has a CY engine with a head upgrade kit as far as I know. On the side of the head behind the ignition coil it says 28-36. I bought this ring from DDM- http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1125/.f Have I fitted the wrong ring, it looked about the same size but being the first time I have changed a ring I wasn't sure if I should see a visual difference?

Stop being a girl, get it out there and filthy! You know you NEED too.

Same with the steering, put the steering wheel on full lock and reduce the end point until nothing is straining but the car is still full lock. Do it for both directions.

Then it needs reducing further. Your trigger should be on full same as your brakes. While out bashing your not going to think to only apply 3/4 trigger, so everytime you'll be straining your set up.

Apply your brakes on full and then reduce the end point until nothing is straining but brakes still fully applied.

When setting my end points I hold trigger down to the max and then reduce the end point until the carb is still at full throttle but nothing is straining. This is setting my baja up but same technique can be applied to any set up.

eBay of course. Just search Nylon 66 rod and choose the right diameter.

I have the snappy fuel line kit on my tank with separate breather and been using generic orings of various sizes but the tank lid still trickles when tipped on it's side. Is there a special oring that Snappy make to seal the lid properly? I'm using a DDM alloy cap and standard tank.

Read what I said again.... Firstly marders and baja's are not MT's by any stretch of the imagination. I wasn't referring to carrying them, I said chuck around, ie bashing. Do the same stupidly large jump with 1/5th MT to a 1/8th MT and the 1/8th will most likely have a lot less damage if any. With all the extra weight a FG MT truck or black out carry compared to 1/8th MT's means that they are more prone to damage, plus I feel they are underpowered from stock.

I think a 1/8th petrol MT is a fairly good idea as the 1/5 MT's are generally too heavy and bulky to chuck around like you would a 1/8th truck Obviously it's all down to price though, I would rather than a cheaper 1/5th than an expensive 1/8th.

Congrats! Thats some impressive damage. If the metal diff casing is knackered it's a pricey fix but otherwise all those parts are under 10 quid each 2nd hand.

If your not worried about cost then just give it some welly! Looks quite sandy at the top there so should be a nice landing.

Deffo the 2nd. The first ones cab looks like your bog standard HGV.

Just buy some Nylon rod to do the job, it's more flexible so you won't break them again as easily.

It's got the Snappy fuel line kit on it, means that the tank lid is sealed and it vents through the 3rd hose with a 1 way breather. My tank lid was leaking so decided to upgrade rather than just replace.

Welcome to petrol, you'll love it! Loving the use of cable ties to keep the wishbones in place.

If there is a kill switch installed then yes if battery was low then the kill switch would stop the car from starting. Make sure the carb is reverted to factory settings too, 1 1/2 turns on high speed and 1 1/4 on low speed needle.

Excellent, next strip down my engine might get a treat then. haha

Awesome work Jolly, wish I had the patience to do something like that.