Paul_TDi

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but pretty sure Nova-RC shut down a few years ago. This is there eBay seller account- http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=nova-rc&ftab=AllFeedback Which states they are no longer a registered user. I think your only chance now is if one pops up on ebay from old stock somewhere or a 2nd hand one. When searching try AE MGT 8.0 aswell.

As long as your servo saver is set up correctly then you shouldn't be stripping horns. I still run a plastic one.

My car has a few extended cuts from removing screws, just call them battle scars. You jus need to be able to get a a broad tip in there nice and deep. Oh for sure, I would be so annoyed if I found that out from buying 2nd hand. If it is in a 2 pieces and you don't want to buy a new chassis yet, just put it back the way you found it?

Serious point now.... How does the weight of the motor and batteries compare to a 2 stroke with clutch housing? According to weights on MSUK the 5b is 100g lighter than the baja flux

With your rounded screw issue I cut a nice deep cut with a dremel, usually cutting into the surrounded area a little then get a nice wide thick straight screw bit in my torq driver and zap it out, the key is getting a deep enough cut. If you don't have a torq driver use a racket as if the screw was rounded it must be stuck in there good so a ratchet handle gives you better leverage. Shame about the chassis, looks like previous owner bought a brace rather than a new chassis, but if it's holding strong no point stressing over it.

Until the e-baja randomly combusted.

Well played sir. But for your 400 hours runtime you also need to factor in the charger cost and electricity cost. I know still not going to total same as petrol in the end. Also (clutching at straws here) a lipo battery on it's 600th charge isn't going to provide the same run time as it's first charge. But noj, unless your charging through solar or wind power the electricity station will still have ill effects for nature. annnddddd your going to want at least 2 sets of batteries with you so thats 70 hours of petrol run time before you have paid for your 4 batteries. Yep still bored.

Ouch! 60 quid for a couple of batteries to last 40mins! Thats one hell of a cost to cough up, another reason for going petrol is cheaper running costs to nitro. So I just paid

I've not run any Lipos so wouldn't know the first about the dos and don'ts. If going out for a bash then I think the bajas tank is ideal for solo bashing. I regularly chuck car, controller and minimal tools in the boot and go out without more fuel. For people without a car getting a 2 litre fuel can to chuck in a back pack would give you around 3 hours run time with a full tank aswell. Not sure what kind of run time you get from batteries though.

I think graffiti removal spray works well. Heard people using DOT 5.1 brake fluid too.

As people have said every model has it's place and I certianly wouldn't turn down the oppourtunity to play with a BL set up. But for me from when I first got a Tamiya Mad Bull over 10 years ago, petrol was my aim. It always seemed the peak of the hobby in my opinion. Now I have petrol I love it and would never sell for nitro or electric. I may have to try BL in the future but the battery maintenance seems like a PITA.

Bit of a cheap skate really, all that money spent on the RC and can't set a reserve price on the auction, has now announced he will cancel the auction if it doesn't reach the right money. I think if I had the money I would buy it, strip it and rebuild as a usable model with the good parts in there. Do we assume it's 2 speed? Can't quite understand why say that he's chroming this and that while the auctions running but Just hope he doesn't chrome the shell like he's recently said.

Love the look of the shell/cage skin but not keen on being 100% alloy.

As above really, spent a hole morning bashing the baja on sand dunes and very rough terrain and broke nothing. At the end of the day just running it around hit a lorry track in the hard mud awkwardly and broke a rear hub.

You've tried everything.... What have you tried? The engine will only flood by pressing the primer bulb too many times. If you remove the spark plug and put the cap back on are you getting a strong spark when you put the cord? Have you tried reverting the carb back to standard settings? When was the engine last running? any issues? any changes/mods since you last ran?

I don't, if the tune is right and engine is running well then it's running well!? Same here though I moved to petrol as I wanted a mans toy to play with and you spend more time playing that fixing/starting. I had a Thunder tiger S50 hex start as my last nitro which was great to start but petrol starting it just a dream. Don't be disillusioned though, you still get issues with petrol and can still be a pain in the arse to source and fix the problem. Plus generally they are more expensive to repair and upgrade. Cheaper to run run though, had my petrol for 2 years with fairly regularly bashing sessions 2-3/month and only used 10 litres of petrol.

I bought a dom clone which had been cut and 'sealed' with a silicon hose, quickly gave up on it and bought a bartalone 1 piece exhaust protected by an uber bumper. The silicon pipe was constantly leaking, slipping off, burning inside and splitting. Keep your pipe 1 piece and just protect it.

Having a pretty standard engine and only bashing I haven't bothered with anything fancy. Just went to my nearest shell station and bought there own brand stuff. Plus I know I can always get more on Sundays then, the 1 day your guaranteed to run out on!

I have a Hi-Tec on the steering and a powerHD on the throttle.

It moves in and out slightly, end float right? But for example I was setting the ignition coil gap and as I turned the flywheel as the magnet came in line with the ignition coil they just pulled together. So bearings? are there better ones to get like ceramics or for a fairly standard engine shall I just get bog standards?

Indeedy, only took 3 rings to get it right. On the up side the exhaust note does sound a little crisper so hoping it's gained a bit of power back. Oh and while I have peoples attention to save a thread, I can wobble the crankshaft a fair about by wobbling the flywheel, I'm assuming this means the engine bearings are on there way out? From centered to pushing it far as it will go it's a good 2-3 mm

New ring arrived today which I checked in the head first, had a tiny gap. Installed with no issues, started on 3rd pull! All sorted Thanks all.

Score wasn't too bad, it was mainly at the bottom where the 2 sides of head flare out a little to guide the piston in, I used some 2500 wet dry paper with 2 stroke oil to smooth it out, so no chance of catching on it. Engine is ripped apart again ready for new ring tomorrow then I'll see what happens. This is what I'm saying I placed the ring inside the head squarely and the ends were touching, thus I needed to make a slight gap. According to the linked guide it's 0.4mm.

It that his then? Impressive in it's own right but would be much better with higher ground clearance and without such a tall body making it look more to scale and of course with an IC engine!

New ring ordered again. Hopefully all will be fine this time, basically went wrong because I missed the centering pin. I was going to check with the old ring first but I can't be bothered to tear it apart twice.