nitroazza

hmmm

hmm, yeah every search result gave me 0 results too..

in seriousness... Noone can sit here and tell you how much its worth... Its only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it.. and like in my previous post.. Will give you a tenner for it..

will give you a tenner for it.....

well the clutchbell, when idling, isnt meant to move, its only when you rev the car and the clutch engages, its when the clutchbell is meant to move, and drive the gears... But in all seriousness.. If your engine is overheating like 3 times per tank of fuel.. Likely chance is that your engine is now naffed... Obviouosly this isnt always the case.. But overheating is a big killer of compression, and if your overheating that amount each time, then im convinced there premiture wear on the piston and sleve... So what id do is: Pull the engine out the rc * Strip it down, and i mean everything, flywheel, clutch, engine head off, piston and sleve out, crankshaft out, carb off etc etc. * Put the crankshaft back in gently and check for excessive play along the way * Visually check the bearings.. (one behind the flywheel, and one just inside the engine If bearings seam fine, check piston and sleve pinch.. When you slide the piston in the sleve, there should be resistance up towards the top of the sleve.. about 6mm from the top roughly is where your meant to get full pinch.. If thats fine then move on to the next step.... If there is no pinch.. Your piston n sleve are fried.. * If piston and sleve are good, Put it back in the engine, * Fit flywheel on, checking for play along the way.. Also refit clutch shoes, clutch bell etc.... * Seal and fit the carb.. Seal it with High temperature Engine Gasket, fit it in the engine, and leave it 24hours to cure and seal fully * Fit one way bearing * Seal and fit back plate (seal the edges properly with high temp gasket again) * Set carb to factory settings, (if you dont know them, search around the net for them to your specific brand engine) * Remove carb needles (remembering stock tune settings), seal all the needles up with Team associated green slime and refit them back in and reset factory tune settings.. * Leave engine 24 hours for gasket sealant to cure etc... I know this seams like a bit and long job, But trust me.. It enables you to service every part of the engine, checking one thing at a time.. And while your fitting it all back together, your sealing the engine from air leaks,, (sealing the engines are recommended on engines), i seal my engines up when they are brand new, and before i even use them the first time, so i know i havent got to worry about air leaks later on.... Will all these checks etc, your illiminating the potential problem one by one.. Until your engine has no choice but to run smoothly i really hoped this helped...

answers in order: 1.. WHEN i use after run oil, i remove the glowplug and put a few drops in the chamber, and gently crank it over.. Then i put a drop in my carb.. I say "WHEN" because if you use fuel with decent oil content, After run oil isnt essential.. Ive left an old kyosho pure ten in my attic for 2 years without after run oiling it, and it was still perfect when i pulled it back out.. I mostly just make 100% sure the piston is at BDC as soon as i cut the engine off.... 2. It only takes me about 30 seconds to tune my engines, as i have done it for years, and can do it perfectly by sound. So i dont need to worry about richening it up before starting it.. If tuning is wrong when i start it up, it will only remain incorrect for about 10secs per needle before it gets tuned, then it will be fine, So no engine wear there..

sweet dude... I just need to find someone is goin past mine, to there on a regular basis

when the engine is running rich, the transmission may not shift up.. Wait until it is all ran in and tuned etc.. then go from there..

Yeah.. Whats wrong with Gas irons? I use my wellet butane iron 99.9% of the time.. Instead of having to set my soldering station up.. Gas irons are handy as they are wireless, Their heat up time is quicker than a normal electric iron, There is very minimal tip cooling when you place your tip down to solder... I have used mine to solder NimH cells, Lipo cell tabs, Esc wires, Motor wires, and never had a problem... They are neither too powerful or under powered, because they are adjustable too.. So whats wrong with them?

you may need to shim the engine to run that fuel in it mate.. Unless the engine in question already states in the manual that its capable of 25% fuel.. In that case it will be pre-shimmed and ready for it..

well the increase in revs can be due to lean LSN... and with the flywheel play, does the whole crank shaft shift forwards and backwards? or just the flywheel? and just to make things 100% clean here... I hope you dont mean play as in on the clutch bell... because that is meant to have ever so slight play...

yeah its the one with the spring mate.... Dont just undo it though, adjust it a bit at a time, 1/8th of a turn each time, and make sure it idles nicely.. if its still too fast, undo it another 1/8th of a turn, (anti-clockwise), and if its too low idle and the engine stalls, screw it in (clockwise) 1/8th turn.. Erm, in relation to the gears.. Make sure when your fitting your new gears, that they are meshed correctly.. If they are not meshed correctly, too close together will cause too much heat between the gears and destroy them, and too loose will cause it to grind and wear away.. Best way to get perfect mesh, for a beginner... get yourself a small strip of paper, i mean about 1cm wide and like 5cm long... and place that between the gears before pushing the gears together and tightening them in place.. Then simply remove the paper.. The paper makes the perfect gap between the gears while your tightening them up....

you shouldnt change around clutch shoes... then should be on the collets on the flywheel and the friction parts to the right... and the excessive heat is due to engine being too lean....

if he is screwing the idle screw clockwise,, Hence, threading the screw in more..its pushing in more, and pushing the slider open more,, = Faster idle.. and he wants to lower his idle because its currently running too fast... So anti-clockwise...

yeah good way to be mate.. Race for the fun of it, and to share the love of the hobby with the others... Not to be competative and be stuck up about winning... The hobby is all about fun, thats the way racing should be 100%... WHo cares if ya win or lose, its the taking part that counts

Fitted my new HPI Edit EFRA aproved pipe set to my hyper 7.. Now my picco .21 just needs to hurry up and be delivered

I always leave mine standing still, idling for a bit.. Then i prop my tool box under it and gently rev it, that way there is no strain of pushing the rc along, on the engine... Gives the engine and easier time while warming up

want to chuck it my way dude? I have flysky radio gear, and could do with another reciever for when i get my new rc... Plus, would give me something to do.. Takes me away from the wife and kids for a bit

+1 on the losi 8ight 2.0..... Fantastic buggies, very strong and perfect for both bashing and racing.... Why spend double by getting a cheaper one to start with and then having to buy a decent racer further on in time.. Id save up extra, buy the losi outright, and be done with it... Buy plenty of spares, a couple of different engines.. Job done

arghh, I would love to come along to this bash as i couldnt last time.. But dont think my hyper will be built in time

1. Like said, i wouldnt really give the engine some stick when its cold.. Your asking for engine wear or damage.. 2. if the engine is more powerful when cold, then the first thing that pops into mind is loss of compression.. Either due to worn piston rings, or rarely but certainly can happen, Both piston rings can move around so that both of the rings fitment gaps align together, which loses compression... But more than likely the first one.... Worn rings... But ayy, look on the bright side, only 2 rings to replace No oil scraped rings in 2 strokes

concidering its in the Nitro section, and on his first post, he said something about T-maxx's, savages etc etc.. It kinda makes me think he wants a Nitro rc????

oooo, an awesome project would defo be.. Buy a piece of poo cheap and weak thing, and make it the lord of all bashers