cooper_xl

more stuff: Side windows these rear vents: Most of the m548 I've seen online(and the ones on our national army) have canvas top but i found that are hardtop variants and knew right away that's the best option: So, stacked a couple of layers of pvc and tried to do the round corner windows

I fell in love with a truck some time ago. It's big, heavy and ugly and I didn't see any built until today(as far as my research went). And when I revealed the idea to a coworker, he said that rode those in the army so he became my official advisor This build is already finished and some of you might had seen it completed but I want to share the process to you, curious minds! Introducing the M548, a cargo and transport vehicle from the 60s: To the build! It's a big one, measuring 25x58cm, in true 1/10 scale: First cuts: The nose: Test fit: Back to the nose: The 1:1 has 2 headlight clusters, containing regular headlights, blacklights for stealthiness, horn, blinkers,etc(depends on the variant). on mine I went for regular lights, red lights to simulate the blacklights and horn Tought in machine them but 3d print makes it easier,machined only the housing and the lenses were cut from 1:1 car lights: The running gear were metal heng long gearboxes: They came with tiny motors(280 or 370) so I've adapted them to 540 motors. This running gear seemed perfect for this truck. 2 gearboxes with 1 motor each seems that would take too much space but no: They sit perfectly under the cab floor like the 1:1 and the bottom of the gearboxes align perfectly with the underside The complete running gear it's 2 motors, 2 ESCs, 1 (or 2) bats. I was afraid of having to buy a stick radio like all tank guys have but I've tinkered with my usual radio that offers 4 mixing slots and have found the perfect way. Progressive control in both throtle and steering

Something I've been stuck for a while. I just couldn't 3D model inner fenders. Never looked right. Tried for the JK and quit(I'm scratchbuilding them now) but took another chance on the LC70. Copied the shape of the rails to be super tight and it's held with just 2 screws. Was forced to do them because the chassis is custom and nothing off-the-shelf would fit properly. Besides, Inner fenders on the market are pretty expensive for trial and error Printed these out of TPU and did some experiments with sandpaper to mimic that plastic inner fender look. Assembled, doesn't look so bad. Want to try sandblasting to give a more uniform texture but machine is broken

I'll find use for that gearbox. Even if I just use the internals in a 3d printed housing with a different shape But this new setup gave more clearance under and overneath. Leaf springs are new to me and when I test drove the truck, rear axle was wobbly, the softer leafs have that disadvantage . Have seen anti-wrap bar mods, decided to give it a go, first with a simple single point bar and if that doesn't work, would do a 2 point bar 6mm hex stock to make a rod Simple axle mount made from square tubing Cosmetic improvement In place: Really liked on how solid the axle feels now, with no binding

Thanks! I've sent them to my buddy! barghhghgghg! This don't come really as a surprise but the KingKong gearbox isn't really made for these builds. Even with the epoxy reinforcements and helicoils, the threads on one side loosen up constantly. Was trying to add a printed part to hold the weight of the motor and all that handling stripped the threads(this truck never leaved the house!).Explained the situation to the company and they sent a replacement . But I can't wait so got the original Unimog gearbox in there The gearbox needs a spacer to avoid cutting the shaft and with guides to center everything. Decided to do that integrated on the actual chassis mount: This spare Boom Racing shaft has the perfect length ! The old gearbox had the scale looks but this one is growing on me. Reminds me of those old school builds. And has 1:9 ratio instead of 1:18 so it will have twice the wheelspeed. If it handled the heavy Unimog, I'm sure it can handle this truck

Thanks!! A bit more: My plan was to hide the battery on a tray under the seats. Closing the rear of the cab killed that idea. Now, I've made these boxes to hide the battery and it's easier to swap them

Any chance you can share the slicer settings? my friend(who printed the grille) it is curious to see them and maybe order that resin

These are so shiny. Are the same you showed first? Or failures?

Wow! They seem nice! Can you share the printer and what resin? And elaborate on the problems you encountered? I wanted to do them thinner but were too flexy when printing. I did them laying on the "Land" side because the letters came out better than on the "cruiser" side. All with a bit of angle just to avoid supports on any letter. Just the bare minimum on the backside. TPU supports can be hell

Did shock mounts to have 70mm shocks helping the leafs Just changed a thing: Due to where the rear shocks were bolted, I was getting almost no positive travel so did these bolt-on mounts to lower the mounting hole 17mm. They are laser cut and the threaded "cylinder" was brazed. Don't laugh at the brazing because I'm still learning

Thanks but I need really from Europe. Before Brexit, UK shops were an option.

Anyone knows where to get it in Europe?

2 more things: A little mesh on the bumper to step on Designed this cab back to close the hole left by changing to the tray bed. Well, the hole is there with the standard bed hides it

Tried something new: making leaf springs Had this trashed chainsaw rewind that has the same width as the leafs I'm replacing but it's 0.40mm thick,instead of 0.65mm(Aliexpress Specials!!!). The steel itself is different because, although the difference in thickness is small, the new leafs are much softer Seems to flex nice. It just needs shock mounts on the chassis to hold a pair of 70mm shocks to help the leafs How the truck looked at this moment: keen eyes will notice my bumper and fenders are no longer gray...is too achieve that "barebones work truck" look

lovely!!!!

Looks very nice. Where did you find that body?

Speaking of TPU, this is the best I've had....So when I've took a second look at the rear window: (before) ...I've had to design it's rubber: While we are it, also did for the side windows: Almost unnoticeable but LC70 owners will see there's something different there

I spent a bit of time trying to find the perfect print orientation but in a resin printer, that should be easier. Genuinely curious I've shared here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5658346 It works for you?

Thanks! but I'm from Portugal....How much would be that in postage alone?

Did the fuel tank. Tried to look as similar as possible.It is 3D printed, the straps are strips of bicycle inner tube and the pipe is an ABS pipe heat bent. Removed the chrome from the fuel cap to use it . The tank also hides the switch for the ISDT ESC Also, eliminated the stock fuel cap location on the cab(behind driver's door)

i didn't like these...They look cool and are well finished but the flaps follow the angle of the mudguards and stick out,not vertical. It is worse that on the press photo: So, modelled a set with the LandCruiser lettering and the Toyota logo and inbuilt angle so they sit properly: This is a work in progress. They were printed in TPU,which is an hard rubber. They are flexible but some detail is lost(Ender 3 stock wasn't supposed to print TPU at all! ) The light in this photo make them more shiny than they really are

After some thought on how to secure the rear of the body, went to see how the 1:1 is: So I've made a scaled down version, with an upper section bolting to the stock bed holes and 4 lower parts. There's M2.5 bolts threaded on the upper section that go through holes on the other parts and then hold with nuts Also,the rock sliders. I don't want to hit the doors on the rocks. The body came with a chromed plastic set but they're a bit bland. First, welded 4mm collars on the rails: And the rock sliders: 5mm main tube, 4mm outer tube and mounts. The mesh came from a pen holder Done. You can clean your boots before stepping in!

here's the bolts in place: My favourite part in any build is this stage,where the RC stands on it's own... On the tray bed,removed all the fragile hooks and hinges, replaced by metal ones and plugged the holes I'll not use. Got also rid of the frames for the taillights. I'll do tailgates on the bumper more on the style we have here in https://i.imgur.com/Z10qpeL.mp4

Thanks! Believe in yourself and things will happen! An idea came to mind today and did these bolts for the rear leafs They are a bit rough but were made when I should be working in another things 🤫 Video: https://i.imgur.com/9v31skI.mp4 These leaf springs shackles came with 4mm holes in one end(3mm on the other) and no matching hardware. And like the leaf holes are 4mm, thought on these "cheater" bolts that allow some rotation to help when flexing. I also shaved a little on the leaf ends. Don't know if was made before. It is a small bump in performance that doesn't hurt the looks

Had to order offset rod-ends to do the steering link. Did this one like some trucks have, altough different to the real LC79s. It should have been BTA with a drag link on the front but lack of space didn't let me do that. Video: https://i.imgur.com/77c3aO1.mp4