cooper_xl

I did some printed in TPU for my Carisma M40s. Still haven't tested though

With the "carpet", realized that I just need one more thing: rubber mats! saw a model that seemed perfect and modelled . Printed on FDM and was almost good but my buddy printed in resin and now I'm just waiting for them to arrive

Did something unusual on builds: the headliner. The most reasonable thing to do after was to put something to break all that blank space Went for the functional sun visors: They were 3D printed and have a hole through to fit a 0.6mm steel wire for the 2 pivots video: https://i.imgur.com/VWd7XRR.mp4

Rear door: Added the steel tow cable with all it's mounts: For the curious, there's aluminium for the half circles and hooks , copper on the middle mount, brass on the cable ends and the cable itself it's steel(a bike brake cable) And these: First, the cutoff handle(pulls a chain for the fire suppression system on the engine) And then, the handles(?) to help enter the cab Some creative liberty to make them work with the door handles And, all the wheels painted(except tension wheels)

This is to fit here:

Working on a Unimog bumper

mid motor? nice....

Ring mount and legs for the Browning M2 .50. Is a notorious feature that had to include.. The ring is a 2 piece part that I've machined from POM. Could do it in 1 piece but this way, rotates 360º First, the front legs Then,could do the rear ones The asymmetry on these is on purpose.For some reason the 1:1 is like this... When epoxy hardened and added reinforcements,cleaned the "welds"

At that time I was using a Carson FS REFLEX WHEEL ULTIMATE TOUCH (that's a mouthfull!) ,4ch radio with some cool features(not winch friendly, unfortunately) . One of the features is 4 mixing slots and because I never had the manual, was really proud of figuring out this all own my own 🙂 . Basically, I've used 2 slots: one makes the 2 motors go forward or backward, the second allows to turn. And if you went full throttle and needed to turn, one of the motors began to slow down depending on how hard you were turning. At the extremes, made the M548 rotate in place

Another step: Detail,with the M2 bolts All assembled: Were made in 4mm stainless steel rod, TIG welded and the brackets are from 12mm square tubing. First test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-LzyysaeVU The setup is: 2 55t on 60A ESCs and a pistol radio that allows more than one mixing. Basically there's 2 mixes, one for throttle and one for steering and they work together __________________

Looks are important but it also has to move... My attempt of replicate the real traction wheels: made the hubs for the traction wheels: quick mockup: I had the idea of machining the road wheels from aluminium and use rubber around like the 1:1 but it was too much trouble with the tracks I've got Speaking of tracks, I know they're are not similar to the 1:1 but they were the best cheap ones I've found And one of the road wheels: Exhaust: So, most of them have that truck style exhaust with the cap on top that opens but I've found this one with another exhaust type and went for it: The reason? It's easier to add the smoke generator later

Seats fixed, painted the door cards to match and added the headliner I want to paint the dashboard but was already assembled when I got this body. Everything's glued and with the stickers

the thread looks great for dirt!

Worked on the rear section, that small door to the cargo area A splash of color to see how it looks Glued the roof and did the opening of the hatch When the windows were cut, didn't notice that the real ones weren't square. Small detail but bothered me ... So... Another job was making the hooks for the canvas. Was thinking in buying those tiny hooks for bras but then, i preferred to do only to see how it could look

This interior comes with black seats but I want to have them gray, like in on a work truck. The rubber is not the best material to paint but tried a "Pearl Grey" from the Montana's 94 line and the darker is a "dark grey" from Fire Scale Modeler. First time trying trying pre-shading to make the stitching stand out. (Note:I did a mega noob mistake on the seats that was guiding the darker color by the mold seam line instead of the fake stitches. It is fixed now and looks proper) . All my fault of painting in a hour I've should have been sleeping) Also painted the back of the interior (the back of the cab), to match the body color. Had to paint it with brush because I couldn't stick the masking tape to the carpet. It still needs another coat of white

M548s carry a set of tools on the front. Sledgehammer,shovel, picaxe and axe Started with the sledgehammer: Axe done and put to work I really split these logs with the axe 🙂 Shovel: Ran out of space for a picaxe

I could have this truck running by now but ideas keep coming. I have the upgraded interior but can be improved I've stumbled on a recent national company that makes scale model supplies. On their website they have flocking powder to make car carpet ( https://www.firescalemodeler.com/finish-materials/flocking ) . The idea seemed a good detail. Wanted to order "gray" but after waiting a long time for stock, went for black and white to do this look: I was really afraid to mess this up but went well. Mixed the 2 colors on a jar, applied white glue on the floor(one side at a time) and applied the powder with a strainer. Gently tapped the piece so the excess fell off . This process goes better on a sheet of paper to collect all the unused powder I think it looks good and allows retouches. Now it only needs to gently blow away the fibers on the dash and console with the air compressor

Thanks! This one was challenging but fun...I think you'll enjoy the mechanical side of this Well, I couldn't leave the truck unattended...Seriously,cat? How to close the doors? Seems to work I wasn't liking the squareness of the rear. Looking at more photos, realize that was a mistake. Redone it with angled sides: Got the cushions for the seats: The footrests: And the levers to steer: I needed an idea for these "hooks" (?): They are all over the cab,inside also. My logical way to do them was in metal but i needed a bunch. Already did ones for a 1/6 willys but were bigger and only 4 of them.. So I tried to model and 3d print them . Are a bit small but the printer handled well Are a bit rough but sanding and paint will improve

The hull: Had to bent a 0.8mm aluminium sheet and with the angle grinder made the last bends. Rivets to hold the corners and epoxy to reinforce The truck is very dirty because of handling it at the shop to fit the hull Front: Bottom: Gearboxes in place: Not having the "hull" done, delayed progressing on the body. With the hull, everything was figured out. Another view of it,to show better how much space it has for transmission and electronic mAh for days 🙂 ..(actually, I'll use only 1 battery) Was planing to do these "fenders" as part of the hull but they were looking bad: This section was also to be in aluminium but because the hull is removable, there will be gaps showing, so I enclosed it in PVC. Now it's easier to add details Then, made this bulkhead(?) with service panels for the engine This is he floor of the cargo bay. Had the piece cut from the beginning First, some reinforcements : Then, a kind of hatch to change batteries: Maybe some magnets to close properly: Tailgate on:

What I've stumbled upon here? 🙂

The front plate don't need anything extra but the rear one would look out of place,alone back there. So I've mounted it on a bracket with the licence plate lights: The bracket itself was printed white,to be painted black with the lights' area masked. In the end ,poured clear silicone on those openings to mimic the lenses

Tailgate The 1:1: I assumed that the tailgate can be opened to both sides so I went with it Basic shape, 2 layers of PVC and one of the hinges: Closed: One way.... ...or another 2 long rods act like hinges.To open,just need to remove one depending on which side the tailgate opens More on the interior And the steps to climb: I sanded them better after these photos Sometimes the photos trick the size of things because there's no reference points. So this is.... ...the truck's actual size

Beginning of the roof: Far from finished and not glued yet to allow working on the interior

Crew door: I wasn't planning on opening doors but a friend convinced to do that and being honest,looks better and helps with the interior Next, I progress on the "dash",the real one is barebones,military style Mine it's not 100% accurate but after paint and details, I think it will look good enough The dials extend to the other side of the sheet,will have wires behind to simulate the connections and only the tip of the LEDs will be showing

This is the latest detail I've added and was almost a chore: A set of portuguese plates,period correct . Tried to do them at home and settled with this 4 color print. Printer couldn't do the 12 EU stars so replaced them with a circle. Should work at a distance . the Y in the plate is a forbidden letter in plates but let's see if you can guess why it's there