Smoothybb

Mine's called Threadlock. That's it, nothing else on the tube. Could be blue glue for all i care but it holds the threads extremely well. Tbh, whether you use 222 or 243, it'll do the trick. All you're doing is filling gaps between the threads to stop any slight movement causing loosening. Doubt you'd even notice the difference.

Sweet - thanks for that. Kind of confirmed what I'd found out. More torque from the Dynamite but slightly lower top end. Can live with that. Once they confirm the mountings will fit the standard one's I got, order is going in. Hopefully less than a ton delivered from US. I forgot to add vat and duty to my calculations but still very reasonable for the quality. Thanks for the info NilSatis

No one??? Hasn't anyone tried these engines? Have to go with the one that looks the best then

That sounds odd. Reversing the TX switch shouldn't really make that much difference. Without the engine running, does the throttle servo move differently when you set it to N or R???? If the engine runs okay with it on N, then the only thing I can think of is the Tx trim needs to be adjusted to increase the idle speed when set on R?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Plastic-Antenna-Pipe-Tube-Receiver-Arial-Aerial-w-cap_W0QQitemZ260343964124QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item3c9db5a1dc#ht_1010wt_939 Bit out on the price. When I ordered they were selling 5pks and they sent me 2 lots of 4 for 99p. Why you want one? Like I say, got a few if you want one or two for the price of postage?

Sounds like thats reversed dude. All of the wheels i've tried have been pull trigger for the faster stuff. I may be wrong and it's meant to be like that? Which ways got more travel, push or pull? Take it all the connectors are the right way round?

Doing a bit of thread trawling and saw this. I had same problem and did blutac first. Finally bought a new pack (about 2 quid for 10 or someit) and it's now quite hard to get out! Would offer to mail you some foc (got 6 spares currently) but probably cost as much to send as to buy from fleabay.

I'm confused. Pull the trigger for go faster? (That should be standard setup) And it don't work like that?

Seems odd. I've reversed the throttle channel before for a laugh. Unless wheel type is different???? So you don't get any servo movement at all if you reverse the throttle channel? Am just in the process of going from sticks to digital wheel type myself, seems easy enough to master after the few goes I've managed.

Check for leaks - certainly won't help to get it running sweet.

Yeah as I say, you can get MT from any LHS - it's like the standard fuel or someit lol - I've used litres of the stuff. I did notice a performance gain from the Optifuel plus it allowed me a little bit more on the tuning to get even more out of the engine.

I would suggest the RTR if you're new to the game and only bashing. RTR has more oil % which will help protect your engine for general bashing. Might find it easier to maintain the tuning with the RTR stuff aswell.

I used it for quite a while as it was the only stuff I could get. Optifuel seems cleaner (less oil out of the exhaust), engine revs better and without a doubt it smells better lol. I've seen a few people say drop MT fuel but plenty of others that don't have a problem with it. There are claims that the Byron's and Optifuels of this world use higher grade ingredients leading to better performance and protection.

Optifuel 25% gave an instant improvement for me. Once you switch over you realise why people are always moaning about MT!!

Anyone know which one better? I'm replacing the standard .25 in an oversize M/T so presume .28 will be fine, providing it got the torque. I'm a bit of a liability when it comes to engines so not wanting to spend much, reasonable .28 will do it. Both of the above can be shipped over for just over 80 squids and I can't find anything better at that price? Any thoughts? Ta, Nik

You should be able to tune it to hold a reasonable idle without stalling for a minute at least. Depending on how much creep you have you can adjust the brakes to compensate and keep it still but then you suffer brakes being on when throttle is released while driving. Does it have to rev quite quickly to get it to idle? If not then clutch might be engaging too early? I used the brake-on method with my last engine as I couldn't get a slow enough idle but then I suffered from spins whenever I dropped off the throttle.

They can make a big difference

Standard (knackered) on the dt-10, it's playing up so haven't used it for ages all sorts for the winner - big buggy wheels, other off road wheels, giant chevrons (2 sets of mad bull rears) and about 5 types for tarmac (although sticky slicks are the default for dry conditions). Tornado's are still new but they're 210mm so there's not many choices at that size lol Depends on the conditions really. If it's gravelly or flat dirt then block tread work better than on-road or spikes. If it's short grass or dirt jumps then the buggy wheels generally get the nod, (plenty of tread patterns around that various people argue are better than others). If it's longer grass or muddy then the chevrons come into their own cos of the extra height and tread depth. Then there's the precision from dry tarmac. Only what I've found anyway. Check out what people say on different tyres, the discussion must have been had on the forum a few times? Like I say, I've always gone for metal servos straight away but with the different tyre options I got, the winner can run pretty much anywhere. The tornado is huge so that'll run fine on anything other than tarmac.

Saying that tho, I have uprated servo's running the steering in all my cars. Can't change diff oil in any and even tho the servos are nothing special, any increase in speed/torque over the standard plastic has to be a good thing. Tyre choice makes a world of difference too.

If you can change it, try the diff oil first. Also try increasing toe-in, expand the turnbuckles a little at a time so the wheels point inwards slightly. That in theory will lower the speed although only very slightly depending on how far you go. I would do the servo last as a decent metal geared one will set you back a lot more and the cheaper options may do the trick.

You need to work out what you want it to achieve. If it's quicker steering when driving fast then quicker/higher torque servo and/or diff oils (start with this cheaper option first) will get you turning quicker when cornering. If you want tighter turning but at lower speeds then just doing the servo arm thing I suggested will actually make it turn slower but more. If you see what I mean? More or quicker thats the question?

Which hole in the servo horn is the rod to the servo saver plugged into? The further away from the pivot point the rod is, the more travel it will have. First of all, check the wheels can move further than they do now. Go too far and something will hit the chassis. Most likely the tyres.

If it's turning circle proper then you'll be limited by the chassis. If you have end point adjustments on the controller then try adjusting those. If the wheels could move further without hitting the chassis, try changing to a different servo horn or which hole the pushrod is attached to. If it's turning circle when driving, ie. quicker turns/spins then yeah diff oils or try toe-in and camber if you got adjustable. All of them will affect the speed and handling on different surfaces.

How new is the car? Have you completed break in fully? If it's new, needle settings will be over rich and this could be the problem. If break in complete then you need to tune the engine by leaning the needles. There's plenty of topics on the forum to explain how. Search for the pinch test on here and try that. How much smoke is coming out. Loads - sounds like too rich, very little - too lean.

Agreed, I've never had the lean bog problem but now I got MT with side tank I'll have to see how it goes.