AlexBruv

Sorry to say dude, but you wont get any upgrades, the car won't handle any 'strong' motors or anything of the sort. The reason being this is a toy grade car, you would need something hobby grade if you want to be able to rebuild, upgrade ETC.

Broke a rod end, then put another one on - going to order RPM rod ends

Just looked on their site, and tbh its great, has like all the necessary upgrades for some cars that you could possibly need!

Just saw this on Wheelspin's page on FaceBook, What do we all think? Platforms - Xbox 360 - PS3

this is what i run instead of the stock ansmann idler gear, works a treat.. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-idler-gear-28t/rc-car-products/364734

=643&ManufacturerID=48]http://www.modelsport.co.uk/32dp/rc-car-categories/9920/992050&MSAttributeID[41]=643&ManufacturerID=48

well this is awkward

Weekend

Thanks for the reply. Ill get a few bottles of 30 and 35wt shock oil, i have also found; soft, medium and hard springs for mad rat so ill get those and go from there, thanks dude. Any more input welcome

Took it for a little drive, attempted to do a rebuild - gave up.

Hi, Got an Ansmann Mad Rat for Christmas with the idea of racing it, never got round to it... (just for starting out) but whilst I have just been driving it about I have been ironing out some flaws with it such as the front chassis brace and the shocks ETC. For when i do start racing i will get a few up-grades such as carbon fiber shock towers, battery holder and rear chassis brace (T-Piece) I may also get some alloy up-grades depending on how it goes. Now my main questions are what weight shock oil (front and rear) should i have and which strength springs are good to have? I do believe that one track is like dry/hard mud and the other is grass with a few jumps (can't guarantee that though) If it helps/changes some answers the tires i will be using are (front) - Schumacher Cut Stagger, (rear) - Pro-Line Bow Tie/Schumacher cat rear blocks. Thanks for reading - Any input welcome

Exactly that, is it a 3 shoe clutch or 2 shoe? If it is 3 shoe you will want these, quite a few members on here have them and i believe they are highly reccomended, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Answer-RC-3-shoe-High-Bite-Low-Wear-Clutch-3-spring-set-/380383259624?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item58909bebe8 With a 2 shoe clutch.... i have no idea

exactly thats why i wasn't sure, as my motor mount that i ordered was shipped via USPS but got delivered by royal mail.

Well not delivered as such, but it's next door due to no one being here when delivered ... But a 3S nano tech LiPo

I think it is normally around $30 all together (sometimes less, sometimes more) including postage and shipping ETC .... should take around 1-2 maybe 3 weeks to get here, i think they normally come by royal fail but don't quote me on that one

http://www.racing-cars.com/sp/category/Old_Cars_and_Parts/subcategory/Rascal/templateid/12/searchbox7/Speed_Secret_-_Option_Parts.html

if you want a bit of slip use a few little balls of blue tack, for full lock use a lot in the diff

They don't look too bad, i was looking to buy one myself but never got round to it ... For the price you can't really go wrong ...

mmm amp ratings.... Continuous - 120A Burst - castle doesn't say, HK150A continuous - 150A burst 1080A ..... You need a battery that goes over the limits, its the motor that draws the amps, the esc just tells you what motor it can handle, if you have a 100A motor with 30A esc you will have smoke... So go for something like 5000mah x 45c or 60-130c nano tech.... or lower mah (for smaller models) like 3800 60-130c Either or just make sure the lipos you get have more amp rating than the motor* needs - to work this out do this 5000mah - 60C so you would do, 5.0 x 60c = 300A so that lipo's will be fine on even 1/8 aplications, you will also not have to worry about the smaller aplications,

They are struggling? ***