martin34

ditch drag brake for sure !

drag brakes ruin your jumps{bring the nose down too soon},touring car thing really

Drag brakes are for rock crawlers, you dont want it for racing, buggies, any rc really exept rock crawling :-)

Normally 10 days

Hope the orders not been lost in the Christmas post.It could be In customs

i got my order in 5days once but got hit by customs

I have mounted 2.8 tires to 3.2 rims before quite an easy job to do .. Your combination thou is a tad tighter. should be doable thou good luck with it

Thanks mate.is it as simple as just cutting off the inside bead of the tyre?

That's all i did and take the extra lip of the rim if you have one.. Befor you go cut them thou just check to see if you get a nice flat contact point before you start to glue them !!

worn ball joints and ptfe tape. Why didn't I think of that!

it's nuggets like that which make me always scan the status updates now!

I even put some round the part of the screw that is inside the ball when needed For imo it provides the perfect balance odf slop removal yet maintain the "give"

White.. then dye them whatever colour you choose

lol I did think of that but they have to be Blue or Black.I don't want to end up with to much Blue but then Black looks stock

Everyone has blue. So I'd go for black purely on that reason alone!

The water doesn't need to be on the boil when you dye the chassis. As long as the water is boiling hot by the time you put the chassis in. A grey E-revo chassis should be black in the time it takes the water to cool.

Everytime ive dyed traxxas plastics I do two tubs of boiling water leave the parts in one on a soak then prepare the dye bucket then transfer the parts in to it.

The idea was it would soften the plastic up to allow the dye to take better and everytime my parts was pure black within 10 mins I thought of it like our skin in soak it opens up lol sounds strange but I swear 10 min and its pure black. I like it though when it has a sort of metalic shine to it too almost a faint bronze. Or if...

My merv was pretty scuffed up before dye but after it looked new.

Some people say ritt dye ruins the plastics but I dont think that's true for traxxas . Hpi or rpm plastic. But ive heard of some plastics shriveling up in the hot dye.

Ive also reheated dye and reused it with the same results

No mate. http://dhrc.rchomepage.com/RolloutCalc.htm

I cant click on the link mate?I was going to run an 18th pinion with 44th spur.If I left the pinion 20th what size spur would I need to make the equivalent of 18/44?Hope that made sense

Why not it's a great kit...?

Because I have been looking up online and I can fit it with a few stand offs and I can use a turnbuckle to strengthen the shuck tower at the top:)

Oh and because I have rpm arms so wouldn't use the whole kit

I had one on mine and seemed ok, certainly looked good

Cheers AJ I will order one on payday

Its a 20 tooth

try 18t pinion and check temps, if they are cool then go up a tooth, if hot go down a tooth until it gets cool

Thanks mate I will order an 18t and give it a go

decals no ?

Internal decals?

The only decals I have found go on the outside of the shell.I will try internal

mine reads 3.61 and 3.53 and all at 7.14

its fine .

I know the first mx vs atv was good and online is mint aswell

Thanks for that.I dont have any red here just blue.Would that be ok or do i take it it wouldnt dry?

blue drys hard, red doesnt

Well i have used a bit of ptfe tape and it has worked.the bearings are nice and firmly in place now.

Hot Racing makes some real nice parts, where did you order from? liquid rc?

I think it was bizzare hobbies on ebay US.there is a HR bell crank steering upgrade on there aswell.All ali with 3 different springs and bearings which the stock xs doesnt have.

yep great at full blast:)

great tune

now go play intergalatic

Another great tune

i thought that.i looked at your profile and saw all largescale cars and a savage xs:)

i got an Ep8 too, its supposed to be sold but its lingering like a bad smell :/

Hopefully you will be gone soon mate and the sale will be sorted

rubber for areas were dirt gets to metal for the least dirt ereas

or you can get hybrid bearings where one side has a metal shield and the other has rubber. win win then

I find that metal shielded ones tend to last longer, but I always put rubber shielded ones in hubs