cutting42

Coming back tonight, get in tomorrow morning. Not sure if I will be up to racing Thurs but will def have it for Sunday week

Unfortunately that would put me over the tax free limit but I did think about it

As soon as i saw it, I knew my son was getting a used 4PL for his birthday! I am still in the USA so have not had a chance to use it yet but I am really looking forward to it.

I just got one in the USA for under 300 squids, well happy:

Awesome, I am pleased you like it.

Looks like a rebrand of a std charger, I have the Core version, other versions also exist, the original is maybe SkyRC but I am not sure. If this is the case then it can do all battery types Nimh, Nicad, Lead acid, Lipo, Life etc etc. Decent charger IMO

Outstanding, I win ;-) lol Great car, real out of the box racer and strong enough to bash; you will have a blast with it. If you are bashing get some Hobbyking turnigy nanotech Lipo batteries. The 210 takes stick pack shorty or saddle pack. Stick will probably give you the biggest capacity but you are fine with any. If you are going to race you might want BRCA approved batteries where Gens Ace and IP are decent value. I use Orion and Vampire but they are more expensive. Charger - I first used a Core UAC 50 which works fine but you can get a clone Imax B6 for half the price from Hobbyking which many seem to use.

Durango DEX210 http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/rtr-models/team-durango/team-durango-dex210-race-ready-rtr-red.html

More power is always good. You can solder faster as the joint heats up faster meaning less time for heat soak of components. Heat soak is what kills electronics and melts plastic ancillaries. My gas iron is 125W rated and is awesome.

All you need is Acetone. Get a sealable plastic box that you can fit the wheels and tyres into and put 20mm depth of acetone in there and leave overnight. Tyres will come off easily. You will need to dry out the inserts before refitting.

Be very careful with the fly sky receivers as a cheap option for Futaba. Futaba use two radio systems called FASST and FHSS the fly sky only works with FASST transmitters not FHSS which is what the 4pl uses. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Of course you can get a car for

Did this help, some feedback would be nice

Hiya They are pretty tricky to repair and AMB (now MyLaps) will not repair them. I have seen a few home repairs but you need to be brave and strip away the casing and expose wires/solder tabs. This was on RCTech http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/340679-amb-transponder-repair.html The wire on mine ripped at the end, so I cut open part of the case at the bottom. Using a knife carefully/ slowly remove most of the epoxy until you can reach the two solder tap. And just simply solder new wire and I use glue gun to cover the hole. Then use sticker / velcro to cover up. The other possibility is to trade it for a new Mylaps hybrid transponder but you are still looking at

Its quite a complicated topic. However a few thoughts. Its all about keeping the tyre in contact with the surface, ie if it is in the air, or only part of the tyre is on the ground, you will have less grip. Tyre selection is extremely important, if you have worn or incorrect tyres for the conditions, all the shock tweaking in the world will not help you. Soft springs allow the wheel to follow bumpy tracks. The oil weight in conjunction with the holes in the shock piston determine how fast the damping permits the spring to move. Light weight oils allow fast spring action but will let the suspension bottom out on jumps or big bumps. But a soft setup lets the buggy roll and lose traction as the wheels camber changes reducing cornering speeds. Hard springs allow much less movement but will get very bouncy as the wheels skip across bumps. On a smoother track you can get stiffer and use more damping and the buggy will be much faster. Most people I know use a stiffer spring and firmer damping on the front compared to the rear as 2WD are usually rear grip limited. If you have to much front grip you will be spinning out everywhere. You can create more steering by softening the front or stiffening the rear a rear anti roll bar can help with this as well. If this fails most people run extra weight at the front as well. Try braking hard into the corner, this throws weight forward increasing the steering. You can experiment with the shock piston as well. The holes in the piston create what is called the "pack" of the shock. You can change the number of holes and the size of the holes. Two large holes will have less pack and will react quicker on a track with fast shallower bumps whereas 4 smaller holes will pack up quickly and provide more resistance allowing the buggy to recover after a large jump without bottoming out. Both pistons can offer the same low speed damping but react differently to track types. Top drivers will tune all these features for a specific track.

You want Silicone grease like Alex97 pointed you to or similar from Associated/Losi etc etc. The black moly grease is only used on the thrust bearing but std grease will do there if you don't have any black moly grease. I looked up the manual for the XTR and it does specify silicone grease for the diff balls.

Another vote for velcro tape. Get a reel of 3M stuff from B&Q, lasts for ages and the adhesive is wicked strong.

Darren is the boss and still there, john is the new shop manager, you did well to see Darren out of his office out back!

Agreed, new manager is called John Spencer

DMS Racing in Watford http://www.dms-racing.com/ Not really a browsing shop, more a counter to pick up internet orders but it is staffed and the new shop manager is very knowledgeable and happy to help. More focussed on racing Hobbystores in St Albans https://www.hobbystores.co.uk/default.asp?WMFN=HOB_Weblet&WMFT=D&WPG=HOB_HomePage1&HS=06 Good for bashing cars and a wider range on non car type stuff.

Like I said, ball diffs don't use oil so weight is irrelevant. Just get the greases I mentioned for when you need to rebuild the diff. If the diffs are in good shape you should not need to rebuild for a while. To change the tightness of the diffs on a ball diff you just alter how tight you do up the screw holding the diff together. When you do need to rebuild a ball diff take a look at one of the many youtube vids on the topic such as this one, it is for Team Associated but the principles are the same for all ball diffs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AB7-qCq3k-I#t=39 It is actually a lot easier to tune a ball diff as just a few turns of a screw can alter the handling of the car. With gear diffs you have to mess about with different weight oils and it is a real faff.

Ball diffs don't use oil. All you will need is grease to lubricate the balls and for the thrust bearing. I use Associated diff grease (AS6591) and Associated Black grease for the thrust bearings ( AS6588).