Harvey

I have just got my genesis sport esc back from mtroniks along with a new sport motor. I have tried it in my tourer and it just will not run, its like the car has a miss fire! It just wont get up to speed! I have emailed mtroniks so will see what they say. The odd thing is tho, i have now got it running quite sweet on 4 cells, but try 6 again, and nope, cogging again. Its faster on 4 cells then 6! lol The only possibility i am now left with is something to do with the 7.2v FET servo, as the esc has no output ive connected the servo directly to the positive batt terminal on the esc, but surely this wouldnt cause problems? And it works fine on 4.8v???

I would recomend a demon based monster too, especially as his local track is aldershot!

Havent used this forum for ages! Come acriss this post with my schumacher and my Tamiya EVO 4. How things have changed! Didnt realise i had the evo 4 back in august! I no longer use the mission, the evo 4 has changed a bit! (hop ups!) but needs binning!! I just cant get it to perform. I also have a Tamiya TB EVO 3 Surikarn which rocks! Best car i have so far. I will have to get some new pics up.

Yeah the mission is a great car to start racing with. I would say maybe even go for the S1 version instead, presumably this is about £80 now? And use the extra money towards spares, better electrics etc. Yes the new Tamiya TA05 is a great car. Superbly effcient, they are so soo quiet!

Missions are usually superbly efficient cars. My old one that my brother uses i have done away with the belt tensioner completely and it bloody flies! Infact i think it would wallop my tamiya down the stright! Just not had the chance to see as hes never good enough to race in my final! I should check the diff pulleys and belt teeth are all in good condition and also that no bearings are seized etc or driveshafts binding or similar.

Not really, just got a compressor for about £40 from makro. You can get airbrushes for dirt cheap (i paid £5 for mine lol) but i dont hold out much for it, havent used it yet but will soon. I want a badger airbrush which is about £60 from the states (or £120+ here!!)

Yeah maxamps seem good. If you look on ebay, i believe maxamps have an online store which is even cheaper then their main online store! RC mushroom are great too, i ordered one weekend they were here on the thurs!! 4 days from HK! impressive! Is about 7-10 post for each 6 cells though.

The only problem with adding a new cell to your old pack is that the new cell will be in much better condition, more voltage and run time etc. But it shouldnt do any harm just wont be performing as well as a new 7 cell pack!

Yeah ebay is a good place to look. I suspect you could pick up a near race ready set up for anywhere from 100 (less likely) to £250. Keep ya eyes open and something will turno up.

I wouldnt bother with the TC4 RTR especially if your going to race it.. Why? * It comes with a 15 turn motor. The common classes run at most places is stock (27T) and Superstock (19T). With a 15T you would be forced to run modified (if catered for) and then you would be uncompetitive. So you would need a new motor. * It comes with a bollocks LRP AI speed controller. Just right for going wrong! * TC4's break diff outdrives for a past time. Would need some upgrades. To get a set up for electric racing is not cheap unfortunately. best bet is to have a look at some local club. See whats going well (probably the X-rays!) and what you like. And of course your budget. What are you looking to spend all in?

Or pop along to ebay and you can get: * 3x1800mah for £15 (+4.75 postage) * 3x3300mah nimhs for £33 (+£4 post) I would recomend the 3x3300. There no GP3300, but they are about 1/3 of the cost! And for bashing they are ideal. To find the 3300's do a seller search for the name vapextech and you should find his/her shop vapextech batteries and chargers.

I have 2 touring cars that i use for racing. First up i have my indoor carpet racing car. Its a Warpspeed Schumacher Mission. It has a recently acquired Trinity P2K2 pro motor, has a Novak XRS sport esc and 27mhz radio. It has several purple alloy upgrades, and the threaded shock absorber upgrade Next up is my Tamiya. I havent had this long, and am using it for outside racing. At the moment it has a front one way (standard) so i could do with getting a diff. It has a Vega power stock motor (with monster 2 mag as back up) and my reserve speedo - Mtroniks ECO20! (with reverse desabled). You get bad interferance where i race with 27mhz so i have a 40mhz tranny and reciever on the way for it Has a bluebird superspeed servo (taken off my mission - need another one now for the mission as it struggles with the acoms indoors!)

The reason is this. Your charger being 400Mah means it will charge at 400mah an hour. Your 1800 takes 1800mah. 400mah x 5 hours = 2000mah (minus a bit for ineffcienies). So after 5 hours the 1800 will have charged so will get warm (make sure you take it off and dont leave it on to overcharge). Now your 3300 is a bigger capacity so will take longer to charge. 8 hours on your charger would be 3200mah. So you would probably need about 9 hours on your charger to charge the 3300. Again make sure you dont overcharge. I would advise getting a new charger. A peak detect charger (that will cut off when max charge is reached). It will also charge faster (say 3.5Amp charge rate (3500mah) meaning it will charge your 3300 in about an hour.

I have some intellect 3600. Performance wise they are superb. On average they are probaby a little bit better then GP3300 but not much. IE a good GP3300 will beat an average IB3600. But a Good intellect will rock. They are same size as GP3300 too (maybe a tiny bit smaller) so fitment is no problems. There is one probem with them tho (well 2 if you count the non BRCA legal fact!)in that they are more sensitive to overcharging. You ideally need a charger with adjustable delta peak values. I have killed one cell in my brand new matched IB3600 pack If your chassis fits 3700 then i agree with someone else said here - try IB3800, or if BRCA legal is important and you find them cheap enough - GP3700.

I cant believe someone hasnt snapped this up!! I would have it but i just bought a tamiya evo IV this month!

are the motor screws too long and catching the armature??

My first own one was a Tamiya TL01. Before that i had adjusted/rebuilt etc a TA02 (wasnt my car) I havent built any others from scratch as all other cars ive bought were 2nd hand! But of course they have all been stripped down and rebuilt numerous occasions. These being 2x schumacher missions and a TC3. Just won a Tamiya TB EVO IV on ebay so should have that soon

They are all pants and you want a real car . Rear wheel drive all the way!! Evo's are sensational cars but not my cup of tea. Jap cars rule tho. Dont think i will ever own a non jap car again.

If i had some more cash.... Id be soo tempted!! If you still have it after payday (unlikely) ill consider it! But good luck in selling it, shouldnt take long at that price.

yeah ba57ard pretty much has it covered. Only thing id correct is Nimh's started at 2600 Basically nicads are being phased out. Nimhs are much better for the environment. And i believe they are/have stopped making nicads. Id always buy nimhs from now on, just not worth going for nicad. Can get 3000 nimhs off ebay for soo cheap now. BUT you do need the correct charger!

stock spur is 86. That gearing combination will give you 7.53. As i said before, a little conservative, but at least safe. If you were to use the 20t layshaft it would be overgeared and risk burning out the motor.

All depends what layshaft pulley he is using. With a 20T layshaft and stock spur (86) your looking at a 6.5 FDR. With a 20T layshaft: 22T pinion = 7.04 21T pinion = 7.37 With a 20 tooth layshaft i would run a 21 tooth pinion. 17T layshaft. Now i believe the IR with a 17t is 2.1. So, a 17t layshaft with Duff's 24t pinion will give us an FDR of 7.53. A little undergeared, but not a bad starting place. A 25t pinion would give FDR 7.22. I think as your going for a quad mag, starting with a 24 pinion, 86 spur and 17t layshaft will be fine. If you were finding it a little slow, i would either; a) change the spur (maybe an 84 - fdr of 7.35) But this means a spur adapter as i dont think schumacher makes an 84 (my choice) run the 20T layshaft with a 21t pinion. IMO 7.22 (86 spur, 17 layshaft, 25 pinion) will be putting a lot of strain wear and tear on a quad mag - but you never know it might be ok as every motor is different.

Yeah its bashley, you are fast if you manage a 19 lap in stock. V fast. so thats like what... 300/18 = 16.6s. If you can lap in under 17s your doing well, thats an idea of the size of track. I use a Vega stock motor there and geared about 7.27. I perhaps should gear up a little for some more pace, but my motor gets warm as it is. And as i race more for a bit of fun id rather not cook my motor for the sake of a bit more speed!

Where would i start! I could go on forever. however i will keep the list short!!! A nice Toyota corolla AE86 COUPE! (ie a real coupe not the bollocks fastback variant you get in this country) A AW11 Toyota MR2 pushing about 300-400bhp. Mmm, 400bhp/ton sounds good to me Of course, i would have to own a Porsche 911. Any would do! And then maybe something like an aston DB9 for cruising in

If your not ideal with a soldering iron i would recommend you get a freind who can, or let your LHS do the job as deans connectors are not the easiest things to solder. Especially the gold/ gold plated versions!