madwestmo

ends today at around 7pm!

Hot Bodies Cyclone TC

Im after the high downforce one to fit , leaving wing ''B'' out of it , it leaves me 'a' or 'c' they dont look that different but are meant to be opposites , so to speak

hi, I recently purchased one of the following http://www.hbeurope.com/feature.php?partNo=66811〈=de This may be a stupid question but it comes with 3 wings , one for high/medium/low downforce but i dont know which one is which , all they have on them is A , B and C Can anyone tell me which one is which

haha yeh its a bit mad in a 2wd , turned it down on my transmitter tho but its nice to have the power there if needed as you said u can always get another motor , think most of em are around

oh by the way when i fitted my 60a/5.5t in my 2wd buggy i had to take all the motor wires off the ESC and replace them with longer ones to reach the motor at the back of the car , something to think about

ive got the 5.5t ezrun and 60a esc in my ansmann mad rat , and they work great , admittably the 5.5t is a bit too much power but unless you have a crappy transmitter then you can turn the power down anyways

is the profile on my esc going to change my temperatures much ? it has 1-9 (smooth-aggressive) thanks for all the help so far

timing is at 0 , drive frq is at default , everything mechanically seems to be running fine as is the diff is it not true running a smaller pinion will keep the temps down ?

Hi, Having some problems gearing my touring car , I run a cyclone TC which has a internal of 2.16 , im running a speed passion 13.5 brushless motor with a speed passion GT2.0 LPF ESC , for the track i race at i want to be around 4.7-5 FDR , Currently i use 48dp gears due to the track been outside to avoid stripping etc (cyclone's use 64dp as standard) Now i use a 78t spur and a 33t pinion which brings me out at 5.11 FDR but my motor is extremely hot after a 5minute race (cant hold thumb on it for more than 2 seconds) To reduce motor temps do i have to go smaller on the spur and smaller on the pinion but still achieving a FDR of 5 , for example 70t spur + 30t pinion , will this lower my temps ?? will this still give me the same top speed ?? wud this even mesh ?? Thanks for any help PS this is on rubber tyres too

well

well i dont know if you tested how tight it is , but ill tell ya anyways , if you hold one wheel in one hand and with your thumb of that hand hold the spur gear and then try turn the wheel in your hand... you should have it as tight as you can but too the point where it isnt making resistance when u turn the wheels but also not too loose either or you will be loosing power doing this works for me on my cyclone for carpet and tarmac hope this helps

definatly get the tt01 over the e10

i personally wouldnt buy one , and it wont be any good in anything but a touring car because its only 40a if i was you i would go for 60a Ezrun off ebay from Hong Kong and that will run touring car/buggys/truggys absolutely fine and you will have tons of power

just solder it too your battery terminals on your speed control , works for me

the spokes on the inside of the wheel will be hitting the grubb screw that sticks out thats holding your hinge pin in place , but dont tighten the grubb screw so it doesnt catch because this is what i did and as soon as you get a knock it will snap the hinge pin and probably the suspension arm

well after the racing on sunday , i used the BCR setup but slightly softer and i went there with this setup and went with R24's for tyre choice because the weather was quite cold , well the first heat didnt go well to say the least... The car seemed to be jogging out all over the place making the handling terrible , this was with 8mm droop , i think the slight bumps in the track was making this setup quite useless.... So for the second heat i reverted back to the standard setup thats in the manual , and things went alot better and i come third , the back end of the car was still stepping out so i changed the droop to slightly less at the back and different shock position and it sorted it out for the next heat After changing the gearing for the last heat i see my lap times improve and i got third place on the grid in the final The final started off well but after been knocked by another car and doing several rolls off the track my transponder dropped out and the marshall cudnt find the clip so i carried on , i kept up with the pace of the leaders and finished third (i think)

i believe there is some here RS4 Setups

sounds like a setup problem to me

and that radio will sell for lots of ebay too , they go very quick

gone slightly softer and using sorex 32's cos its quite sunny here , we will see how it goes today

yup what he said

by the way please check the track out and maybe come along heres the website Leverton Raceway

yeah the clubs really coming along nicely , first meeting a couple of weeks ago now and they had about 20 buggys and 20 touring car so a good turn out , plus they just redone the whole of the off roaders parts of the tracks The time i was there was a hot day (for the uk anyway) and i ran sorex 32's and got grip after a couple of warm up laps I found these for the cyclone TC on the US hot bodies site Setups Are the first and second one for tarmac ? Oh and im the only one there with a Cyclone , they all have Xrays ^^

Hiya, The spring outdoor racing season has recently started at my local club Heres a piccy of the track Now ive seen lots of touring car setups for outdoor/rubber for my cyclone TC but alot of these setups are for places much warmer (japan, usa etc) I was just wondering if anyone had any tips for racing in the UK outdoors , seeing as the track/ambient temp is alot colder here , will these setups i see from Hara racing in japan work here , presumably they are getting alot more grip on a warmer track than i am on a cold one So if anyone has any info on tyres , suspension hardness/softness , droop to share then that would be great Thanks