colmo

For shocks, check out the CML site for FTX Vantage or Edge (the 2wd) shocks - they're about

The Mad Monkey has a ball diff identical to those in the other two models. Ceramic balls are recommended. http://www3.ansmann..../mad_monkey.pdf For all three models, ball bearings are highly recommended, and on the buggies, replacing the shocks with something else is a good idea - they're more protected on the truck, so not so critical there.

Until you can prove the motor works, it's worthless. All you actually need, presuming it does work, is a sensored speed controller capable of a 10.5, not difficult on 2S. Even a Hobbywing Justock,

It's a recommended upgrade to the bumper of the SC10, and has prolonged the life of one of my buggies in the hands of a learner cousin while racing! I also use their ball cups - they're considered the best. In short, RPM do really, really tough plastic.

For me, electric is the clear winner. I just raced at a nitro club last weekend, and couldn't believe the noise - like hoards of large, angry bees. The mechanics were also constantly checking their cars too, so the noise continued between races too. There were electric 1/8ths running with the nitros, and they were acknowledged to be a lot faster, though with shorter runtimes. That being said, powering anything over 1/10th scale quickly gets expensive with electric, whereas powering anything under 1/8th scale is plain difficult with nitro. What you plump for depends on the surface that you have available - get something of a scale large enough to cope with the terrain, but not so large it goes over your budget for running costs. With bashing, runtime becomes more important - the major costs with electric are right at the start, with the layout on lipos and charger, and to get, say 30-45mins runtime, you'd need 2-3 lipos (and keep one on the charge). My preference would be for the hardcased ones, as that eliminates much chance of disaster from a punctured pack. All that will cost

If you're going to faff around with 3S+ lipos, get a Hobbywing 80A esc (Ezrun or Xerun, sensorless or sensored respectively) and any 540 brushless motor around maybe 3000-3500kv (about what your 10.5 was), if your motor is indeed dead. Giantcod have a range of sensorless inrunner motors that would do, get one with a 3.175mm shaft, 35mm diameter and 50-60mm length (50mm is standard for 540 motors, 60mm counts as a 550 motor, tends to have a 5mm shaft needing a Mod 1 pinion, and is becoming the norm in 4x4 short course). Better still, Modelsport have the HPI Q-Base Flux, a rebadged Mamba Max Pro, for

I've been looking into exactly this topic so thought I'd revive this thread. Has anyone tried the new Fastrax Bullseye SC tyres? At under

A sealed can motor might keep the water out of the Hall sensors, and the connectors can be waterproofed. I just don't understand why they didn't do the job properly, leaving it to the user to complete.

They tout the kit as waterproof, yet it uses a regular sensor cable? the connection between cable and motor is surely vulnerable to water without something gummed over it?

Google for the phrase 'Macnum endurance oople' for an account of an endurance event using only Macnum stock kits + ball bearings (the only must-have hop-up, costing around

There are a number of 3rd-party 2.4Ghz systems that will fit Futaba and Hitec, not just Spectrum. I've just ordered the Assan one from Hobbycity, but there is the Corona v2 DSSS available from Hobbycity and here in the UK from Giantcod - I opted not to go for it due to some reports of glitching, and no confirmation that the latest modules no longer had the problem. The main attraction of these are the cheap receivers, but they are also usable in flight-oriented radios for up to 8 channels. The nice thing about 2.4Ghz is that it is legal for use in both ground and air rc vehicles.

Tbh, there aren't any bad dSLRS now - they're all excellent. Most of the budget should be reserved for lenses - camera bodies come and go, but glass is forever...

Get the hardcase one for the same price (edit - $0.20 less!) - link.

I'm seeing HPI Formula Tens and 3Racing F109s appearing in the UK, along with the much more expensive F104. The HPI is mostly plastic, whereas the F109 looks like it crashed into RCMart's warehouse - lots and lots of blue bling...they're almost exactly the same price,

Nip down to Maplin - they have generic component boxes of varying size for about a pound. You could drill some holes, then seal them afterwards with waterproof silicone.

I just bought stulee666's F201 - the 3Racing chassis is a nice piece of kit! I just have to decide what way to go with the electrics - I can't spare a sensored brushless kit, but could install either my no-name no-limit brushed speedo and a 27T/19T motor, or the sensorless brushless from the Nitrotek in it. Wouldn't the Mtroniks-made Modelsport ESCs be a better bet for the money? They've got to be better than the Tamiya, at the least?

PM sent re: motors

So you mounted a F201 body on a HPI? Would that work, vice versa?

PMed re the F201.

Might have been me - I was looking for alternative shells so I could use my kit shell for shelf queen purposes. I already have that on my watch list, and I know Dinball is always a good source of Tamiya stuff. It would be nice to get modern-style shells for the F201, though, and was interested in the HPI Formula Ten shell, as that car is the same length as the F201.

I was just buying a former workplace locker (you know the type, about 6 foot high) for my shed, and got it for £15. I was happy with the deal, and struck up a conversation with the owner of the company about eBay - and then he offered me a job listing stuff for him! It couldn't have happened without my shed - so you see, sheds find you gainful employment!

The brushless speedos don't look anything like Mtroniks, though. The handheld controller doesn't look familiar either. It's not Hobbywing-made, anyway.

Could the sensor cable have come loose? That sounds like severe cogging to me. If it's under a year old, you could get a warranty replacement from the retailer you bought it from.