louder

Well I have the Savox on it's way and have ordered 2 BECs. One for my new build and one for my mini revo. I run 2 Savox micros in there and I have noticed latency issues with them responding under full throttle or after the model has been run for a while and starts to get hot. I was planning on just using a Y splitter from the battery. Quickly solder up what is essentially a parallel Y splitter and attach the single side to the battery and one of the splits to the ESC and the other to the BEC. That way I can easily remove it should something go wrong such as either unity fail. Plus I can then use varying lengths so I can move it around, this is especially important on my drift chassis. I am currently thinking about covering large sections of the chassis is velcro and then putting velcro on the underside of the components. That way I can move stuff around till I find it balanced. Also it will be a lot easier for chassis strip downs between events as the electronics just unplug and rip off the chassis. I have never tried it but I remember back when the B2 was popular lots of guys at the club near me doing it.

Ok, that seems sensible. Thanks for all the advice. It's on my list to order for my new kit.

Throw a little bit of black grease on them (or any preferred driveline grease). It will help it move around and stop friction pushing and pulling the pin. I know. Check the grub screw has lock tight on it as well. I put the grease in the pin well and wiggle it around a lot. Like of a lot of RTRs some parts that should be greased just aren't. I just guess its because they might sit in the warehouse for a while and get drifty/dusty so then it creates abrasion when in use. Although I am sure you already know this. I figure I would put it just incase other people read this thread and don't!

XTM XST I think. The chassis and what I can see of the front a-arms look like it at least. What do I win if I am right?

Its a really good motor and ESC. I have the Reventon S and the DOKYO drift spec V3 10.5 turn motor. Very smooth. All I would say is I wish I had gone for the standard 10.5 as the drift one has a modified fan on it and it makes 'drift sound effects'. It is just noisy as hell and makes a weird whine, I have one of the plastic fan rotors crack and break and damage a sensor (they did replace it for free though). Just really annoying that it will most likely happen again. Cashew. If you are saving for an E10, it might be for saving the little bit extra and getting the sprint 2. It's a far better chassis over the E10.

The cracked hexs could be from them being rather soft plastic. I found under power on and power off the pin was able to move and cause damage to the hex over time. Did you build it or buy it as a kit? Were they greased? It does look like it?!

Any updates on this little beast?

Yes sort of. I have had to re read it about 4 times but I think I understand. Basically as opposed to pulling the wire out of the ESC RX connector I would be pulling it out of the extension cable. Then just unplug the extension when I want to use a pit card. Seems simple enough. My main concern initially was comparing it to the CCBEC as it only had 2 wires leaving, of course you don't program the BEC through a link like the CC one so it doesn't need that extra power. My other question was, while it has a power switch on it, surely thats only for the receiver and servos? Won't the motor and ESC be turns on all the time?

Thanks 7.5A would be more than enough. Will the lipo cutoff on my ESC will still function with a BEC installed?

Which one is that? I am currently looking at the CCBEC. They don't seem too difficult to wire in.

Oh ok, I think you might have the flying fish 2 then! I believe the original just came with solid none adjustable links (then again I could be wrong, I have been before!). Those turnbuckles will adjust your camber

Hmmmm OK. I need to go and do some reading up! Thanks guys.

On the flying fish there isn't really a way to adjust the camber. On most drift cars you have things called turnbuckles. These are tiny adjustable linkages. If you look at the front or rear a-arms of the car, those extra struts (aka linkages) adjust settings on the car. I have attached a little picture so you can see a camber linkage EDIT: The picture won't attach so here is a link to it! http://www.beginningrc.com/img-rc/43_1-rc_suspension_arm.jpg Basically you use a little wrench to rotate the camber linkage, increasing or decreasing the camber of the car. It is the same both front and rear. On a lot of entry level cars you have to purchase upgrades to make this adjustable. On some cars you don't turn the bar but you turn the little plastic ball cap at the end of the bar, this does the same this it just varies from car to car as to how it is adjusted. I know you were talking about the E10 with me and I just want to note I don't believe that has adjustable camber from stock. The Sprint 2 does though, so I would say spend the extra cash and get a Sprint 2 if it is an HPI model you want to go with. Yeah it will do that, as you increase the throttle turn in more and you should be able to balance the car in the drift. Don't forget to practice going the other way as well! I always find its easier to go one way than the other because I always used to drift to the right. If you want to tighten up the circle steer into the drift more. Try and have the car at a really extreme angle. Think Ken Block! To maintain that forward facing rotation is rather hard and a very valuable skill to learn. If you are getting better at controlling the size of the circle, try drifting round a chair leg, you have to be consistent otherwise you won't fit under the chair. If you have the space try driving into the drift, spinning around the object a few times then coming out of it in a controlled manner. You can use a figure of 8 set up for this. It also gets you to practice going both ways. You will be DK in no time!

Ok thank you. Yes I now need to do some research on wiring! Are all BEC's pretty much the same? Will any BEC work? I know very little about them.

Well it doesn't so much as make it easier as just changes the handling. There are quite a few people who run ball diffs in the front over a one way, partially the all wheel drifters as it allows the wheels to bite and help with the flick, especially with some negative front camber so you get some more grip on the turns (although it does effect turn in so you will need to give it some more power). That is how most all wheel drifters I know run.

My new D3. I am just looking at a the Savox SC-1252MG. I want the steering to be as quick and responsive as possible so I am thinking it might need a separate one? I am actually looking for new radio gear so I'm now checking all the rx's. Just trying to find the BEC output on my ESC currently. EDIT: My ESC has a 6v BEC. I thought it would do after what you said but I just wanted to make sure.

Hey, I just wondered how many of you guys run an external BEC opposed to the one in your ESC? I was poking around some servos today and I saw a few that can run at a pretty high voltage and wondered if it's worth running them at that rate as opposed to through the ESC BEC. That way getting the most out of the servo. My main reason for asking is I have never thought about the voltage my servo is running at. It has just never really occurred to me that it might not be running at 6v it might be running at 4v.

Cool! Good luck with it when it arrives, looking forward to the thread.

Yeah the Type-C look great and will suit the scooby nicely. Plus I have a thing for black rims.

A one way on the front gives a hand break effect when you come off the power or break. Swinging the back end round. This is pretty aggressive and great for technical tracks. If you come off angle just power off/break and the back comes round again. It also increases turn under power so you can whip the back end round again out of corners to the next. You will find under breaking (say you enter a corner too fast) you have to gradually let the slow opposed to coming off the throttle. A locked front has a similar effect but far less aggressive seeing as there is a no sudden transition as the wheels are always under the same permitters, both running the same speed there for, there is not such an aggressive change. The main difference is the wheels won't turn in as much, meaning you will need to kick the back end with the accelerator more to get it to come round the car. The basic difference when driving is the one way is more aggressive when turning in, you find the back swings round and you have to counter steer to stop the rear spinning round on you. A locked front you have to work a little bit harder to get the back end to come round and you only have to counter steer on the exit to straighten it out or to make the drift wider. A popular mod is to run a one way on the shaft and a ball or one way on the front to give a further hand break effect. This is popular with counter steer. As is running a one way in the front. Edit: Yes, its pretty much the way into 2wd drifting and more advanced techniques. Korogashi is where is where you back of the throttle to the point where the wheels are no longer under power and spinning but just rolling. This is why some counter steer drifters massive differences between the front and back wheel speeds using different pulleys so korogashi is easier as you need the back wheels to drift sideways. True korogashi takes immense control and a balance between throttle and steering and is vastly effected by your entry speed etc.

Yeah a roll bar would be great! It looks awesome. The bright chrome on the grill is very shiny compared to the rest. It looks great man.

Looks sweet. I believe the term is 'hellaflush' haha. Very nice. What rims are you getting?

Thanks I have had 2 or 3 different servos in. I can't find one I like (mostly because I am cheap and won't spend good money!) so I always ask everyone.

You can get one for

The drop top took the guy 8 months!