louder

Very lovely

And do they work ok as far as attaching them? Them not pulling the paint off? Are the mounts easy to adjust?

So for my new build I am using my brand new D3 that I am currently building as I am I going to convert the old one to RWD (I will open a thread for that when I do it so you can follow along!). Anyway. I have never ever used stealth mounts and I starting looking into over the past new days and so far I am liking these the best. Has anyone use these? I am thinking velcro on the bar and then some on the body? I perviously did this one off road buggies but never tried it with an on road. Has anyone else? I can see the magnet fittings getting expensive and the adjustable height ones are flexible with free floating joints and I can see them moving while I drive. Which do you guys use and what do you get the best results with? Post up pictures if possible!

Looks very nice. I like the honeycomb painting on the shell, what mask did you use?

There isn't a thread for the drop top, just a gif from when speed hunters went to an event and one was there. From what I understand the guy was using turnbuckles and plastic card and a servo. It allowed it to fold like a merc roof. Love the colour. Beautiful.

How did you find the cheeta ESC and Motor? Did you ever run them or with the mounting issues couldn't? I am kind of temped by one for the price as I have a very old AE belt TC chassis and am looking for a cheap combo to throw in. I have never had the SkyRC stuff.

They could just make it so you are not allowed to run with one in during races. You have to have it fitted to the car, that takes up space, weight and they aren't exactly power friendly. They are useful during set up and practice or while you are learning as it allows you to adjust settings really quickly but I can't see it being aimed at a racer in all honesty. More of a nifty bit of tech. I would guess in the future ESCs may have it built it.

The Speed Passion one is in the car as part of the circuit. It connects from the ESC to the RX so it can stay in the car all the time. Works rather well.

I have never been asked by anyone if they can have a go. I do fly heli's and I have found they are often compared to the indoor co-ax counter parts and I have had people come up and physically try to take the controller off me to show me what they can do. In one such case I did have my hand knocked, flew upside down and couldn't hit the mixing switch..ended badly. I tend to find I pick quite quiet bashing spots so it's never been too much of a problem. I think the biggest issue I have ever had is when I was about 17 I went out with my T-Maxx and a group of slightly older kids tried to steal it from me. Luckily they couldn't catch it and I could run, it must have been a funny sight, me running behind my Maxx driving it while being chased by kids. I tend to get questions about 1) How much did it cost 2) How fast does it go 3) Where did you get it from. I tend to run the car over to myself and take off the shell and explain a little bit about the car. I nearly always have sticks in my tool box or bag so give them a modelsport one or whatever if they are young and they seem happy enough.

A replacement 1.5mm driver tip, some thread lock and some nice alloy pulleys for my D3

The regular sprint 2 doesn't come with locked diffs (I believe the drift version does, can anyone confirm?) and is a perfectly good car to start with. It is very adjustable and has a great weight balance for learning to drift, far better than other racing on roads out there. Every 4wd on road can drift, just some drift betters than others and some as specifically designed to go sideways. You will want to lock the rear diff (and possibly the front, depending on what you want from that car). That and drift tyres will get you going. There are lots of online resources to learn how to drift and loads on this forum. The best advice I can give is work out what each control does individually and combined. Realising the effects of increased or decreased throttle and steering will give you an understanding of what your can needs. Watch some 1:1 drifting as well and get an idea of the flow and what the car should be doing. Lastly, practice on a figure of 8. It is all too easy to learn to drift one way, but not the other. A figure of 8 will give you lots of options. Something to be aware of, you will hit the car into stuff, you will damage the body. They can be replaced, skirting board and antique chair legs can't. Don't worry about marking the body, all the best drifters have scars.

Oh wow! I love that paint. Can't wait to see more!

The crawler king is just the wheelie king with the LWB conversion kit (#87633). It stretches it out and changes the steering geometry slightly. It also has different wheels and tyres.

Pretty cool colour. Especially being that it was in their range of colours. You gonna turn it into a drop top? I posted a gif of an electric one in the Woah thread. Hahaha. What about rims?

A second Sakura D3 kit

Yeah, I wasn't sure as to if he did make it or not. On their website you can play with the camera to look at it from different angles but you can never watch one long shot. From the way it is edited I would guess it maybe made the distance but didn't land and then they did another shot of it landing.

Thats a good price! I would go for maybe go for a 2000-esque EDM tuner look. Find a cool blue and use a silver backing after a few layers to make it like the old Z3's had. That paint was pretty much a staple of the BMW range during the late 90s and early 00s. Then throw some BBS style rims on it. It would look a bit like an America-Euro import from a tuning shop. You don't need to cover it in decals. Maybe a few small down the door on the hinge side. You could even black the bonnet to give it a race tuner vibe. You get the throw back of the paint and wheels to older BMW, Nice homage to classics. The other way it would look cool is in the neon orange and black roof the GTS came in (That is from the M5). The only way to get the car in that colour way was the GTS version (on the M5). Throw some black rims on it (any style really but some nice split tech multispokes) and you have a GTS replica with a black read wing. It will suit a few back manufacture decals and look like a high end Euro tuner. Maybe a special edition show/track day car by the M guys? The bright orange came from it being a track safety car and they wanted it to look like it has been pulled off the track and into your drive. You could even make it look like one of the Gatebil Breisladd cars (seeing as that event is fresh in my mind!) There was a hand built take on the Gatebil taxi track cars based on a modded E30 but it had a crazy over fender kit. I will have a look and see if I have any pictures of it. It was in the NY taxi yellow. I didn't see it go sideways (I don't think it even moved and the rear end wasn't finished) but it looked epic. Paint wise I have mostly only used Tamiya. I have used some the J Perkins stuff and that is an ok paint. You need to shake the can an insane amount and I found the head was prone to dripping (spray the body holding it vertically to avoid this) but it coated well with a few very fine coats backs with a lacquer between coats to make the paint appear deeper and then backed with white to make it pop then black to help protect the paint (black is nearly always thicker). It held out ok and only started to get damaged when there were some splits in the shell. Seen a few people use the fastrax stuff but it always seemed a bit thin to me.

Nice, sweet motor/ESC combo you got. Pretty much what I run. Very good, you won't be short of power!

I guess its a Mammoth then!

I initially thought it was the Mammoth but then the bumpers and shocks/shock towers are wrong. The Mammoth has twin shocks in each corner and the arms don't look like there is a mounting point for a second shock per arm. They share similar parts across the models so I reckon its the XST without the wing. If you can measure the chassis and compare it to spares that you can find or exploded diagrams you should be able to tell.

I have a SC-1252 and have just bought another. That is hands down my favourite servo. It's so fast and smooth. It is pretty much the same spec as the RC OMG top end stuff, but its HALF the price and gets the same results at 6v rather than 7.4v which is what most RX packs run at and what a it seems a large amount of BEC systems offer (that and 5v, I have been looking into BECs recently). if you want to run a 7.4v servo the RC OMG stuff is popular as it is very very fast at that speed and the titanium gears mean its super strong (but expensive). As far as budget servos the alturns are popular with people starting out and are good value for money. They aren't super quick but they do look very realistic when compared with the expensive fast stuff that rips the wheels around. EDIT: If you don't mind me asking, how much did you put out for the clone?

If you are on technical tracks I have seen people run as low as 8.5. Gear it right and you get a reasonable high end without oodles of torque for keeping the fast drifts smooth as you speed up and lots of low end grunt for breaking those wheel free at slow speeds. It is something I have been thinking about for a while. With the 10.5 I adjusted the power so at max throttle its only at 80% otherwise on 2S it is just ridiculous. I have an R ESC on the way for my second build simply because I can run a lower motor and get more power too it and as a result break the wheels free easier to get steeper angles as slow speed. A lot of the american guys seem to run around 8.5 as do the Japs so I think that might be the way to go as they seem to know what they are doing . There are a few english guys in the D1RC who run 13.5 which I do find quite crazy as at low speeds that motor has to work HARD! It causes it to pull a lot of power from the system, it gets hot and ultimately responds slower as it's sweet spot is in the clouds. I think a starting point is 2 in on the rear and then about 0.5 out on the front. More toe out will make its a more stable in the turns and increases oversteer. Just watch that when changing directly the wheel doesn't bite and rip the car out of the corner. That seems to be the balance between camber and toe.

It looks really nice. I am looking forward to seeing it on the new wheels.

Now I might sound stupid here but can you really just put the highest C rating in you want as long as the battery is over the rating of the ESC? I have always calculated the C to be at 30 or 40 and then added up the rest in MAH to get the value my ESC would need. So essentially along as the battery is over the ESC it doesn't matte how over it is? I was always afraid of blowing my electrics with an insane C rating....I feel like a right idiot. So I have a 70A ESC. I could run a 5900mah 60c battery pushing out 354A and it would still be fine, because the ESC only draws what I needs...HOW HAVE I NEVER NOTICED THIS? I feel like such and idiot.

Ok brilliant thank you. I still have to wait for my new soldering iron for my birthday off the SO. (At least I think that is what she is getting me) At the moment I only have a 7w touch up I use for PCBs Not too worry though, it gives me time to build the kit!