louder

Just throw on a telemetry kit. Mount the RPM sensor on the revolving bar and you will get a true wheel RPM read out. My concern would be tyre rubbing and the car popping off the rollers while it moves around, no car ever sits straight, at least none do that I build haha.

Yep that is one I am working on currently, there are a few chassis that aren't too common and CML don't offer in the UK. As a result these haven't been included in this first post simply because trying to dig up information, reviews, parts lists and upgrades can take some time. I spent about a 4 days going through to compile this list while off work (and in work haha) so more will come. Thanks for the heads up! If anyone has any of these chassis and wants to do a review/break down and overview of the chassis in depth (similar to what Bez did the TT-01). Write one out in a thread (please include pictures) and I will place a corresponding link to it in this guide so they can always be found and the information can be shared. I am currently working on a build/review of my second D3 chassis so once that is finished I will get it up here as well. If possible I would like to keep the reviews quite factual so they offer the most amount of information to a new drifter. I hope this is helpful!

Hmmm I think I am fairly sold on the SCX10, I have seen a few on YouTube that go 15/18 mph but still seem to crawl particularly well and I think it is more the scale look I am going for over the Wraith rock racer look even though I do believe the Wraith does look more capable as a kit. As regards the different SCX10 kit options, besides the body is there any other different between the Dingo, Wrangler G6 and Wrangler Unlimited?

I believe HeavyLeftThumb made some for Teshi and his Sprint 2. They looked really nice. While its not supporting the community there are quite a few people knocking them out on eBay if HLT is no longer making them. Thanks man, I appreciate it, I only hope it will be useful to some people. I am off work for a few days so figured I would do that. I have a document I am making currently about car set up as well as making an MSUK Drift set up sheet people can download.

I have never had a problem with Hobby King delivery times if I am honest. 2/3 weeks at most and that is coming from their global warehouse. I have never ordered anything from the EU or UK one but I can't imagine it taking longer than 2 weeks.

Ok well currently I am somewhat split between the SCX10 and the Wraith. I have seen some lovely D90 SCX10's which are just wonderful but then the Wraith looks like in its spare time when not driving over mountains it eats small children. I find I am leaning towards to the SCX10 just for the amount of parts support there is out there.

Aw man, I feel so sorry for you that it hasn't arrived. I really hope it is a good quality when you get it. I am sure it will be worth the wait, just look at that shell! It's going to look amazing sideways.

Best of luck to you Bez, it has been truly fascinating to read through this thread and follow it along. I hope everything gets sorted in time for you to run it. Can i just ask, what is the distance it runs over to reach its official speed? 1/4 mile?

After speaking to a few of the new guys and having a conversation with Cashew I thought I would share some information that I have complied and built up from both personal experience and around the web. I figured sharing is caring! I will try to keep this thread up to date as chassis are released into the wild and are tested, if you want anything adding to the list just get in touch so I can include it in the list below. I hope this can be a resource we can all use and add too. Here is a quick run down and overview of some current drift chassis: (Note: To navigate sections quickly use Ctrl+F or Cmd+F and type in the index number) Standard Chassis 1.0 Standard Chassis Intro 1.1 HPI E10 1.2 HPI Sprint 2 Drift 1.3 Tamiya TT -01/-01D/-01DE 1.4 Tamiya TT-02D 1.5 Tamiya TA-05 1.6 Maverick Strada DC Evo/Evo S 1.7 Yokomo Drift Package Designed for Drift Chassis 2.0 Designed for Drift Chassis Intro 2.1 Tamiya TA-05 VDF 2.2 HPI/HB TC-FD 2.3 MST MS-01D 2.4 MST XXX-D 2.5 MST FXX-D 2.6 MST FS-01D 2.7 Streetjam OTA-R31 2.8 Streetjam OTA-Zeon 2.9 Yokomo DIB/DRB family 2.10 3Racing Sakura D3 Sport CS Uncommon or Older Drift Chassis 3.0 Uncommon or Older Drift Chassis Intro 3.1 Tamiya TA-01 3.2 Tamiya TL-01 3.3 Tamiya XV-01 3.4 Tamiya TB-03D / 03VDS 3.5 Thunder Tiger Sparrowhawk DX 3.6 FTX Banzai 3.7 Team Associated TC5/6 3.8 Xray T2/3 3.9 HPI/HB cyclone 3.10 Older Yokomo chassis Other Information 4.0 Other Information Overview 4.1 Clones 4.2 General kit advice 4.3 Setup tips 1.0 Standard Chassis Intro Standard Chassis refers to platforms that are not built to be high end drift machines, from chassis that have become popular amongst drifters to entry level chassis that are based off regular grip racing designs, they fall in this section. These chassis are absolutely great for drifting, each one has its own attributes and are aimed at different audiences, be it a sunday slider or someone looking for something a little bit more serious. 1.1 HPI E10 The HPI E10 is an entry level drifter. The car come RTR and features a 27T brushed motor as standard. The chassis is a tightly packed tub style chassis like many entry level drifters. The car is 4WD and shaft driven. The car is aimed squarely at first time drifters, with little to no adjustability this car is about as bare bones as it gets. That said the standard setup is perfectly fine for learning to drift with just be aware there aren't that many upgrades around and you will out grow the car pretty fast if you are looking to do more than donuts in a car park. 1.2 HPI Sprint 2 Drift The HPI Sprint 2 Drift is a entry level chassis that can be turned into comp level drifter. This car comes RTR with a 15T brushed motor as standard. The chassis is identical to the standard Sprint 2 car, with the main differences being the body, wheels, tyres and the out of the box camber settings. The Sprint 2 gives you a lot for your money, a rear midship motor mount like some of high end drift chassis, a belt drive which can tuned for counter steer drift. The entire chassis can even be converted (with some creativity) to a front midship motor chassis like its big brother the TC-FD. There are quite a few upgrades for the chassis available as it has proven its self as a competitive drifting platform. This chassis is a great place to start and much better value for money than the HPI E10 chassis. 1.3 Tamiya TT -01/-01D/-01DE The Tamiya TT-01 chassis is one of the most prolific Tamiya chassis around. A popular club racer, a great chassis to work on and with loads of upgrades it has become a much loved entry chassis into the world of drifting. The TT-01 is my no means built to drift, with a lack of adjustability, shaft drive and tub chassis with a lack of layout options means it doesn't strike people as a drifting platform but its desirability is in its cheap entry level price, Tamiya build quality, reliability and the massive amount of upgrades. The popularity of the TT-01 has spawned the -01D and the -01DE. These are standard TT-01 chassis but with a few upgrades such as drift tyres, upgraded diffs and adjustable camber and steering linkages. The TT-01 comes in both RTR and kit forms. While some people view the TT-01 chassis range as a money pit for drifting it can prove to be a great entry level drifter and with some money and carefully selected upgrades and tuning the chassis can grow with you to become a reasonable mid level drift chassis. If you are looking to save money used TT-01's can be found quite cheaply. For more information on TT-01 drifting take a look at Bez

I would also recommend putting a one way in the front, makes a big difference, especially when you are trying to get technical and adjust your angle mid corner.

Well cashew, the VGJr version comes with two sets of tyres, drift and rubber so you can try both types of driving. The car is set up kind of the middle of both so would need a little bit more tweaking out of the box over the Sprint 2 drift. All you have to remember is the first body you own WILL get damaged while you are learning, get a shell you like, but not one you love, otherwise you need to buy a second one to learn with!

Awesome. I will take a look. I do like the look of the RC4WD SubZero Truck (link). It looks a little less unwieldy than the Wraith (it seems a little tall in the pictures?) but just not sure how well it would work at speed. I just watched a video of the Yeti, seems to drive an awful lot like a stadium truck from the videos.

Summit is a bit big really, it actually scales out larger than my E-Maxx which isn't really what I am looking for, I was tempted to change my mini e-revo over the the mini summit but seeing as it hasn't got optional diff lock it seems pointless. Yeti looks nice, not sure if i like the battery position or the way the rear suspension mounts though, seems to be a lot of plastic for the price. If they did a kit then maybe. Wraith is nice, got a scale look to it, certainly going on the list to look into further. As for the AX10 and SCX10. I thought they were both crawlers really? I think I may avoid another Traxxas, while the telluride looks fun, so far most Traxxas trucks I have driven recently feel very similar IMO.

Hey, I am looking to add something new to the collection. I am looking for a scaler/crawler crossover. Something that can go a reasonable speed, looks relatively scale but can still climb over obstacles in a half decent manner. It may get jumped off a few curbs but nothing major. I guess I am looking for some sort of trail truck? Most of the scalers I have seen are often rather slow and due to them looking perfectly scale tend to suffer from a lack of ability. Is there a middle ground? Looking for around a 1/10 scale. Any ideas?

I have the choice of 3 places. On my desk, generally mini scale models, can happily fit a 1/10 but if I am tearing it down I can get short on space fast. If it's a bit bigger I tend to do it an a large table I have in another that is mostly where I meet with people for work and what not, as well as play 40K on it so its rather large. If it flies I have to work on it in the loft. There is a massive amount of space up there it's just a bit of a pain taking models up and down, plus it can get cold in the winter. It is a good place to hide cars though, the SO doesn't really know how many I have.

Nice man, I am not actually a mustang fan but those fat flared arches, mmmm love me some curves.

Fingers crossed it turns up soon man, seems a shame to have that lovely body and wheels sat there with nothing to dress!

Really love that blue defender and the SCX10. Great job man, you should be proud.

Welcome to addiction!

Hey, welcome. Obviously you need to change the wheels and tyres. Teshi and Peter have you covered on the servo and diff so I will take the wheels and tyres! A good starting point would be HPI 'T' Drift tyres. Theses are used by loads of people and are great standard tyre to learn on as most people defer to these tyres when all else fails! It might be worth seeing if you can get some adjustable links for the car. Camber and toes really effect the way car handles and can completely change the way a car breaks loose, so that is worth looking into and spending a little bit of money on. Suspension wise, you want the rear hard and the front soft/medium, these are good starting points and it gives you some play room. lastly, a sweeping brush! If you are outside on tarmac, give that floor a sweep. Makes all the difference while learning, makes your tyres last longer and is less wear and tear on your car, tiny stones will turn your car while sliding and can help it find traction when you least need it. Optional: The biggest rear spoiler you can find. This is important because...because sideways.

Warm water will allow you to remove the tyres off the wheels, throw them in for 5/10 mins, should pop off fairly easily. A hair dryer is a good none water alternative, just keep it moving and be aware it is a noisy alternative! You don't have to run O rings unless you find the tyres are moving, The problem is some tyres don't ever take them very well and it can cause bumps/rises in the tyre which effects the wear. It also depends on what surface you are on, you will never throw a tyre on carpet, on tarmac, if it's not swept you can nudge the alignment slightly which will change the wear pattern and ultimately change the behaviour of the car. Basic answer, is the tyre moving? If not, no. Does the tyre have a small indent for an o ring? Is not, probably not and refer to the first answer. I am so excited for you chassis man, I can't wait to see what it is like!

Scars make the bodies look cool! All the D1 guys are constantly tearing off bumpers as they get a little too close to a wall. You had some really awesome drifts there, even a few that were almost rear entries on the back corner! Looking awesome man, shell looks great. Soul always makes me laugh a little when I see everyone in socks, I understand why but it never fails to make me smile. It's like being at someones house haha.

let us know what they are like when they turn up

Yeah, my current thinking is some of the magnets but attached to one of those adjustable bars at the back and front. That way I can easily adjust for height etc.

Congrats man