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Zombi's Axial Yeti


Zombi

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Here are the bits I ordered from Asiatees the other day. I also got me a spare set of unis to take out on the trail with me just in case disaster strikes.  For 11 quid, why not.

Unis

http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=50396&brand=Axial&model=EXO

Hub adaptors (thought I'd give them a go)

http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=101914&brand=Axial&model=Yeti

Diff locker

http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=104013&brand=Axial&model=Yeti

Diff case (for if i got back to using the diff)

http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=102101&brand=Axial&model=Yeti

Servo mounts

http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=101928&brand=Axial&model=Yeti

Edited by Zombi
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Here are the bits I ordered from Asiatees the other day. I also got me a spare set of unis to take out on the trail with me just in case disaster strikes. For 11 quid, why not.

Unis

http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=50396&brand=Axial&model=EXO

Hub adaptors (thought I'd give them a go)

http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=101914&brand=Axial&model=Yeti

Diff locker

http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=104013&brand=Axial&model=Yeti

Diff case (for if i got back to using the diff)

http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=102101&brand=Axial&model=Yeti

Servo mounts

http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=101928&brand=Axial&model=Yeti

Nice list, those unis look thicker than the axial ones or am i missing something?
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Here's another simple mod I did recently after seeing another guy that did it, one that folks with different sized batteries might be interested in.  

 

I myself have 6x 5000mah batteries which are 3 different sizes in total. When out on the trail in cold, wet & muddy conditions, it's a total pain in the behind to have to unscrew the brace which holds the battery in place. It's fiddly, you're often crouched over it, I find I have to remove the body entirely, and it takes too much time to do.

 

So I removed the brace, and tried a few different strap lengths to see if any would work. What I found was that a 200mm strap with 50mm of that being the hook part worked best.  Be mindful that if you have batteries which are significantly shorter than the tray, you'll need to make sure they don't slide from side to side and unbalance your handling at speed.

 

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Edited by Zombi
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So we did the 100 Gate Challenge today, set up by some guys in Nuneaton, Warwiskshire. Click here to see some pics from the day.  They did a really good job of it and have some nice terrain on their doorstep.

 

Afterwards a few of us went to another nearby site where the above video was taken. The Yeti did really well, handling some seriously tough terrain that some of the other trucks struggled with at times. I'm so pleased with this thing, and it'll be even better when I lock the front diff next week.

 

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Edited by Zombi
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After my recent link breakages, both Jay and Banners mucked in to think up some alternatives to ensure I keep running. I've not seen the goodies that Jay's made for me as yet, but here's the prototype that Banners has made for me just today.

 

The design is 6.3mm stainless steel with a thread drilled into the rods and a stud screwed into it. This will allow me to ditch the Jato rod ends (which I believe is the main cause for the snapping so far) and use the shorter rod ends.

 

Rather than snapping, this is more likely to bend, and if it does will be much easier to replace with a new stud whilst out on the trail.

 

Superb work Banners, can't wait to get my hands on them!

 

Edited by Zombi
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On this note, I had it confirmed by VP earlier that the Jato rod ends should only be used on one end of the link, the other end should be the Traxxas ones that come with it. Dan from VP said it wouldn't be the cause, but I half wonder if using Jato on all sides is why I snapped the links...

 

I've updated the section of this thread that has the Currie stuff in it.

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Time for the Axial front locker to go in!  Opening the front diff - always a chore, never a pleasure  :xd:  

 

So the 500k wt oil in the diff box lasted well considering all the underwater action the Alpha Gorilla sees. It was mucky and a bit more runny than when it went in, so it shows that if you run your Yeti as hard as I tend to then regular maintenance in the front diff is required.

 

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Got all the gubbins out and gave it a good cleaning.

 

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Before I move onto the locker itself, I also ordered me a GPM ally diff box for if/when I got back to using the differential again. It's a nicely made piece and fit with the gears very well.

 

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The locker itself went on really easily. I made sure to use loctite liberally, as loose screws in the diff housing is the last place you'll want them!

 

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Last on were the output cups and the double-shielded bearings (from rcbearings.co.uk).

 

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I'm looking forward to testing this properly on Sunday and giving the Wraith boys some serious crawling competition!

Edited by Zombi
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So I took it out in the garden for a quick spin, and on high grip surfaces the front of it hops whilst turning and turning circle is much reduced (if you believe it could get any worse lol).  Crawling ability is awesome though now that both front wheels get full power to them.

 

I have a step in my garden with a lip on it, and previously it couldn't get over it because as soon as one wheel made contact it'd just stop and let the other spin. Now though, the contacting wheel just edges it's way up and over  :thumbsup:

 

I'm going to need to be careful though, I can absolutely see a bent axle coming way my if im reckless...

 

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Edited by Zombi
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Back to the whole breaking of links thing - today I picked up my new set of stainless steel links from Banners!  Hopefully I can now say goodbye to snapped hardware as these are more likely to bend. And if they do, I can easily replace the stud screw with some 25mm grub screws I got from eBay

 

If you're after any links like these for any of your RCs, then send him a message on here.

 

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Fitted

 

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Edited by Zombi
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