J.A.Son Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Mgozzz, that 5mm shaft should sort out the bent/broken shaft issues for sure! I've looked into the idea of fitting a 5mm CC 3800 rotor into the vector can- however, there are conflicting opinions as to if is doable or not. There was a guy from Castle who said it was?! Having both you could prob give the definitive answer.. If u don't mind me asking, how much did the 3800 cost? PS can't wait to see those TBG bodies finished and mounted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 As per this: http://m.ebay.com/itm/191128184302?nav=SEARCH Shaft Length is the only question imo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 (edited) Mgozzz, that 5mm shaft should sort out the bent/broken shaft issues for sure! I've looked into the idea of fitting a 5mm CC 3800 rotor into the vector can- however, there are conflicting opinions as to if is doable or not. There was a guy from Castle who said it was?! Having both you could prob give the definitive answer.. If u don't mind me asking, how much did the 3800 cost? PS can't wait to see those TBG bodies finished and mounted! I actually had dropped a 3800 5mm rotor in the stock 4000kv can and ran it before I put the stock rotor back in and sent it to HPI to be replaced. It fits in fine for the most part. The magnets line up with the coil pads perfectly and everything. The only issue is the shaft on the back of the rotor is shorter and it doesn't insert into the bearing on the rear cover all the way. It only inserts in the about 1/8th of an inch. You have to use the 4000kv rotor spacers for this to work. I had an idea of pulling the bearing on the back cover out enough to use the 3800kv spacer. That way it would fully engage the rear bearing. I wasn't able to take measurements to be sure if it would work though. I can check further when I get my replacement Vektor motor in. Mike Edited April 19, 2014 by Mgozzz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJA Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 (edited) Prob debris in the esc fan. Undo hex head screws holding fan to esc and clean/vac. U could just try vaccuming with fan inplace 1st to save removing fan, but tbh its easy enough to remove anyhow.. Thx but how can i open the esc, i can't see any screws? Edited April 19, 2014 by PJA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 If it's like the other castle escs, you'll need to remove the label from the case and press something into the tabs to split the case. Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road2ruin Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Right, so I've installed the full Integy suspension kit plus the motor mount.....went out to have a thrash round and.....nothing! The transmitter has just died! Changed the batteries for a brand new set just in case but it's totally dead, no read light or anything. Does anyone have an idea of what has happened or do I just put it down to bad timing and the thing is shagged? Assuming it's died a death are there any recommendations or do you just go with an HPI replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Have you tried rebinding it?Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road2ruin Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 The red light on the transmitter doesn't come on so I don't think it's a binding issue sadly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 PJA; I got it wrong in my first post about this, as I didn't have to remove mine (don't actually know if you can easily remove fan from esc anyhow- glued?) A poke around with a stiff brush and a decent vacuum should do it. Does the fan appear to be running at full speed and is the noise a constant sound: ie its not a pulsing sound? Only I do have an issue with mine when its not been used for a day or longer where the fan initially makes a pulsing whine and runs slowly. It sounds like the fan motor is sh@aged imo! If I leave it a few mins or re-start it, it runs at full speed and virtually silent- how it should. I've contacted HPI and they've requested I return the esc and motor for 'evaluation' but given its a manageable issue and more importantly how long HPI take to do anything these days I've not done anything about it yet. I will though before warranty expires.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 The red light on the transmitter doesn't come on so I don't think it's a binding issue sadly Have you changed anything on the electronics side? Presumably you've tried rebinding tx/rx and dbl checked all connections? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road2ruin Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 No changes on the electronic side. I must admit I haven't tried rebinding as I can't see that the transmitter has power. Stupid question but wouldn't the red light on the transmitter come on even if it wasn't now bound to the receiver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrchippy Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Have you made sure all the wires to the rc are in the right way round and in the correct port as I had no problems with mine after I put the full integy kit on? Just watch out ur front wheels don't lock up as one of mine did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJA Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Problem with the ESC solved thanks. I want to replace the stock HPI servo. Which servo do you recomment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Savox SC-1258TG. Works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 I'm running the Savox SC-1268SG servo. It kicks some butts compared to the stock servo. I got it for $35 shipped off of Rctech.net. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road2ruin Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Have spoken to HPI this morning and it is a dead transmitter! Quite annoying as I've had very few issues with the car itself which has taken a lot of punishment! The transmitter on the other hand has been well looked after and hasn't been damaged but has given up the ghost. The good news is that I have found them on eBay for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Surprise! My special order came in today. I'm excited! Now as long as I can get some free time tonight to get them installed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrchippy Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 (edited) Need to get myself a savox servo stock is poo with my setup Have got them installed on my flux just need to start ordering parts for the nitro one now Edited April 24, 2014 by Mrchippy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJA Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Thx. I bought a used Savox SC 1257 TG. Can it handle 3S ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Thx. I bought a used Savox SC 1257 TG. Can it handle 3S ?? The bec on the vapor pro is adjustable but out of the box it is set to 6v (or 5.5?) do it should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunnie Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Ive just got myself a wr8 flux. Are there any "must do" mods that I should do right away? I will be using both 2s and 3s so any info on gearing would be much appreciated. 1st thing Im going to be doing is swapping out the esc for a wp sc8 esc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Ive just got myself a wr8 flux. Are there any "must do" mods that I should do right away? I will be using both 2s and 3s so any info on gearing would be much appreciated. 1st thing Im going to be doing is swapping out the esc for a wp sc8 esc Replace the bearings with rubber sealed ones first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 Ive just got myself a wr8 flux. Are there any "must do" mods that I should do right away? I will be using both 2s and 3s so any info on gearing would be much appreciated. 1st thing Im going to be doing is swapping out the esc for a wp sc8 esc Replace the stock servo saver and/or the servo, start a charity drive of some sort for replacement tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunnie Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 Leo - ive got bearings that will fit the hub already. Anything else will need to be ordered. Ill do the swap once I give it a full strip down. Mgozzz - ive got a spare savox 1256 that ill be putting in. As for tyres will I really be going through them that quick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrchippy Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 Depends on what ground your running it on mate and I'd go with the upgraded diff and proline shocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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