Gamb!t Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Hiya guys... so the story goes. i recently got into nitro, bought a car off ebay, was goosed and thanks to the help of you guys and my LHS - its now running sweet as - so much so im shredding through tires like theres no tomorrow. my mate saw i got one, and thought he'd give it a go.... was talkin about it in his works and was offered a colleagues RC for £20. - so he thought why not.... this is what he's bought... Car looks alright - theres a few rusty parts and he hasnt had it running yet... so we figure the car must have been left in a shed/garage to rott for a while after previous bust it..... we know its a thunder tiger... (as it says so on the exhaust) but could anyone give us a clue to the model and how old it is?? ok... first issue... (my mates not all that mechanically minded) and has had the car for a week or so without mentioning it to me... he's been trying to get the thing working unsucessfully and the car has now landed on my lap to try and tinker with! (its completely different to mine as its belt driven an mines not - but i feel confident i can retify the problems and help him get it working) The remote that came with the car looks ancient! like somthing out of a back to the future movie... when switching everything on with fresh batterys nothing happens - no wheel twitch, no movement etc etc... upon checking the remote over - there is a whole at the bottom of it is this where the crystal goes? i figured i'd try hooking up my reciever in my car to his servos - this had sucess!! so im guessing he needs a new Remote and Reciever (is that what u guys refer to as RX Tx?) or could we source some crystals? i think i'll be upgrade mine soon anyway so prob just give him my old one... Other than the remote issue... he was trying to start it and has yanked his pullstart all the way out, and now its stuck out... so i've took off the pullstart in an attempt to fix it. turns out the central spring is slipping out of its holder when u pull it... ive placed it back in, best i can, as its rather fiddelly and its late so quickly lost patience with it.. i have got it kind of back into its posistion, but when u pull the cord, it slips free again. and doesnt return inside the housing. my question is, is there and easy fix... i was considering just aralditing (gluing) the thing down as a temp fix or maybe wedging a screw head to keep the spring tight against the sides... would this work, or are there anyother hints tips people could offer?? if it goes again i'll just telling him to buy a new one - however- as his missus has just gave birth to his 2nd sprog, an i doubt he'll be able to start throwing much money at this car... (she moaned at him buying one in the first place) thanks for reading - any help/comments/suggestions - more than welcome! (sorry about the essay ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamb!t Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 image 5 + 8 are actually videos - me in testing phases Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R46 Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) its a thunder tiger ts4n sport as need radio best get a 2.4 ghz no need to worry about crystal's again http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4cf8618651 if budget tight can grab a matching pair xtals an see if current rx/tx working http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-R-C-Remote-Control-27-MHZ-27-195-AM-Crystal-TX-RX-/250789847974?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3a643d63a6 add a failsafe for safety http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3caf29d668 best to replace pullstart, but If have time, patience & don't mind losing some skin from finger tips winding the spring got save it but never 100% again tho.. http://www.ebay.co.u...ba#ht_756wt_814 Edited September 23, 2011 by R46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headamage Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 ok, if i was in charge of this i would strip the whole thing down and take all the metallic parts and give them a bath in petroleum or wd40 for a day to loosen up the rust. Then i would rub them with wire sponge to remove all rust. The drive shafts should be salvageable from this process and so should most large metallic parts. i doubt the screws and turnbuckles will still be alive though so maybe a few bags of screws and turnbuckles are in order. All the plastic parts would go in a warm bath of soap water. I would definitely get a new pullstart. I wouldn't trust it after all these years. You can find some vids on youtube for pullstart repairs but i have no experience with them. Also the engine probably needs a total strip down for visual inspection inside. Nitro sucks up water and if no oil was used after the last run it may look bad inside. Seems you already have a plan for Rx and Tx so no need to fix anything there. Just throw away the old stuff and give him your old gear when you upgrade. And yes, that hole at the bottom of the Tx is for the crystal. And yes you can get crystals from modelsport. Shocks are looking good apart form the shaft but the petroleum or wd40 bath should sort that out. Are those ball or gear diffs? I can't tell from the photos. Either way they need to be stripped down and inspected for rust and damage. You will need diff silicone if they are limited slip geared diffs. You should also check the bearings. If they are all rusty outside then don't bother, just bin them. If they are looking good outside then take them apart and inspect them inside. Clean them and lubricate them and they should be fine. Just be patient with it. It will take time to get it 100% again but it seems possible and it shouldn't cost too much either unless you are unlucky and the engine is dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R46 Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) gear diffs use good base point with oil 10k at front 3k at rear Edited September 23, 2011 by R46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headamage Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) gear diffs use good base point with oil 10k at front 3k at rear you got me curious now. the lightest i have in my touring cars is 80k front and 60k rear as per Xray recommendation for NT1. They are made for rubber tyres though and they are probably heavier but isn't 10k and 3k too light for touring cars? I have only seen those used in off roads. Edited September 23, 2011 by headamage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingscott Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Yerp it's a ts4N You can pick them up for next to nothing, is it worth the messing about with this model, or could your mate get another in better condition and you could use this one for spares? http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?rt=nc&Type=Vehicles&_nkw=thunder%20tiger%20ts4n&_dmpt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&_fln=1&_ssov=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m282 Its another option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R46 Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 you got me curious now. the lightest i have in my touring cars is 80k front and 60k rear as per Xray recommendation for NT1. They are made for rubber tyres though and they are probably heavier but isn't 10k and 3k too light for touring cars? I have only seen those used in off roads. Stock engine won't over push front with 10k can go heavier if desire to. I use 100k front and 20k rear on my ts4n pro with rb x12, my other tourers mtx2 same weight oils useing, mtx3 has oneway up front so rear has 35k, ntc3 balldiff. thicker oil up front helps with turn an traction if have powerfull engine. My mates nt1 has oneway on front 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 If I remember right, I ended up with 60K front and 10K rear on the one I had, and it was great. Yes...it's seen better days, but parts for these are cheap and easy to get secondhand off E-Bay. There is no reason why this can't be got up to a good running order. Shocks would probably want replacing along with any rusty hingepins....but all this stuff is cheap enough..and when the car only cost £20....go for it! You could buy a good one for £60-£80 and pick up the odd bargain if you are lucky for around £50 If it was me, I would be stripping this to bare bones and building it up again with replacement parts where needed, and a damn good clean and refinish elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruhel Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Why not just use this was a spare and for knowledge gathering. It will take alot of work to get back to running order so if he bought one in the mean time he could slowly rebuild this one and have added bonus of spare parts (if any are salvageable). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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