mephisto

Hi guys, I'm building a 1/10th Xray T4 and need some suggestions on 13.5T motors. I've been looking at Hobbywing Xerun V10 and SkyRC Ares, but I'm a bit new to RC so I'm finding a bit difficult to make sure the motor is BRCA compliant but also is indeed a good motor without costing a shed load of money. Some of they claim 2700kv, some otehr 3000kv, some 190W output power, some others 200, 210 and 220W. Are these number any relevant? Thanks!

It is an alternative, but I like the fact that is product of my work than someone else

hmm, okay that definitely require more artistic skills than I expected. As it is my first shell, perhaps I'll just paint over the body this time and next time I get a fluid pan, it feels like a lot of work just to get the lines indeed. Maybe one step at time for me

I tried a permanent marker to test, but it is not solid. very transparent black...

Would something like this would do in your opinion? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hellfire-Drawing-Ultra-Fine-Line-Pen-005-01-02-03-04-05-08-Art-Waterproof-Black-/131607733317?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DERWENT-GRAPHIK-FINE-LINE-MAKER-ARTIST-PAINTERS-PERMANENT-MARKER-PAINT-LINER-PEN-/361180099313?var=&hash=item541802f2f1:m:ml9UpB__4cdBwmtFd9X16TQ Not sure what you meant by water down the black, sorry I'm a bit ignorant in this aspect

I got the protoform bodyshell like in the picture, it comes with the window mask stickers but that is it, no surroundings of anything to ting the windows. I've found the tamiya smoke paint, that is really cool, thanks! I'm just a bit in doubts how to paint as I believe if I paint the body in red first, the cut the window stickers to expose teh area I want to paint in black, the paint will also end up on top of the red paint and darken it up a lot. What do you think?

yeah that is true, but with tape I think it would always end up being too wide comparing to a pen, so I'll try it this time. By the way, do you guys tint windows? Is there a good way of doing it? Perhaps some sort of transparent stickers with smoked finish?

so sharpie it is, thanks!

Sure? with a permanent marker?

Hi guys, I'm not sure how can I draw door lines and other bits inside the shell before painting it, in a way it doesn't wash out when I apply paint on top. I've got the same bodyshell and want to make it look similar to this, but I've not idea what is best to use. Can anyone assist me please? thanks!

a bit difficult to find stuff on their website that does the trick, thanks for that!

example of a foam tyre which give me problems:

Hi guys, I have a HPI Sprint 2 Flux and I'm trying to use foam tyres as it is quite cold now and rubber simply can't do it. It seems I'm running on soap. The problem with the foam tyre available on the shops, all of them have no room inside the wheel for the suspension arm to protrude in, so the wheel locks on the suspension arm. One way around would be to add some washers, but then my hex nut which is 5mm thich will become 2mm for example at the rear and I think this will not be enough to hold the wheel in place. I was trying to look for 12mm hex nut with 7 or 8mm thickness but no luck. Do you guys know if they exist? Thanks!

Yeah, I'm planning to buy a set of pinions so I can play with them, thanks for pointing that out I was reading about servos including the model you mentioned, thanks. It seems I could be better off with a digital servo, so I was checking options for around £40-50 and I was thinking about these models: http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SC1258TG_Digital_Servo_p/savsc1258tg.htm or http://hitecrcd.com/products/servos/ultra-premium-high-resolution-digital-servos/hs-8330sh-high-voltage-high-responsive-high-speed-steel-gear-servo/product or http://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-full-size-racing-digital-servo-hs-tg-ultra-high-speed-/rc-car-products/359790 It seems I can easily replace my analog with a digital one, right? No need for a new receiver? I use a RF-11 http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/105407 Thanks!

Hi guys, My sprint 2 is always giving me headaches with mechanical parts failing, the rear belt lost all teeth a couple of times already, so last time I added a mod with a belt tensioner, but eventually the tensioner snapped off and another belt was eaten, plus the play with steering, and the fact I can't easily use foam tyre as the suspension arms protrude beyond the wheel hub so it locks the wheel. Every time I need to disassemble something on the HPI it is a nightmare as I need to disassemble half of the car to replace the belt for example. My idea is to jump to a proper 1/10 chassis so I was told the XRAY T4 is a good base, and I'm planning on the beginning to use all electronics from the HPI and then slowly I replace bits as necessary for a 13.5T blinky category to range in south London. Has anyone god some advice about what I can do? These are the electronics from the HPI http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/106766 http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/106627 http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/104105 and this is the pinion http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/6923 Thanks!