mephisto

Hi guys, I'm building a 1/10th Xray T4 and need some suggestions on 13.5T motors. I've been looking at Hobbywing Xerun V10 and SkyRC Ares, but I'm a bit new to RC so I'm finding a bit difficult to make sure the motor is BRCA compliant but also is indeed a good motor without costing a shed load of money. Some of they claim 2700kv, some otehr 3000kv, some 190W output power, some others 200, 210 and 220W. Are these number any relevant? Thanks!

It is an alternative, but I like the fact that is product of my work than someone else

hmm, okay that definitely require more artistic skills than I expected. As it is my first shell, perhaps I'll just paint over the body this time and next time I get a fluid pan, it feels like a lot of work just to get the lines indeed. Maybe one step at time for me

I tried a permanent marker to test, but it is not solid. very transparent black...

Would something like this would do in your opinion? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hellfire-Drawing-Ultra-Fine-Line-Pen-005-01-02-03-04-05-08-Art-Waterproof-Black-/131607733317?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DERWENT-GRAPHIK-FINE-LINE-MAKER-ARTIST-PAINTERS-PERMANENT-MARKER-PAINT-LINER-PEN-/361180099313?var=&hash=item541802f2f1:m:ml9UpB__4cdBwmtFd9X16TQ Not sure what you meant by water down the black, sorry I'm a bit ignorant in this aspect

I got the protoform bodyshell like in the picture, it comes with the window mask stickers but that is it, no surroundings of anything to ting the windows. I've found the tamiya smoke paint, that is really cool, thanks! I'm just a bit in doubts how to paint as I believe if I paint the body in red first, the cut the window stickers to expose teh area I want to paint in black, the paint will also end up on top of the red paint and darken it up a lot. What do you think?

yeah that is true, but with tape I think it would always end up being too wide comparing to a pen, so I'll try it this time. By the way, do you guys tint windows? Is there a good way of doing it? Perhaps some sort of transparent stickers with smoked finish?

so sharpie it is, thanks!

Sure? with a permanent marker?

Hi guys, I'm not sure how can I draw door lines and other bits inside the shell before painting it, in a way it doesn't wash out when I apply paint on top. I've got the same bodyshell and want to make it look similar to this, but I've not idea what is best to use. Can anyone assist me please? thanks!

a bit difficult to find stuff on their website that does the trick, thanks for that!

example of a foam tyre which give me problems:

Hi guys, I have a HPI Sprint 2 Flux and I'm trying to use foam tyres as it is quite cold now and rubber simply can't do it. It seems I'm running on soap. The problem with the foam tyre available on the shops, all of them have no room inside the wheel for the suspension arm to protrude in, so the wheel locks on the suspension arm. One way around would be to add some washers, but then my hex nut which is 5mm thich will become 2mm for example at the rear and I think this will not be enough to hold the wheel in place. I was trying to look for 12mm hex nut with 7 or 8mm thickness but no luck. Do you guys know if they exist? Thanks!

Yeah, I'm planning to buy a set of pinions so I can play with them, thanks for pointing that out I was reading about servos including the model you mentioned, thanks. It seems I could be better off with a digital servo, so I was checking options for around £40-50 and I was thinking about these models: http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SC1258TG_Digital_Servo_p/savsc1258tg.htm or http://hitecrcd.com/products/servos/ultra-premium-high-resolution-digital-servos/hs-8330sh-high-voltage-high-responsive-high-speed-steel-gear-servo/product or http://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-full-size-racing-digital-servo-hs-tg-ultra-high-speed-/rc-car-products/359790 It seems I can easily replace my analog with a digital one, right? No need for a new receiver? I use a RF-11 http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/105407 Thanks!

Hi guys, My sprint 2 is always giving me headaches with mechanical parts failing, the rear belt lost all teeth a couple of times already, so last time I added a mod with a belt tensioner, but eventually the tensioner snapped off and another belt was eaten, plus the play with steering, and the fact I can't easily use foam tyre as the suspension arms protrude beyond the wheel hub so it locks the wheel. Every time I need to disassemble something on the HPI it is a nightmare as I need to disassemble half of the car to replace the belt for example. My idea is to jump to a proper 1/10 chassis so I was told the XRAY T4 is a good base, and I'm planning on the beginning to use all electronics from the HPI and then slowly I replace bits as necessary for a 13.5T blinky category to range in south London. Has anyone god some advice about what I can do? These are the electronics from the HPI http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/106766 http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/106627 http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/104105 and this is the pinion http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/6923 Thanks!

Hey guys, I've got a HPI sprint 2 flux and I just replaced the rear GEAR DIFF SHAFT as it was badly damaged after use as you can see in the image attached. Today I went to the track and races for 30 minutes, then I had a look at the new gear diff shafts and they show slightly the same type of wear. I was expecting it to happen eventually but it seems that this happen very quick. Is this normal? I was thinking about getting a competition chassis like Xray T4, would a higher level car like that suffer from the same problem? Perhaps this type of mechanical part needs to replaced more often than I expect and I just don't know? Thanks!

The specs are good, besides you, has anyone else used this brand? Any feedback?

I'll do that, thanks for the tip. I decided to take another nanotech as it seems it takes longer to drop voltage under load Where do you get these brands from? 7.6v but I believe I never balanced it

The battery has got some scratches and dents from racing, I don't know how these cells are protected, but pressing a bit with my fingers I can feel it a bit soft

Thanks for that, just signed up I want to start racing asap

Actually the one that failed me is the nanotech

Hi guys, I'm planning to join a RC club in south London and they said on the webpage I need BRCA insurance. I went to BRCA website but I could not find anything about insurance, is it part of the normal membership? I'm a bit confused. Is this so if I'm racing on the track and hit someone both sides are covered? Sorry about the lame questions, but I used just to RC around my flat so now I'm planning to get it more serious

I heard many good things about them that is the reason I bought two, I'm sure I stored at 7.6 volts, so this should be fine, plus it didn't overheat or anything. Just took out of the car, put to 7.6 volts and stored. It is just a shame they don't come with deans connector for my HPI sprint 2 They are a bit pricey in comparison I'm tempted to try again and perhaps get a 4mm to deans. I tried one before but it was too long, now I found some very short http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No-Wires-Connector-4MM-Male-to-Female-T-Plug-Adapter-Deans-Style-E-/251671210087?hash=item3a98c5e867:g:qJYAAOSwq7JT3EgV Thanks, that works better for me Strangely this model is not available anywhere else, I wonder if it was modified by hand or a fake battery? Not sure if they fake Turnigy batteries anyway, but I'm just wondering Thanks you all for recommendations, much appreciated!

Hey guys, My Turnigy 2S battery pack got stuffed after a month in storage, it got expanded so I believe some cells are damaged and my charger can't read voltage on it, straight to recycling. Anyway, I need some recommendation of brands that have deans plug from factory as all Turnigy have those rounded plugs in place and I need to cut and solder deans plug in place, a bit of a hassle. There are so many brands out there which makes it difficult to know what is actually good or not. I have a HPI Sprint 2 Flux, so the easier way would be to get one of those HPI Plazma batteries, but they are quite pricey, £40+. The Turnigy was £14 for a 5000MAH 25-50C, and they are fairly good, I get 20-30 minutes play with each pack. Is there something good out there at similar price range as Turnigy with deans connector from factory? I was looking at HobbyKing but no luck, it seems that 2S they are selling 95% Turnigy brand. Any information would be very helpful! thanks!

would I use shims on those balls there a cup clicks on top?