Hippopotosaurus

so whilst looking for upgrades that could help me out on this found this great website: http://www.asiatees.com with loads of nice upgrades for the exo and not too bad a p&p cost, what I was really interested in though was this: http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=56397&brand=Axial&model=EXO , an all aluminium front/rear bulkhead- do you guys think this coupled with the gcm diff bodies and of course a new crown gear will solve the problem- all aluminium reducing the play? I'm also looking at some aluminium chassis supports (front and rear) too, which would make the whole setup even more rigid Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

And ghazghul- can you put a link to those hd gears, I can't seem to find them :/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hebby, you say you would buy the rtr version over the kit, presumably because they don't have the problem with the diff, but if this is the case then surely you could just buy the diff housing that is advertised as spares for the rtr and replace the ones that came with the kit? Otherwise I can't see why the kit version would have this problem and the rtr version doesn't? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Funny how you find these things out having spent

I bought the kit version of the axial exo terra just over a year ago and after I'd built it, it all seemed to be running fine. However, recently, upon braking there was a horrible grinding noise- thanks to a different thread I realised it must be one of the diffs and sure enough, upon taking the front end apart I found a load of metal shavings in the front diff housing which had come from the crown gear- although it won't show up in a photo very well, one side of each of the teeth had been worn down to an angle that must have meant the pinion and crown gears slipped past each other when put under stress, like braking, creating the grinding noise. Obviously I'm going to need a new crown gear (the pinion seems fine when compared to the identical rear diff pinion, although they come together anyway...). However, when browsing modelsports website for a replacement I noticed you can get an upgraded crown/pinion but I can't see the difference (other than gear ratios) between that and the standard crown/pinion as both are heavy duty and cost around the same? Here are the links: Standard- http://www.modelsport.co.uk/axial-heavy-duty-bevel-gear-set-36t-14t/rc-car-products/370997 Upgrade- http://www.modelsport.co.uk/axial-scorpian-heavy-duty-bevel-gear-38t/rc-car-products/30067 So I was wondering which one would be best for me to get to prevent this happening again and also what gear ratio would get the best speed out of my kit (I'm running a castle sidewinder combo with 3800kv motor on 2s) although if I get the upgrade there is only 1 ratio to choose from Also does anyone have any other tips on how to stop this happening in the future- the only other thing I can think of is to tinker with the esc settings and hope there's an option to set up the braking to be slightly less aggressive (I can't do this until the weekend though because I have the castle link programming kit instead of the programming card but I don't have my laptop with me like an idiot lol) Thanks for reading- any advice is helpful

Great - thanks for the help, I'll check most of those things tomorrow but I probably won't be able to run it properly for a couple of months- exams to thank for that lol hopefully that'll get it sorted... If not it might be time for a new engine

The exhaust gasket is definitely tight- if there's a leak there its not because its loose at least. However, having looked at the silicone joiner it is a bit looser than it could be, but then if that was the problem why does it still prime when the engine is cooled? anyway, here is a picture of the engine setup- I assume this is the that you're referring to

It won't prime when it's hot, I cover the exhaust and pull the pull starter but the fuel just goes straight back into the tank rather than up to the engine

How can I test for and fix an air leak?

Really? I suppose it makes sense. Still the issue with not being able to start it again afterwards, any thoughts on that?

maybe, any ideas on why it might be cutting out when it flips upside down?

the break in procedure that comes in the manual is not exactly... standard

yeah its the same one as the st- for some reason if the car flips upside down for more than 5 seconds it cuts out within a minute and then you cant start the engine again until its cooled down- it wont prime at all, the fuel just goes straight out the tube and back into the fuel tank before I have time to even pull the pull start again :s To be honest though I've always struggled with the needle settings- it seems to need something completely different when you start it compared to when its warmed up a bit

still very stock at the moment- what upgraded shocks or any upgrades would people recommend?