tman4wdr

I think to use the Bullet 54t spur on the wr8 center diff would be very tricky, nearly impossible for a few reasons. If the drilled holes were off even the slightest bit, it would be a wobbly gear impossible to mesh. Plus there's a channel that the gasket rides in. And the wr8 spur has a small hole to support the diff output. Maybe a machine shop could do it, I know I can't. I believe Integy offers steel spur gears of varying tooth counts for the wr8 that would be a direct fit. The stock bullet motor mount with a wr8 center diff is limited in gearing options because the slots in the motor mount do not allow the motor to get close enough to the smaller 46t spur. I think the smallest pinion that can be used this way is a 11-12t (correct me if wrong, it's been awhile since I did it). The slots on the motor mount could be elongated if a drill/dremel is available which would allow smaller pinions to be used. But.... use the wr8 center diff and wr8 motor mount, you can gear it with smaller than 12t pinions due to it's cam-style design. This was what I used and recommend if switching to the wr8 center diff. It makes mesh adjustment super easy and allows a much wider range of pinion gears.

@Paul Mc Toal Hi, the wr8 center diff will greatly improve the drivability of the Bullet. It also provides another tuning option because the fluid can be changed to thicker or thinner. Thicker for wheelies, thinner for better cornering/turning/handling. It also has a side effect of being easier on the drivetrain. I was very happy with the wr8 center diff and I highly recommend it, bolts right in too. Only small problem of the wr8 has a 46t spur vs the bullet 54t, might have to use lower pinion and/or wr8 motor mount. Edit: Wouldn't let me quote Paul for some reason.

cvd's won't pop out on this bad boy but I bet you're right that the stock dogbones would have, especially with the generous travel of Emaxx shocks. My 35t brushed motor is Really Too Slow (thinking 8-9mph)... I'm going to use a 17.5t/~2000kv sensored 540 combo. It should scoot pretty good even on 2s and have the low speed torque I need. I did a little build thread for this on URC forums ("stadium trucks and 1/10 buggies" section) "HPI Bullet, My slow-poke conversion" if anyone wants to see a slow ass Bullet,lol. Running video should be up by Monday, if I can convince the camera woman Anyone know, can you embed youtube videos here on MSUK?

Hey guys. I just changed my Bullet from a 3s truggy... To a low power, 35t brushed, monster trail vehicle! Top speed: 10 mph! Now my 3 yr old son can drive this and not shatter it into pieces. Plus it can climb rocks and logs with ease. My Bullet has been great in all of it's forms and I've had very few problems.

I ordered twice from Asiatees, first order took 5 days to US, second order was ~1.5 weeks.

Me too, dove (back) in after a 15 year break. Brushless/lipo drew me back about a year and half ago and I've been addicted ever since. Brought my wife and 3 1/2 yr old with me too. It's a blast when you get to do it with your son. Like being a kid again! I built my boy a Son Uva Digger and he runs that into everything,lol. There's a great Bullet thread over on URC forums in the "Stadium trucks and 1/10 buggies" section. I've read a few guys building up Apache C1's with D8T suspension running 5,6s. I think they call them a C1 Smash....awesome looking rigs there...like the ultimate basher. Anyway, I have the same name over at URC if you ever stop by. Best luck with your Bullet, and I'd like to hear how it finishes up.

Hmmm, yeah man, I see what you mean. No need to have expensive brushless systems just laying around. Nice rc collection btw! I think that the flux reload/shot would do ok in savage xs...it would be a downgrade from vapor/vector, but on 2s it would still rock pretty good and 3s would be off the chart. The xs is a little lighter than Bullet? If so, it would certainly be under less strain. The vapor esc in the Bullet would do fine with 2s but 3s is pushing it...just like the reload. I mean, this all depends on driving style, terrain, etc. When I did my Bullet esc/motor upgrade I went for a combo that would handle 3s exclusively. I went with Hobbywing wpsc8 and Gforce 36x60mm/3200kv. They're both fine with 3s even with 15/46 gears,lol. To get more power and more reliability especially for 3s, I would first go to a true 540 motor, +- 4000kv that can handle 3s. It will dissipate heat better and be under less strain and also you should be able to stay with 10-12 + pinion even with 46 spur. The reload esc should be ok with that (<140F)...if not it should be swapped out for an 80 amp + esc. If you end up with reload/shot collecting dust, it's a wicked combo in a 1/10 stadium truck or buggy. I had it in my Bandit and bl Evader, it was awesome in both of those lighter rc's.

Yeah man, 8t pinion would help for sure. Fan/heatsink for motor....or a true 540/550 motor. Bigger motors help dissipate heat better and power the Bullet with less strain. Couple guys use this.... http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/brushless-motors/inrunner-car/4-pole-inrunner/gforce-3650sl-inrunner-kv4300.html On 3s only, I use this 550/3200kv motor... http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/brushless-motors/inrunner-car/4-pole-inrunner/gforce-3660-4-pole-inrunner-kv3200.html For 2s the 4000kv 36x60 would be much better I don't know if you're looking to change out your motor, it's just that the Flux Shot motor can be strained with tall gearing in the heavy Bullet. Those are good budget options above...and the 550's have a 5mm output shaft which opens up many possibilities for mod1 pinions. But to run the 550 should require a more powerful esc, 540 would still be fine. I have used my Flux shot motor in 2wd Evader and Bandit, it's awesome in those light vehicles!

These are the ones I bought, they are from a chop-shop that disassembles rc's and sells all the parts separately. This one is in the US, Dollarhobbyz. http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/traxxas/e-maxx/traxxas-1-10-e-maxx-shocks.html If you're in the UK, there may be one like Dollarhobbyz but I don't know the name. Maybe someone else could help you find one near you. All I did to attach them was swap out the bottom balls (take the ones from bullet's shocks and put them in the Traxxas ones). Then the top has to have some spacers to get the angle/spacing right, you can't use that cone spacer with them so you'll have to use ~10mm's worth or less. The end result is really good---they're stiffer (good for landing high jumps)--but can be tuned just right for your purpose. One guy on the forum used the Traxxas aluminum "big bore" shocks for the Emaxx and he really likes them. If you can get either set for a good price, I'd do it. And if you do, I can help you with a good shock setup that really makes the Bullet handle well.

Your truck looks great with the Traxxas wheels/tires! If you smash up your stock body, Stampede 2wd/4wd bodies fit great. A few of us on URC forums are using E-Maxx shocks with a bit of modification (not much). Anyway, sounds like you have it covered, happy bashing.

No prob, always happy to help a fellow bullet basher if I can! The wr8 center diff is an awesome mod for the bullet...really saves the drivetrain and makes the bullet handle better. Anyaway, throw up some pics of your rig when you get everything sorted, Good luck!

You'll have much more top speed with the wr8 spur. 8 teeth is a big jump for mod1 gears. Watch your temps and gear accordingly. For most people 10t (stock) should be ok, if not go to 8. I suppose shims behind the small bevel gear could work the same as the way I do it. The end result should feel slightly "crunchy"...you can feel the individual teeth engage while you spin the input shaft (with diff out of the truck and placed in the gear case, this will give you the best feel of the mesh) but never binding in any way. You could even try shimming both, up to you. I use Photobucket to get my pics up here. You just sign up for an account, then upload pics there, then copy the link and add it to your post. It will appear when you post your message. Hope that helps.

Differential shimming is when you take 12x15x.2mm shims and install them over the outdrives, up against the bearing, on the bevel gear side of the diff. It makes the gears mesh more tightly and allows more tooth contact so that the force is spread over the entire tooth as opposed to just the edge or half. Proper shimming will drastically strengthen your diffs. Shimming your diff is not an exact science. It is something you'll have to feel. You don't want the gear mesh too tight or too loose. When you've added just the right amount of shims, the gear mesh will feel a little "crunchy"....in other words you'll feel each individual tooth engaging but not binding in any way. I think most Bullets come with 1 shim on the bevel gear side. You should add probably 1 or 2 more and then put the diff back in the case and spin the input shaft by hand. Add or subtract shims based on what you feel. I took this pic awhile back when I had my truck apart. It shows 3, .2mm shims that I use currently in my rear diff. The shims I use are Ofna #38254 but any 12x15x0.2mm shim will suffice. If you check youtube there should be videos that break down exactly what to do. If not, I can try to detail the process a little better. It is worth it.

The perfect wheel replacement for Bullet is something lighter. The heavy weight of the wheels/tyres on the Bullet is what helps break your 40t bevel gear so much. I switched to 2.2" wheels (with Front offset for Traxxas Rustler/Stampede) and I mounted 2.2" Badlands on them. I had to use wr8 12mm hexes also. I estimate they are half the weight of stock tires and my diffs have lasted for over a year now. Have you shimmed your diffs? If not, doing that will also prolong your diff life, big time! I can't comment on alloy diff cups/gearbox since I've never used them. I have a few pics in my gallery of my current Bullet setup, take a look and if you'd like to try switching to 2.2" wheels/tyres I can get you all of the part #'s for what works. If you decide to stick with bigger mt style tyres, shimming will be key. Hope this helps!

Shiny! Your paint job looks awesome too. My Bullet is shelved right now because it has too much play in the front end. I don't want to damage any other parts until I get more alloy bits to take up the slop. It's actually dangerous to drive right now, lol.