adefirestorm

Servos sold pending collection and payment Screws reserved

Hi everyone I have been away on holidays so only just got back, I replied TMaxxDave if anyone wants something please let me know.

Hi I have a bit clear out, so lets start, all prices are inc postage but buyer pays fees Hyper bag with 5 set of tyres ( 1 set is HPI Elements new but used wheels,1 x aka impact 50% life left, 1 x unbranded hard compound spikes, 2x worn but still good for tarmac)

That is first chassis that I have seen that is norrowed down on rear end that much , do you get more flex and grip from that? Or there is another benefit apart from weight?

Yes, that's a nice saving

Go over there and don't be shy ask guys who runs the kyosho cars for advice.

Is that astro turf? If it is should be good staring point, most of the time 5/5/3 works well for dirt and astro, good luck and enjoy,

In Google FAST905 should show you shim kit, you will have plenty, smaller inner hole ships to spaced the shoes and larger inner hole for the clutch bell plus spare clutch bell screws.

LEEB where you planing on using this car?

Well no don't look like it but with out seeing the pic is hard to say, the gap could be larger depends on wlywheel design, what you need is have little gap between the shoes and flywheel like 0.1 mm, some shoes will come machined for that and some won't and you would have to and tiny shim, then you put clutch bell and feel it if it spins once you tight the nut if there is any grinding lime the back of bell rubbing in shoes place little spacer between the flywheel but and inner clutch bell bearing until it stops, once you archive that then make sure there is no forward play between the front clutch bell bearing and screw if there is place shim there. Hope this helps Sorry for miss spelling bloody phone keyboard

I would look in to kyosho tk i3 setups most would say 5/5/3 front to back and I only use team associated oils. They bit pricey but good quality

Here a pic you can see gap between flywheel and clutch bell but you can't see shoes the gap depends on flywheel design etc.

Well it may well be fine but parts do ware,don't forget that, but it caused concern for you to post on here so only trying to help and give my opinion, the clutch shoes wants to touch the whole of the clutch bell and if you can see them between the clutch bell and flywheel then they don't only lets say 3/4 of the shoes touching the bell with out seeing the picture, also the shoes could be worn and making the part that you see wedge between the clutch and flywheel making harder for the engine to spins and can't idle

not normal to me clutch bell should be shimmed so there is no play

small gap is referred to about max 2 mm between flywheel and clutch bell, clutch bell should be shimmed so there is no play backwards and forwards, sound like the clutch is not shimmed correctly, also something happened that the clutch bell is moved forward that's why you can see the clutch shoe, it could be few things, shims, bearings, lose clutch bell, lose flywheel nut you need to take if off to have a look

Honest answer is the life delivers better overall performance, voltage delivery, longer life time and charge hold compare to nimh, but nimh has been used for long long time so there is nothing wrong just charge them bit more, it looks like you savox gone bad and I'm very surprised that the savox give up before the hpi one, if you looking for replacement you may want to consider Altrun brand if you only bashing, I'm sure some people run them in there cars but just not sure if is the exact same model that I listed, but looking at the spec at 6v 16kg torque and 0.15 sec speed very comparable to savox http://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-high-performance-race-servo-ultra-high-torque-/rc-car-products/371394

The best bet would be to charge your nimh pack and connect and see what's working and what not, also make sure you end points is set up correctly on servo so the servo is not trying to pull more then it should, also please confirm that when you plug savox to aa pack it does it work like the hpi or not?

Yeah don't try it with lipo, fully charged lipo will put out 8.4 v on servo that is only spec for 6v so they don't like it, in future the savox will work with life but not lipo, the good thing is plugin you hpi servo to battery you already did find out that the receiver is still working so is not the problem, most likely you damaged you savox servo due to high voltage as longest you have more the 4.8 v from 4x as battery you should be able to connect your savox servo and try that is well,

Also did you just plugged in 1 savox servo and the other was another brand? If yes does the other servo still work?

OK it could be that lipo got discharged to much and have cells damaged, it would be good to for you to read about lipos, is to much to explain right now, can you plug you nimh pack to receiver and see if anything is happening?

Well no don't buy nothing just yet, do you own mulitmiter by any chance so you could let us know the voltage. Also what did you plug for power source to your receiver? Nimh or lipo

As for the charger you need something that will charge lipo/life, glow plugs, nimh, nicad is just matter of swapping the wires and settings on charger, you can Google ac/dc imax b6, Absima CB-1P Charger is just a idea what you looking for, but make sure you get one that can get powered from wall socket and not just 12v power source.

First of all you got one battery that is nimh which is fine for the servos you got the other is lipo pushing to high voltage to receiver, lipo battery are o Only to be used in High voltage servos, you need to get the basic straight first, you having problem with car running away, 1st thing is make sure you have good power source to receiver and transmiter, return springs should help to bring the servo back to is natural position once you used the battery and forget to stop the car in time, most likely you discharged one of the pack so it dont pick the signal from receiver and you need to charge, charges get one that will do both and for good sake i hope you didnt run the lipo pack dry, you need to start replying on here so people can help you before you satrt spending money otherwise is going to get very expensive very quickly,

Don't forget guys this chap just started so as we all know slowly you build your equipment up, getting life rx pack means getting another charger to charge it up, life battery are great, light and longer run times and stores voltage lot better compare to nimh, nimh if left unused for long time will discharge or lose some of it is power, if is for bashing there is nothing wrong with nimh

smooth out the voltage to the receiver, I run is well one from bad experience when using old spektrum dx3 long time ago, technology has moved on but for some reason I still like to have one, it plugs in to your spare channel on receiver http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=25493